Cool I just did the bearings on mine. I bored a hole for the eccentric shaft in a hunk of aluminum as a holder and pressed them on with an arbor press.
Contributor
Cool I just did the bearings on mine. I bored a hole for the eccentric shaft in a hunk of aluminum as a holder and pressed them on with an arbor press.
Member
Martin used a similar bearing system for the slider on their T17 saws. It was a very simple deal to swap them out as I recall. Simple , inexpensive sealed bearings I got from Accurate Bearing as I recall. Martin used 8 or 12 of them as I recall.
Probably around $8.00 each.
My saw came with a couple of the bearings with cracked outer races?!
Adjusting the table was another matter entirely.
[OP]
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thanks, I have a press but the end of the shaft this presses onto is not cut square which is a bit bizarre so it would sit caulked. I think ill file them all square not sure if they are all the same but realized I have both wood and metal vises and few heavy metal vises sure they would do this very easily. I can see small burrs and allen screw damage the usual so will clean all of that stuff up put bevels on things.
Someone had hammered on one bearing already and bent the metal cover. Peter your saw didnt come new with bearings damaged did it?
All the bearings work few have a bit of play in them and you can feel the bearings working but even with that slides very nciely. Im thinking set up will be some time then the previous owner had loosed the top before i got there to pick it up so likely that is disturbed as well and will be the starting point for set up since the main fence is not adjustable the top will have to be adjusted in relation to the blade. Arbor is dirty as well and will have to clean it and check it.
Do I want bearings with Rubber shields or metal? sales guy says they sell both and he has seen dust in both of them.
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I'd guess rubber seals? Metal is more of a shield than a seal, I think?
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Rubber seals have more drag than shielded. Rubber is probably the better choice here though.Originally Posted by Martin Wasner
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Contact seals are what you want for a rolling table. Dave
[OP]
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What are contact seals? The rubber ones?
Put some time in cleaning up the collars around the blade washers and nut, rust gone now. Dial on the inside only blade collar showed it to be out .00075 so just under .001. I used a shaper washer to be able to tighten up only using the inside collar.
I put a blade in and measured in a few places, older blade dont know its history. One thing I dont get is putting the dial centered on the blade lowest point then dropping the blade I see a difference of .007. Figured fine the blade is not exactly square to the top so I loosened off the tilt stop and went below zero. I stlil see that change, sort of like the whole carriage as you raise or lower the blade moves in one direction .007. Not sure if it even matters but i would have thought when the blade is true 90 degrees there should be little to no change raising and lowering off the side of the blade.
See how the scoring blade works, Height and side to side so I guess your scoring blade has to be exactly the same thickness as your saw blade? likely missing a washer but wasnt focused on it.
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Warren, I adjust mine slightly more that the kerf of the main blade. Not much, but a little more.
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Yes, the rubber seals would be better. I also put a light smear of grease on the outside of the rubber on both sides. The idea being to catch the dust before it migrates in, but I think it would take decades to make any real difference from dust buildup inside the seals.
Contributor
Almost all seals are contact which helps to keep out the crud but also reduces the speed rating of the bearing. Irrelevant in this application. Shields are almost always non contact so shielded and open bearings can run faster. There are bearings with non contact seals but they are usually special order and rare. Dave
[OP]
Contributor
John what do you mean slightly more? choices for adjustment on this saw are side to side and up and down for the scoring motor. I think one washer is missing and the nut is fairly rusty last owner didnt use it but the motor was running for sure tested when I bought it. In the past ive never needed one but wouild like it running its not a priority at the moment. Bearings need to be next. Still confused raising the blade up and down and how i could not get it to stay zero at the bottom and top of its travel. Ill check another saw today to see what that one does. ILl check with my best level and make sure its totally level.
The arbour measured being out less than .001 in fact .00075. Do i want to live with that or is it sensible to reduce that, what do you aim for in the inner blade collar.
Found these bearings from Timken. Timken did me well with some time to explain rebuilding some car parts. David you stated not C3 for clearance but rather C2 or CN the clearance listed on these is C0 is that okay?
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Last edited by Warren Lake; 06-04-2018 at 11:34 AM.
Contributor
If the Timken are more expensive than the SKF, buy the SKF. You don't need anything better for your application. Runout is fine if you are measuring it on the inner flange near the edge.
Dave
[OP]
Contributor
Timken are just over 10.00 per and they had in house stock stuff for under 2.00 I ordered the Timken because I appreciated years back two engineers sat down with some car parts and confirmed info from a friend and gave me more info. Not like I will change their bottom line here but still appreciate the service I got from them in the past.
Contributor
Timken was the original tapered roller bearing. They also own Fafnir who I'm guessing is the manufacturer of the deep groove bearings you are buying. Fafnir makes good bearings. Dave
[OP]
Contributor
so some progress and more to shortly. Handle is back repaired and into the wiring. electrician showed up and figured stuff out. Here is first of all. Some previous owner jumped the master shut off. Not good as shut off one phase would still run through. White wire was 22 inches long. Not only not ideal silly length of wire. Has any one taken these apart and its the most likely failure arcing? Ive taken magnetic starters apart in the past and done fine cleaning up years of use later though one or two where a little spring shot accross the room and landed in sawdust not so much so.
One start button would not work so he took the scoring start and put it on the main blade. Ive since taken the start button apart and it works fine now after many attempts.
Top left main shut off is the offender
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Back of panel jumpered from 3 to 4 with ubber long wire.
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