How to mitre cut 12/4 mahogany

[John Vietmeyer]

What saw or technique would you use to cut a mitre in 12/4 mahogany (measures 2 3/4”) finished? My 10” table saw at a 45 Can only get through 2.5”. I’ve tried hand sawing the remaining and using a router on a jig but have not found a perfect solution. I need clean cuts so the 45s come together cleanly at the joins.

I promised my fiancé I’d build her a console table with waterfall edge and this cut has me stumped.

[Ben Bowie]

I'd take a hand plane to it and keep checking for 45 degrees every few shavings.

[Brian Holcombe]

I have a chop saw setup accurately and if need be, tune by hand with hand planes.

[Prashun Patel]

Do as you did: cut the majority on the table saw. Then use a handsaw to cut the remainder, proud. Finally tune with a jack plane. Skew it so that the sole references the table sawn surface. You will be able to shoot the hand sawn portion perfectly this way.

[glenn bradley]

I would clean up the end with a 12 inch disc sander .

[Frank Drew]

John

You can mount 12" blades on some 10" saws -- the blade can't be lowered completely below the table but that's not a problem if all you use it for is deep cuts. You might need to make a new throat plate and, of course, your crosscut/miter jig has to be dead on.

[John Vietmeyer]

Thanks for the inputs! Right now I’m limited to router and a few entry level saws (table, jig, mitre). Anyone have luck using a router jig to do this?

[johnny means]

I would cut as deep as I could, then finish up with a Japanese handsaw.

[Robert Engel]

Maybe a file?

I don't know how you could use a router without getting tear out trying to do this.

BTDT -- trying to do a task with the wrong tools.....almost always ends up in frustration and maybe ruining a project.

IMO the necessary tools to do this job well are a hand saw and a hand plane.

A Japanese saw will be best choice here due to pull stroke as well as #4 handplane. Woodcraft carries some decent quality. I'm sure your fiancee will be impressed you spent a few bucks on tools to do a nice job for her. Another plus it will "prime the pump" for your future tool purchases LOL.

[Brian Holcombe]

The hand plane is easy here, you have a big reference surface since you're working with 2-3/4" thick material. Just tune until the joints seat at 90. Be careful about going over the sides with a hand plane, it can be disastrous if they're not insanely sharp or if the wood has any runout at all. I much prefer to plane toward center, then take a stroke and knock the center down.

With the sides already apart I can't see where a flush cut saw is going to do much good.

Just an FYI but if you want continuous grain on the outside edge then you're going to have to put a new miter on the inside of the off cut. That way it breaks like a hinge, rather than being flipped around on the legs.

[Edwin Santos]

With the sides already apart I can't see where a flush cut saw is going to do much good.

Hi Brian,
Because there is a good reference surface, I could see using one of the flexible Japanese flush cut saws to remove the ledge that needs to be cleaned up. In fact, rather than sawing totally flush, I might put 2-3 pieces of masking tape on the side of the flush cut saw to leave a tiny bit of material to then take off with a sharp block plane. This allows the ability to sneak up on the final surface. A very flat sanding block with adhered sandpaper would work in lieu of the plane too.
Your warning about breakout going over the sides is very valid.

[Kevin L. Waldron]

Use a sled on the table saw....... and cut with the blade straight up..... and material angled at 45%.......

[John Redford]

Perhaps you couls sneak up on it with a circular hand saw.

[Steve Jenkins]

If you’re anywhere near Dallas I could throw it up on my slider and be done in a couple minutes

[Wade Lippman]

Bandsaw?
Do it your method and clean it up with a edge sander?
Post here asking if anyone has a 12" saw?