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Thread: Polyurethane Reboot?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    Warsaw, Missouri
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    Polyurethane Reboot?

    I have applied 3 coats of Polycrylic to a large panel (birch ply wrapped in cherry), and decided I really don't like the look - I want to warm it up a bit using Minwax Poly-Gloss to match some other items...do I need to take the panel all the way back down to bare wood?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Denver, CO
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    You could apply minwax poly (I assume oil based) over the Polycrylic after it's thoroughly dry, but I have a feeling it won't warm it up the way you're hoping. It may darken it a little but won't darken the wood as it's already sealed up.

    You could always give it a shot and see how you like it but I'd wait a few days for the polycrylic to dry. Otherwise just sand back to bare wood and go straight poly.

    The cherry will also darken over time on its own. You'd be waiting a while though.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Lewiston, Idaho
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    28,549
    You can hurry the darkening of the cherry by just placing the panel in direct sunlight.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    Dublin, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Nordyke View Post
    I have applied 3 coats of Polycrylic to a large panel (birch ply wrapped in cherry), and decided I really don't like the look - I want to warm it up a bit using Minwax Poly-Gloss to match some other items...do I need to take the panel all the way back down to bare wood?
    I'd test any chemical stripping process on an offcut first, to make sure that the stripper won't attack the adhesive bond between the face ply and core.

  5. #5
    John,

    Toning is a reasonable alternative to stripping and starting over. I think it is more predictable than applying a different finish. It would, however, require some experimentation.

    You can tint the next coat of Polycrylic with Trans-Tint or with acrylic artists' paint from a local art supply store. I use a color wheel to help me choose the tint. I have found it easier for me to stick with "classic" earth tones like burnt umber and burnt sienna. Be very sparing with the color because tinted finishes tend to show any brush marks or other uneven thickness of application.

    Be sure to try this on scrap until you get what you want..

    Doug
    Last edited by Doug Hepler; 05-24-2018 at 2:58 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Warsaw, Missouri
    Posts
    92
    Thanks, all. I decided in order to match other pieces I should start over so I sanded back - wasn't that bad, well-dried Polycrylic sands out pretty easily.

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