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Thread: Small SCM slider repairs SI 16 SF

  1. #76
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    4,838
    I set the knife to center on the plate. It is seldom you rip against the fence on a long slider, more often on a short but if the saw is well tuned and has little runout, there is no need to push the stock against the fence with the knife. Dave

  2. #77
    Site doesnt work right for me so cant see your post Dave.

    Id say that a riving knife should hold the material tight to the fence otherwise my little finishing nail already can out perform it. If I rip long stock or want to be critical on some final rip stuff id put a finishing nail in, its not the fence its me walking the material and the finishing nail gave it consistent pressure tight to the fence. If they are not set up that way either people are missing the point or they are too fiddly to shim up to get then positioned that way and im wondering if this is going to have shades of the original blade guard.

    Answer came back that ideally the riving knife is the same size as the blade. So three blade sizes then different plate thicknesses? think I would stick with 14" blades like you do. I do have one 16" blade then 14 and mostly 12.

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    4,838
    Sometimes I have to log out to see all the posts. Due to the scoring blade, I run a combo blade 90% of the time ( Forrest WW2 in this case- not my favorite but the tooth width is the max my scoring blade will handle). The rip blade has a very similar thickness plate and I never seem to need a better crosscut blade. I would not vary the plate thickness or blade size much. Simplfies life to not have to swap blades, knives, and adjust scoring often. Get a good blade and use the saw before deciding what types of blades you need. I've found that a good blade, FS Tool, Leitz, Royce Ayr, Nap Gladu, or forrest, and a machine with ground flanges to reduce runout give such a good cut you don't need a million blades unless cutting special materials. Dave

  4. #79
    yeah logged on non of your posts are here the last one is my Timken bearing post.

    So appreciate your answering and so far I can see a riving knife is not going to be as good as I thought. I realized after I posted I want it to be to the right to keep pressure after all id hope that my lowly finishing nail cant do a thing a riving knife cant but I think it can. If the riving knife is to the right and the riving knife should be thicker than the blade plate thickness there would be an issue offsetting it to the right. Id say then I want a riving knife that is not necessarily thicker than the blade plate but that i can put to the right side of the kerf so it can at least put pressure on the material to the fence. Its solid closes in ill deal with it I always have with less HP.

    I have lots of blades mostly Melmine and mostly Royce, Ultima and a few other models. ILl likely try Kanafusa stuff for the scoring and a rip, I do have one combo as well in 12 likely Ulitma.

    What did you say about machining something? I cant see your post so not sure what you said are you talking about the blade collars that go on each side of the blade? I did check them before and think one was out about .0015 ill have to look that up that was the inside right side of the blade one that goes on the key way.

  5. #80
    next I checked the fence to see if it was straight. It has this sort of plastic laminate stuff on it.


    1.JPG

    Lead in edge was out .022, outfeed end was out .027 so whatever this material is it was worn.

    2.JPG

    Damage in the blade area

    4.jpg


    Took it off with lacquer thinner ill go with the aluminum so here is whatever that material is sure some of you have used it ive not seen it before

    5.jpg


    Fence has been cut into as well. I measured the fence and its pretty good overall it is more worn in the blade area then the added damage done from some previous owner.

    8.JPG

    Good it was square to the table unlike the one on the cabinet saws


    9.JPG

  6. #81
    fence measures. Ill live with the fence damage for now, Not sure if its a thing they can machine out. Overall the fence is fairly true about .002 out but up to .004 and .005 in the damaged area.


    Fence measures.jpg

    this is the underside of the fence and I see no adjustment for Parrallel like on the cabinet saw fences. It was cleaned up and deburred after this photo.

    111.jpg

    I think as the starting set up point since the saw has no mitre gauge that this fence has to be parrallel to the blade or if you supscribe to the set out thing think I read on Altendorf that the heal of the fenc should be out about .002 ill check that.
    Last edited by Warren Lake; 07-24-2018 at 1:16 PM.

  7. #82
    table top measures. can see a bit worn in the heavier wear areas that is the blade area middle. Fine for now. Likely can be hand scraped which ive never done, dont know what it is but a tool and die maker mentioned doing it to the ways on his Bridgeport. I normally flatten things with a hard edge with stick on auto body paper. Ill leave this for now.

    Table inserts show lack of logic. There is not lip on the main blade insert so if you wanted to use set screws to adjust be pretty hard to drill and thread as too close to the edge, then there is not much material in the table top as well. Compare that the scrolling saw which is less critical because of how it works they make a good size lip in the saw then have the insert threaded with allen screws. even my cabinet saws have that. Most of the stuff on this saw so far is much better than the cabinet saws guess Iill still find the odd thing that is going backwards.

    Has anyone modified this in some fashion. The insert does not sit close to flush and I doubt its straight.

    some table top measures
    11.jpg

    main blade insert

    1.JPG

    scrolling saw insert with lip in the table stop and insert has adjusting screws to flush it to the top, someone had their thinking cap on

    2.JPG

  8. #83
    back to the riving knife. This one home made you can see the slot for the dowels on the mounting block is oversize so it gives a fair bit of front to back tilt, also it wasnt made wide enough to extend past the mounting block so you could never position it properly according to stated 6-8 mm clearance you would run the blade into the block first and looks like someone has.


    1.JPG

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