Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 44

Thread: unloading a big bandsaw

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Crystal Lake, IL
    Posts
    577
    Two of the best shop accessories I own are my pallet jack and my 2 ton shop hoist. I can lift and move all but the seriously heavy machines, and a pallet jack makes every machine mobile without spending the money for a mobile base for each machine.

    $80 for the hoist, and $50 for the pallet jack.

    Here's how I unloaded a 2500 lb. 36" Northfield bandsaw.....3 times the weight of the Powermatic.



    As I get older, I try to learn how to work smarter. If you don't have the space for the hoist (they fold up pretty tightly into a small vertical package roughly 24" X 24" floor space) most rental places will rent one for about $25 a day.

    Every machine has a center balancing point, where it becomes much easier to sling a machine, and slowly and carefully stand it up. Also, I recommend moving the machine with the table off, especially if you're laying it down. The weakest link on all bandsaws are their table trunnions, and the most often broken part I find when restoring older machines. Don't lay the machine down on the table, as the first bump in the road will likely snap the trunnions. Been there, done that.
    Jeff

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,997
    This plan bombed out. Seller had no help to tip saw onto its back. After I had conformed it would be loaded on it's back. Too heavy and tall to be upright in a little ford ranger.
    Do people think it could be safely hauled upright in a full size pickup? Seems like the center of gravity would be too high and make it tippy. Not a good combination to be driving in southern California traffic. Or the high desert winds either.
    Bill D

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    LA & SC neither one is Cali
    Posts
    9,447
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    This plan bombed out. Seller had no help to tip saw onto its back. After I had conformed it would be loaded on it's back. Too heavy and tall to be upright in a little ford ranger.
    Do people think it could be safely hauled upright in a full size pickup? Seems like the center of gravity would be too high and make it tippy. Not a good combination to be driving in southern California traffic. Or the high desert winds either.
    Bill D
    My approach is to rent a Uhaul and strap them to an appliance truck and wheel them up the low ramp and strap it to the walls of the truck sitting upright then wheel it down. It adds cost but requires no lifting. That said that saw has a large base (much larger than the average modern steel bandsaw) and is not remotely as tippy as new saws. Strapped down well and it ain't going anywhere.

    The only issue is IF you rent a truck make sure the height of the one you rent will allow the saw in upright if that is the plan. I will pay extra money to reduce the heartburn and anxiety. Others look at it differently.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,873
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    This plan bombed out. Seller had no help to tip saw onto its back. After I had conformed it would be loaded on it's back. Too heavy and tall to be upright in a little ford ranger.
    Do people think it could be safely hauled upright in a full size pickup? Seems like the center of gravity would be too high and make it tippy. Not a good combination to be driving in southern California traffic. Or the high desert winds either.
    Bill D
    I personally feel that transporting a bandsaw on its spine is a good move if the structure supports it. These are "top-heavy" tools and it would be safer lying down. And I also feel it's easier to unload that way, too...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Medina Ohio
    Posts
    4,534
    I think I would build a sled that is just a tad shorter then the saw in the back of the truck. Bolt the saw down to it with the base just off the sled. Slide the whole thing off and let it sit on the ground and then stand it all the way up

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,530
    Did you see my and Van’s suggestion of using a trailer?

  7. #22
    I'm just surprised you and the seller we're not able to lay down the bandsaw using the forklift. At least that's what I figured from the get go when you mentioned seller has a forklift.

    The way I see it is to securely strap top of bandsaw to the lift above the saw. Back the forklift to pull on upper saw to tilt it. And gently lower lift while backing the forklift. Then it's a matter of getting the bandsaw onto the Ranger using the forklift. One forklift driver and one nervous Ranger driver could do it.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,997
    If I rented a full size pickup do you think it would be safe to haul it upright. I would remove the table first. I have seen weights of 950-1200 pounds. How much work is it to remove the top wheel? Not sure if it is cast iron or aluminum. I believe for most bandsaws. the center of gravity is just below the bottom of the table. So a little less then half way up.
    The guy relisted the saw at just less then 3 times the agreed on price. No wonder he did not want to try to hard to load it on my truck.
    Bill D
    Bill D.
    Last edited by Bill Dufour; 06-12-2018 at 10:22 PM.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    9,039
    With a full sized pickup, it should be no trouble to lay it on its spine. I see no advantage to carrying it upright. If you look at the picture I posted in post #13 in this thread, I nosed the truck up to a utility pole behind Johnny's shop, and pulled it right into the truck with the rope puller. I borrowed a stepladder to tie the rope high enough around the pole. The mattress is just a cheap foam one I use for moving stuff. The tarp is wrapped around the mattress to make it slicker. I don't remember using the aluminum floor jack, but carried it just in case. I did take the table off before it was even rolled over to the truck. The tailgate was taken off, before I left home, because I didn't want to bend it. That's a 24" Centauro, with cast iron wheels, and I had little trouble loading it by myself.

    I carried some 2x4's to make what was needed to keep the bandsaw from tipping side to side during the ride back, but can't remember the details about how I did that.

    That was about 300 miles from home, and the bandsaw wheel alignment was still perfect when we stood it back up in the shop.
    Last edited by Tom M King; 06-12-2018 at 5:40 PM.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    LA & SC neither one is Cali
    Posts
    9,447
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    If I rented a full size pickup do you think it would be safe to haul it upright. I would remove the table first. I have seen weights of 950-1200 pounds. How much work is it to remove the top wheel? Not sure if it is cast iron or aluminum. I believe for most bandsaws. the center of gravity is just below the bottom of the table. So a little less then half way up.
    The guy relisted the saw at just less then 3 times the agreed on price. No owner he did not want to try to hard to load it on my truck.
    Bill D
    Bill D.
    As I mentioned before these saws have a lower than usual COG, this is due to the aluminum upper wheel and the large steel base, this is also helped on the metal cutting saw by the weight of the transmission (which is significant) being well under the table.

    While if it is strapped down properly you will have no issues moving it upright in a truck but I would only do that if it is being forklift loaded and I had plenty of help (or a fork lift) on your end to unload. As I said I usually rent a Uhaul since I find a lot less grunt is needed to strap it to an appliance truck and roll it up and down the low ramp.

    If you keep up with the paralysis via analysis you are likely to lose the machine. (A variation of rule number 5 of OWWM) I don't know the price you were offered but at this point if the price is still good I would do whatever it took to get it out of his shop ASAP. The PM 81/87 tends to be overpriced compared to the Delta and Yates equivalents and a metal worker will likely snap up an 87 if it sits too long.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Seattle Wa
    Posts
    162
    Here is my opinion.
    Rent a flatbed trailer, your ranger pu is big enough. I have moved a lot of equipment including some big bandsaws. If you have access to a forklift there’s no reason not to transport it standing up. A good size leaver along with dunnage will get you to the point that the forks for the forklift will go underneath and pick it straight up. Bandsaws are only moderately top-heavy good quality ratchet straps will secure the bandsaw more than adequately. In the picture is a 32 inch bandsaw and 18 inch bandsaw, a 10 foot stroke sander and the cabinets Saw. These were all transported on a flatbed trailer standing up. One was transported from Denver to Seattle without issue. In addition this is the second floor of the shop, these were forklifted up 10 feet. Four or 5 3/4 inch pieces of black pipe where used to roll them into position without difficulty.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Crystal Lake, IL
    Posts
    577
    As has been stated a hundred times already, a trailer is the way to haul any big, heavy machinery. Lower to the ground for loading and unloading, and a lot easier to have multiple locations for securing ratcheting straps, chains and binders, etc.....to secure the load properly.

    I hauled my 2750 lb. Yates American just under 1000 miles with no incident, and (very unfortunately to me) through 40 to 50 mph wind gusts the day I did the pickup. Very untimely bad luck for me, but I still made it safely.



    As you can see, I duct tape everything that is not bolted shut on the machine, like doors, electrical starter covers, etc.....and remove anything that can rattle loose, like blade guides, service doors, etc......I have learned this lesson the hard way, by getting home with machines from long hauls with parts missing that I knew were present at the beginning of the journey.
    Jeff

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,406
    SAM_1886.jpg Don't risk a valuable machine to save a few dollars hire someone with the right equipment.
    Last edited by Mark Hennebury; 06-13-2018 at 11:35 PM.

  14. #29
    you moved the bandsaw that way with a lift truck under it??? I moved a 36 Wadkin six hour drive. took the top section off lay both down flat. I didnt need a big sail behind my car but more so I just didnt want a 8 foot tall bandsaw standing up on a car trailer. Owner was pissed, he was paid not his problem, worked excellent assembled here when back with a skid steer to lift the top section and table. I could tarp it easily as well. I overstrap everythinng and last several had chains as well to the back of the trailer over and above the straps. As far s the wind ive borrowed some trailers that have the big tall fold down tail gates even those are horrible in wind drag on a day with no wind.
    Last edited by Warren Lake; 06-13-2018 at 10:02 PM.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Crystal Lake, IL
    Posts
    577
    I keep my ramps off my trailer unless I'm hauling my skidloader. My trailer (shown) is 15,400 gvwr, and trails like a dream.

    The pallet jack under it was there just for the ride. The bandsaw is sitting up on a pallet I built for it, and the pallet jack is tucked underneath, and strapped, as shown, to the bandsaw. I do this all the time, and always take my pallet jack with to maneuver a heavy machine over the axles for a balanced load.

    You can't see in the photo, because you're looking at the back of the saw, but I removed the upper Snowflake door, and duct taped the lower doors all the way around so they could not move at all. Their door pins were seized when I got it. I knew I was doing a complete teardown restoration to this saw, so it was all coming apart anyway.

    Jeff

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •