Track saw to joint an edge

[Jim Dwight]

Yes, a track saw is a good way to get a nice surface for glue-up. I do not hand plane after doing this and get results that are plenty good enough for me. If my hand plane skills and hand plane bench were better I might plane the surface. But unless you are really good with a handplane (and I am not) you are as likely to make it worse as you are to make it better. I don't like the surface from my Freud ripping blade, however, as well as the 48 tooth blade my saw came with. I think the higher count blade will make this cut. I've trimmed a softwood exterior door with mine and it didn't seem to be straining.

[Bill McNiel]

I use my Tracksaw to create glue ready joints frequently without any further jointing. I clamp the two boards to be joined together on my bench and run the saw down the joint line. This eliminates any issues with blade perpendicularity, the blade can be at any angle and the joint will perfectly match. The bench top becomes the reference surface. Easy-Peasy.

[Jim Dwight]

A jointer CAN produce a nice square edge with a smooth face. It can also make a board less than straight. A good operator can make a slightly concave edge ideal for glueup. But a track saw requires less skill to operate successfully. The edge is not quite as smooth but it is difficult to get an edge that is not straight and square. But you won't get a concave edge. For me, the edge is acceptably smooth and my glueups do not seem to suffer any.

[Dale Murray]

I used a Makita track saw with a Festool 12 tooth blade to straighten 8/4 hard maple. It cut like butter.

[glenn bradley]

There are many operations where taking the tool to the material works better than the other way around. Long, wide or heavy materials mostly benefit from this. As mentioned, the quality of your result will be directly proportional to the quality of your reference surface. The tool will follow the material or the guide/rail that is fastened thereto. This is a big benefit for things like dados with a router as the small router base follows the irregularity of things like plywood and yields a more consistent depth. In the case of jointing, you are trying to create a reference edge or at least a true one.

[William M Johnson]

I don’t know about other brands but the Festool TS55 will absolutely produce a jointed edge as good as any jointer. FYI I own but don’t use an American made Powermattic jointer and a LN bevel up jointer. The TS55 is my first choice. I built a walnut table for my daughter out of scraps. All jointing was done with either the TS55 or the Kapex. There are probably 35 pieces in the top and there are no gaps.

A couple of tricks

1. Don’t use a rip blade. Seems counterintuitive it cuts faster but it leaves too many tool marks
2. Use the standard blade and just go slow.
3. The base must be set up perpendicular to the blade. Don’t trust the stop or bevel gauge.

Bill

[andy bessette]

WMJ--good post.

Add:
4--Adjust the cams to minimize side play.

[Josh Kocher]

On a perfectly flat board - ie.face jointed - it will give a good result.

[Ross Manning]

I use my Tracksaw to create glue ready joints frequently without any further jointing. I clamp the two boards to be joined together on my bench and run the saw down the joint line. This eliminates any issues with blade perpendicularity, the blade can be at any angle and the joint will perfectly match. The bench top becomes the reference surface. Easy-Peasy.

This!!

I use the same technique & it works a treat.

[Andrew Hughes]

A proper woodshop should have a jointer. Odd shaped pieces or small stuff sometimes need a flat surface to create a new reference. The foundation of fine woodworking and I'm not taking about the magazine.
So might as well get one and learn to use it before the craft gets boring.