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Thread: Tapered chisels & honing guide

  1. #16
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    You also can learn to hone your chisels free hand.

  2. #17
    Sort of like the old 5 angle Veritas guide...and handy for setting skews. Would be nice to have a 45 degree ref, but easy to eyeball, right? Most of the time, it's just slam the blade into the setting gauge and go...done. Def agree that jigs speed up getting students to sharp - it's always a battle for whatever time is available, and especially luthiery, given the additional topics that have to be covered beyond just the woodworking and finishing stuff.

    IMG_6788.jpg

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by lowell holmes View Post
    You also can learn to hone your chisels free hand.
    Lowell,

    I agree. I've round heels when it comes to sharpening....I'm willing to try just about anything with an open mind but it always comes back to the easiest and best way is to freehand. With any other way there is always a "yes but". I wish it wasn't so but with any guide I've tried there is always a exception, a iron that can't be used or a failure of the guide, it is always something. Over the years i've thrown a bit of money at guides and the results are always the same. The guide (inset name here) works well for "A" but not for "B". The LN guide is like all the others, works well for some irons, doesn't for others. I gave mine with most if not all the jaws to Ralph over at "The Accidental Woodworker" to put in his grand peanut's toolbox. I figured that was better use of it than it gathering dust in my "tool room".

    ken

  4. #19
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    I will freehand (Free Bird?) to MAINTAIN an edge....when I first get a chisel or plane iron in the shop, I will use a guide to reform the edge...IF it needs it.

    Since my MK1 guide burned up (ooops) my current guide is a blue Marples/Irwin....that I use the old MK1 angle plate to set the angles to.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
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    Hey guys,

    thanks for all the answers!

    I guess me being a newbie and the chisels being my late grandfather's I didn't want to risk messing them up.

    I'll just have to learn the hard way and use the guide for the plane irons which seem much trickier for a newbie as they are so much thinner....

    I might still consider making some taper gigs for the guide, let's see...

    Bram

  6. #21
    I am baffled here...why does this guide work for everything I throw at it in terms of chisels, but not for you? Other than needing the mortise jaws for the slick (which will likely never see a guide, as it's both easy and faster to free-hand) and the very deep section mortise chisels, I ran through every blade that was handy and not in deep storage (a sample of which is shown in the photo) and found the standard jaws take everything from 2" framing chisels to narrower, deep sectioned bench chisels without issue. I have to assume you have a subset of tools that you've actually tried to use the jig to hone and which do not fit - if you could take a few shots of the misfits, that would be helpful.

    IMG_6794.jpg
    Last edited by Todd Stock; 05-25-2018 at 7:43 AM. Reason: Affected by gyroscopic precession

  7. #22
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    Hey Todd,

    I'm not talking about taper in the "thickness" direction of the blade.
    I'm talking about taper in the length of the blade. I.e. the "sharp/pointy" side of the chisel being wider than the bit closer to the handle.
    The chisel I tried had almost 2mm side-to-side movement in the guide on the "handle side" if I clamp it up.

    Bram

  8. #23
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    So like this one, but obviously much less pronounced
    710215_01_P_WE_8_Konische_Stemmeisen_Blattbreite_12_mm_WZ_jpg_600x600.jpg

  9. #24
    Just a standard bench chisel like that?

  10. #25
    Traditional bench chisels were tapered in both width and thickness. As an example, a chisel in the Seaton chest was 1.04 inches at the edge and tapered to .89 inches at the back. Over this same range the thickness went from .075 inches at the bevel to .285 inches at the back. In the 18th century this taper in width slowly became less over the years.

  11. #26
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    I'll measure the chisel in question tonight and post a picture of it in the guide...

    Bram

  12. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Stock View Post
    I am baffled here...why does this guide work for everything I throw at it in terms of chisels, but not for you? Other than needing the mortise jaws for the slick (which will likely never see a guide, as it's both easy and faster to free-hand) and the very deep section mortise chisels, I ran through every blade that was handy and not in deep storage (a sample of which is shown in the photo) and found the standard jaws take everything from 2" framing chisels to narrower, deep sectioned bench chisels without issue. I have to assume you have a subset of tools that you've actually tried to use the jig to hone and which do not fit - if you could take a few shots of the misfits, that would be helpful.

    IMG_6794.jpg
    Todd,

    I'm older than dirt so the eyes are not as sharp as they were but, and I could be wrong, I do not believe there is a pre-WW!! chisel in the bunch. Back in the day chisels were made by hand and as Warren posted they were tapered. I'd love to have Bram's problem.

    ken

  13. #28
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    The one from my granddad is most likely pre-ww2...It's a peugot freres...

    Bram

  14. #29
    I am kinda with Todd here... I don't see the problem in real life.

    I think this is a case of overthinking the "trouble" with these guides... The basic designs for these guides (which have been around for almost 100 years now) already worked all this stuff out in their designs... For example - the "eclipse" style guide has 1 curved jaw and 1 straight jaw - so it will take chisels with a bit of unevenness in the sides... The Stanley/General/Veritas style top/bottom clamping guides have some "wobble" in the tightening mechanism to allow for typical taper....

  15. #30
    Likely true, given the two Marples are round neck with 50's logo...as I mentioned, pretty much what is out and available for students. What percentage of bench chisels in use do we think are to be found with blades which taper in width behind the cutting edge? Seems like the ability to fit just about any parallel-sided bench chisel would cover pretty much everyone likely to use a guide.

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