Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234
Results 46 to 59 of 59

Thread: Upgrade table saw or get a jointer

  1. #46
    Not much of a poster but I had to chime in here. I don't really understand the question. OP has a serviceable tablesaw but no jointer. Get a jointer. How do you start a project without a flat board? Sure you do the sled in the planer, but that's pretty time consuming and you still need to work out some way to edge joint if you're gonna glue up panels. Face and edge jointing are foundational steps that ensure the rest of the project turns out well. If his budget is 2-3k, he can get a new grizzly 8" jointer AND grizzly cabinet saw for less that 3k. Forgo the helical head and keep the price down. 2 cents.

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
    Posts
    1,934
    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Smith View Post
    ...How do you start a project without a flat board?...
    Start with a flat board by buying surfaced lumber. Edge joint with a track saw, table saw, router/table. A thickness planer is much more important, if you do any resawing.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  3. #48
    The OP is gone, but during discussion he stated he could not make the fence on the tablesaw be repeatedly square and was considering replacing the fence.
    Thats when the thread exploded.

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    854
    Depending on your taste in tools, you could get a nice table saw and an 8 inch jointer from Grizzly for 3k

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    859
    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    Start with a flat board by buying surfaced lumber. Edge joint with a track saw, table saw, router/table. A thickness planer is much more important, if you do any resawing.
    From what I've read lots of times even surfaced wood needs to be edge jointed and face jointed. You could work around that to some degree with a planer but you end up sending more of your wood into the dust collector.

    My recommendation has changed. I like the idea of getting a Grizzly table saw and jointer. Sell the Rigid and that should increase his budget some.
    Marshall
    ---------------------------
    A Stickley fan boy.

  6. #51
    True. I may be biased because I sell rough sawn lumber to woodworkers but buying surfaced lumber doesn't always work out. That surfaced board may have sat around for a while giving it plenty time to move again. Also, you have to know a little about who/how it was surfaced. Some places may just run it through the planer twice. That ain't a flat board. Bigger operations may have a strait-o-plane or equal which does face joint and plane at the same time.

    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    Start with a flat board by buying surfaced lumber. Edge joint with a track saw, table saw, router/table. A thickness planer is much more important, if you do any resawing.

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
    Posts
    1,934
    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Smith View Post
    ...That surfaced board may have sat around for a while giving it plenty time to move again. Also, you have to know a little about who/how it was surfaced...
    I visually inspect each piece of lumber I buy. It is SO simple to get good, flat lumber. And SO simple to straighten an edge. As a professional woodworker I went for many years without a jointer. It is a very easy workaround.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Flower mound, Tx
    Posts
    514
    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    I visually inspect each piece of lumber I buy. It is SO simple to get good, flat lumber. And SO simple to straighten an edge. As a professional woodworker I went for many years without a jointer. It is a very easy workaround.
    Hmmmmmm?
    I don’t know how a ANY professional woodworker could survive without a jointer. At least 50% of the wood I buy is purchased sight unseen. Try buying Koa, Gaboon Ebony, highly figured Maple or Claro Walnut from your local hardwood supplier. Most lumber in this class will need need to be milled after purchase.

    Let’s face it, Woodworking is an expensive hobby or occupation. Like most things in life, you have to pay to play.
    My advice to ANY woodworker, don’t “cheap” the essentials.

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Northern Oregon
    Posts
    1,820
    Quote Originally Posted by John Sincerbeaux View Post
    Hmmmmmm?
    I don’t know how a ANY professional woodworker could survive without a jointer. At least 50% of the wood I buy is purchased sight unseen. Try buying Koa, Gaboon Ebony, highly figured Maple or Claro Walnut from your local hardwood supplier. Most lumber in this class will need need to be milled after purchase.

    Let’s face it, Woodworking is an expensive hobby or occupation. Like most things in life, you have to pay to play.
    My advice to ANY woodworker, don’t “cheap” the essentials.



    I was a professional woodworker for a long time. I made mostly office furniture, store fixtures and some cabinets. My shop was in a big city and my lumber wholesalers offered S3S lumber for a slight up charge. It was way cheaper to pay them to do it than use my jointer.

    When you have to guarantee your work, kiln dried graded hardwood from a supplier that delivers was a better choice. It was for me. I never used my jointer and rarely the planer after I got into S3S lumber. Time is money and S3S lumber was a more efficient choice. It was "sight unseen" but if it wasn't straight and flat or within grade it got sent back to the yard for credit. I rarely if ever sent any back.
    "Whether you think you can, or you think you can’t - you’re right."
    - Henry Ford

  10. #55
    Quote Originally Posted by John Sincerbeaux View Post
    My advice to ANY woodworker, don’t “cheap” the essentials.
    I can't agree more with this even woodworking is not my day time job.

    One of the essentials in my shop is the tablesaw and the SawStop is my personal after using its big brothers for over a decade. I won't recommend any other cabinet saws to anyone whose requirement is professional quality cuts - 100% of the time.

    I had used jointers ftom 6" up to 12" for years and 9 out of 10 other jointer users would not have the jointer skills like minea including some of you who recommend a jointer purchase. 4 out of 5 jointer users I know do not know how to flatten a twisted board longer that 6 feet. Cups...piece of cake but not a 8 feet long twisted stock. So a jointer is pretty useless to many unless you actually have the skills. But with a thickness planer, you need a simple sled and simple techniques to flatten a board, twisted or not.

    You can flatten one side of a board with a jointer but not both and you still need a thickness planer.

    The OP already has a thickness planer and has a saw that he is not happy with. Adding a new fence at 1/3 of the cost of the saw is not a wise move and adding a jointer to his shop is unnecessary. I work with mostly rough lumber and as I said, everything is done on the thickness planer after the jointer was sold.

    I also agree s4s lumber is expensive and limit your options but it is doable if you do projects on that basis, but I wouldn't go that path.

    Simon

  11. #56
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon MacGowen View Post
    I can't agree more with this even woodworking is not my day time job.

    One of the essentials in my shop is the tablesaw and the SawStop is my personal after using its big brothers for over a decade. I won't recommend any other cabinet saws to anyone whose requirement is professional quality cuts - 100% of the time.

    I had used jointers ftom 6" up to 12" for years and 9 out of 10 other jointer users would not have the jointer skills like minea including some of you who recommend a jointer purchase. 4 out of 5 jointer users I know do not know how to flatten a twisted board longer that 6 feet. Cups...piece of cake but not a 8 feet long twisted stock. So a jointer is pretty useless to many unless you actually have the skills. But with a thickness planer, you need a simple sled and simple techniques to flatten a board, twisted or not.

    You can flatten one side of a board with a jointer but not both and you still need a thickness planer.

    The OP already has a thickness planer and has a saw that he is not happy with. Adding a new fence at 1/3 of the cost of the saw is not a wise move and adding a jointer to his shop is unnecessary. I work with mostly rough lumber and as I said, everything is done on the thickness planer after the jointer was sold.

    I also agree s4s lumber is expensive and limit your options but it is doable if you do projects on that basis, but I wouldn't go that path.

    Simon
    I'm still waiting to hear how a 1.75hp SawStop (that I own) results in better or more accurate cuts than a properly tuned $800 R4512 + Delta t3 fence setup (which I used to own).

  12. #57
    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Marty View Post
    I'm still waiting to hear how a 1.75hp SawStop (that I own) results in better or more accurate cuts than a properly tuned $800 R4512 + Delta t3 fence setup (which I used to own).
    Maybe you should join this person.

    IMG_1325.JPG

  13. #58
    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Marty View Post
    I'm still waiting to hear how a 1.75hp SawStop (that I own) results in better or more accurate cuts than a properly tuned $800 R4512 + Delta t3 fence setup (which I used to own).
    Sorry to hear that your $2500 (?) investment has been a disappointment. You should consider selling PCS and switch back to an "upgraded" Ridgid. I have never come across any SS cabinet saw owners in my circle who wanted to go back to their or any other cabinet saws, let alone a Ridgid.

    Simon

  14. #59
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon MacGowen View Post
    Sorry to hear that your $2500 (?) investment has been a disappointment. You should consider selling PCS and switch back to an "upgraded" Ridgid. I have never come across any SS cabinet saw owners in my circle who wanted to go back to their or any other cabinet saws, let alone a Ridgid.

    Simon
    I'm very happy with my SawStop. I bought it for safety and I love the feeling of safety it gives me. Everything feels more robust and nicer. Just like my fancy sedan with leather seating and 8 airbags. The SawStop doesn't make me a better woodworker.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •