You have a ryoba, i.e. you have a rip saw AND a crosscut saw. So, unless you're looking for an opportunity to get a new saw (not that there's anything wrong with that, mind you), you're already set with what you need for the workbench.
You have a ryoba, i.e. you have a rip saw AND a crosscut saw. So, unless you're looking for an opportunity to get a new saw (not that there's anything wrong with that, mind you), you're already set with what you need for the workbench.
It came to pass...
"Curiosity is the ultimate power tool." - Roy Underhill
The road IS the destination.
Look behind door #3. There is another option, a saw blade filed as a “Sash” saw. I have the Tools For Working Wood (TFWW)(Gramercy) model, and it is my favorite saw. The Sash saw was designed for exactly the purpose you mention. Some will argue that the Sash saw is actually a Tenon Saw, but it has important variations that allow one to make cross cuts with similar results.
Gramercy (TFWW) makes a kit that comes with hand hammered teeth/plate. Ron Bontz offers an even more customazable kit for a Sash/Tenon saw. Bad Axe may offer parts too. You can learn a good deal making your own saw.
Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 05-31-2018 at 2:03 PM.
I hear ya! I'm finally making some forward progress on my first real 'woodworking' bench; I figure the lumber for the legs should be pretty well seasoned after sitting in the shop for <way too many> years I've got a couple ryoba saws that are going to probably get tagged for most of the saw cuts, mainly because they're cheap and they're what I have on hand. That said, I recently put a deposit on a Bad Axe 14" carcass saw. This article by Mark Harrell (of Bad Axe Toolworks) touches on what saws (size, teeth, etc.) he thinks you 'need' vs. 'want'.
Actually you do not have to buy an entire kit, which is sort of like a model airplane with all the parts. I think the kit you mention has all the parts ready for assembly. I believe there are a number of different places your can purchase blades/plates from. I suspect a plate/blade without teeth ground in it might be obtainable for far less than an entire kit. There are lots of models/designs for handles floating around. You can make or buy a back out of a number of different materials. The screws which hold the handle on are available from multiple sources too.
Learning to make and set the teeth for an entire plate is somethng I want to do at some point. I am confident it will develop a greater understanding of everything going into tooth design. I think there are places where you can buy teeth ground in by a machine and then refine them yourself too.
I think Ken Hatch makes a good point about building a bench, just do it. Chances are by the time you are done you will figure out a significantly better design and your needs will change. My original bench was 2x4s, 2 sheets of 3/4” plywood, a sheet of particle board, screws and nails, with a single Record vise. Now I am building an adjustable height workbench/worktable using loose tenons....then I will build a “real” bench from various hardwoods I have been collecting.
Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 06-01-2018 at 10:21 AM.
IIRC, when I attended a Paul Seller class, he filed all his saws rip cut.
When he did a season of tradeshows on the road, I went to his last demo. He used back saws that were rips only, regardless of the cuts, because for cross cuts, he made a knife wall first. I guess he brought only rips to the shows because he did not have to double check the teeth when he picked it up. This guy was something as he used a #4 for everything, including edge jointing. He also had a 4 1/2 on the bench. But he made it clear to the crowd that they should use a longer plane for that job.
At the end of the show, he gave away his bench. He planted the seeds for his online success (he was solo then, now he is supported by a team).
Simon
Last edited by Simon MacGowen; 06-01-2018 at 12:30 PM.