No, it's the L'invincible line, green. I think this one has 9" under the nut.Originally Posted by Warren Lake
Guest
No, it's the L'invincible line, green. I think this one has 9" under the nut.
[OP]
Contributor
they did make the 160 more than one year or just that one model you have with the oil and power lift is the one year thing, this one was manual lift and tilt. Big deep machine and heavy. beige and agree at least that much under the nut. Turned so smooth felt like there wasnt a belt on it.
Guest
It's the oil circulation for the bearings. Scm claims they never made one. Only seen 3, maybe 4.
[OP]
Contributor
I guess its like area 51
Contributor
This is how I fixed mine when it did the same. No problems.
[OP]
Contributor
I tried to measure the handle thread size last night and im getting M10 x 1.5. Bit hard to tell with the threads being so rounded but think thats accurate anyone verify that measure.
Then whats the best way to remove the bearings from the shaft? Im thinking its going to put pressure on the bearing in a non positive way but then they are not being reused anyway but even going back on if a little tool was used not much of a shoulder for that.
Member
A bearing puller tool would be simplest. NAPA dealers often have loaners of these, just requires a temp charge on your credit card. Usually just need to return within 24hrs and they release the hold.
Contributor
Those aren't for sealed bearings, it'll destroy them. I believe you need a bearing extractor made for blind assemblies (rather than through assemblies) which grips the inside of the bearing and applies pressure to that shaft support.
Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 06-01-2018 at 12:41 PM.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Member
Those 27 year old USSR-made bearings are pretty well trashed, I wouldn't worry too much about saving them for anything. A new set of sealed SKF or FAG 608 bearings would likely cost under $60.
I'd say it's a very worthwhile upgrade if you've already got the sliding table off the saw.
[OP]
Contributor
once again the bearings are being replaced. THey can come off any different way. I dont see any easy way to get the bearing off the shaft as it is now that would not possibly do damage but it doestn matter anyway. Almost something like a pickle fork that slips in and is super thin might do it. I could grind a putty knife likely to do that and might do it for a lark to see if it works. Going on they will need a tool to knock them on a piece of shaft drilled or bored out to just contact the center portion of the bearing and nothing more. Found a bearing supplier not too far in an area I will be in. Aasked him for Timken and its next day. Ill photo the bearing later how they are on this short shaft, its got an offset so as you turn the allen screw center they move from side to side for adjustment of how they sit on the bar.
Contributor
Can you remove the shaft from the block, then just knock the shaft out of the assembly.
I am careful to avoid destructive disassembly, so to avoid damaging the adjoining parts.
Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 06-01-2018 at 8:50 PM.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
[OP]
Contributor
David, I checked all the Italian motors and every plate was labelled 60 HZ, since you mentioned they are 50HZ I wanted to check that.
Member
Bearings should be heated for installation on a shaft not hammered on, ever. If you wrap one in a very wet paper towel and microwave for about 1:30 it should increase it's diameter by 0.002" at 200º. This will allow it to slip on effortlessly.
[OP]
Contributor
came apart super easy cut an allen key short and just rested the bearing on a vice since its not reused.
Also looked at making a pickle fork from a thick putty knife and its easy to do just grind it to the shaft size it will likely take it apart very easily and that could be done with good bearings take them apart without damage. Bearing would stop moving by the thickness of the knife so likely need a second one either way I wont have a need to do that.
As far as assembly decided to put it back together and see how that would go,. Found a socket that was absolutely perfect 9/32 of one brand like someone had machined it for this, more amazing was the same allen fit into a hole down the center of the socket so it could be used to align it so you would not slip off the inner race.
Hammering is a big word, tapping the inner race with the socket that is only touching the inner race I doubt has any affect on the bearing I have a press but this is small stuff and id think it might be easy to get it cocked, The shaft itself is not even ground square or cut square so it wont even sit square. I dont see heating either there is grease in there and not sure what temps affect that, its not needed. I learned from a mechanic a while back when you can put stuff under load then light tapping will do wonders as its loaded. This isnt an application for that but when I have used that in the past its excellent ive seen people pound stuff to take it apart and on the same application I modified a tool so it could load the parts and then just light tapping it moved easily, then tighten up the load again Light tap and you just move it along slow bit at a time.
Nice how the socket was perfect for this and even the allen key fitting a hole already in the center of the socket? think I should go out and buy a few lottery tickets.
[OP]
Contributor
site issues as usual and cant see my post and wanted to add this in, log off I see my post then cant put the photo in when I log on my post is gone.
The socket fit the inner race like it had been machined for it. The allen key fit the part as its the correct allen key for that think 4mm, the allen key fit snug to a hole down the center of the socket. I cut the allen about an inch and half long enough that it didnt extend out the end of the deep socket. It kept it all perfectly aligned and the socket fits tight and snug and just moved along the allen lining up perfect with the inner race. seated as well or better than before I took it apart
Capture.JPG
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote