Router Table dust collection questions

[John Stankus]

I have an old Woodpeckers router table combo with the dust collection cabinet that never seemed to do what I wanted.
router table dust box.jpg
(probably bought about 15 or so years ago)

First this (now discontinued) dust box has a 3.5 inch connection.
Second it pulls air down into the router (with the chips) working against the cooling fan. (PC 7518)
Third the connection is so low its tough to make

I was thinking either of two things
1. Punch a smaller port into the box higher up, leaving the bottom open as additional air. Also putting a Y in to some above table dust collection.
2. Only do above table dust collection and either remove the box or leave it but leave the bottom port open for cooling air.

Thoughts??

John

[Nick Decker]

I know a lot of people build their own boxes under the table and are happy with them. I opted for the Incra system and it works great for me. Until recently I was using a 1 hp (rated 650 cfm) dust collector, and even that did a good job. I recently went to a 2 hp (modified HF) and it's even better.

I've kept an eye on how hot the router (7518) gets and it's fine, even running non-stop at top speed for 5-10 minutes, doing box joints. In that closed box, there's enough air moving past to keep it cool. And the router stays cleaner because dust never settles on it, just blows on by.

I can post pics if you want, but you've probably seen it on the Incra site. The only (minor) drawback is that to change speeds, you need to reach in through the side door and do it by feel. Not bad once you've done it a few times.

[Wade Lippman]

I'd put a 4" port in higher up, and run a 2.5" port (off a Y) to the fence. Well, that IS what I did.

[Josh Kocher]

Here's my story on what works for me...

My router table is built intuitive my worktable/outfeed... I use my vacuum in the fence and my DC from below. The DC from below does quite well on its own, but with both running it's very clean.

For below the table, I made a box with a 4" port in the side. For concerns of countering the router cooling fan, I didn't want to pull straight from the bottom.

Additionally, to keep clean air moving through the router I made the box with a hole in the bottom sized so that the "top" of the router just goes through.

The bottom hole is roughly cut, but a pretty close fit. I don't have any problems with dust escaping here. I initially thought I'd put a brush type thing around the opening, but haven't had the need... It also allows me to reach the speed control and on/off switch on the top of the router if necessary, without having to take the lift out of the table.

Zero issues with overheating on extended routing sessions, I recently milled 100's of feet of shoe mold cleanly through this setup.

So if I were you:
I'd punch a hole in the side of the box to my DC.
Somehow modify the original bottom hole so dust doesn't fall out the bottom, but it potentially provides make up/cooling air.
Use a vacuum in the fence.

[glenn bradley]

I had little success relying on the bit opening as the "make up" air supply for any reasonably powerful DC. I added holes in the door across from the 4" port at the lower wall/floor joint of my box. I used a dummy door to find the sweet spot and was surprised how much return air it took for the DC to become effective during use. Routers launch spoil at high speed so, depending on the type of cut, collection from below and above may be your optimal. My return air opening area is just a bit over the area of the 4" exit port. Of course there is additional "make up" air from the bit opening. This varies as I have a variety of inserts to optimize the air-flow versus material support.