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Thread: How to mitre cut 12/4 mahogany

  1. #16
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    Sep 2007
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    Upstate NY
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    Bandsaw?
    Do it your method and clean it up with a edge sander?
    Post here asking if anyone has a 12" saw?

  2. #17
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    W/o a handplane I would cut as deep as possible on your TS, finish the cut proud with a handsaw, then file and sandpaper referencing off the TS cut. You could do it with a router mounted on a base that references off the TS cut, too, but there's a lot more chance of tearout trying that; none if you do it manually.

    John

  3. #18
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    Jan 2017
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    Marina del Rey, Ca
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    Best approach would be to put enough of a radius on the finished joint's corner, instead of a dangerously sharp corner. That way you can simply cutoff the small portion left by your table saw.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  4. #19
    That would ruin the waterfall with a band of endgrain.

  5. #20
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    Jan 2007
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    Davis, CA
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    I agree with Prashun. One side of blade, flip piece, and run through other side of blade.

  6. #21
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    Apr 2008
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    Edmonton, Canada
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    I would do as you said your self: deep cut with table saw, cut the rest (proud) with a hand saw, jig up a small router and use a flush trim bit from the other side to make it flush with the table saw cut surface.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin L. Waldron View Post
    Use a sled on the table saw....... and cut with the blade straight up..... and material angled at 45%.......
    My vote. Sled.
    Where did I put that?

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Price View Post
    My vote. Sled.
    if the blade doesn't have enough depth, how would a sled make much of a difference? the cross-section of the cut is simply more than half (minus arbor) radius of the blade, so it doesn't matter which one is tilted. Difference will be very small.
    Last edited by mreza Salav; 06-01-2018 at 1:03 AM.

  9. #24
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    Nov 2006
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    NE Ohio
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    I'd just build a tall miter box & cut the whole thing by hand. It might need some final cleanup, which with the addition of a tall fence extension on the jointer's fence would be a simple quick way to do it.
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  10. #25
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  11. #26
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    Depending on the trunion mechanism often the cut depth is less when the blade is tilted to 45 degrees- more of the blade is below the table.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin L. Waldron View Post
    Use a sled on the table saw....... and cut with the blade straight up..... and material angled at 45%.......
    This gets my vote.
    You're going to end up making some type of jig to do this. It's actually a jig you should have anyway.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  13. #28
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    Jun 2014
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    Western PA
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    Without a handplane or a few other basic tools, i have to suggest the best method might be begging/paying someone local to do it. For example, for $20 id make that cut on my slider for you and send you on your way 5-10 mins later with a perfect joint.

  14. #29
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    Stick a piece of newspaper between the cauls and the pieces of wood in that video & use Elmer's School glue and removing the cauls becomes a minor task instead of a sanding mess.
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Cutler View Post
    This gets my vote.
    You're going to end up making some type of jig to do this. It's actually a jig you should have anyway.
    How exactly would you make that jig?

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