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Thread: SawStop 3hp or 5hp?

  1. #1

    SawStop 3hp or 5hp?

    I'm wrapping up the details of my next cabinet saw purchase but haven't decided yet whether to get the SawStop Industrial 3hp or 5hp. The 3hp cabinet saw I had previously served me well and never seemed to lack power. Rob Cosman in his review of the same saw stated he never had a situation where a larger motor was needed. As a DIY'er my needs are certainly much less than his. Are there circumstances when a larger motor is helpful? Thoughts?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Pottstown PA
    Posts
    972
    Ok, all I can do is share my experience from a few years back. I had a grizzly 1023slx with 7' table (3hp) that I used for over 10 years. It was a solid solid machine. I paid 1100 new and sold it for 800. It would do the nickle test even when I sold.

    The only complaint I ever had was when making pencil post beds, it would grunt on 12/4" cherry. 6 or 8/4 no problems. That's with a Forrest WWII. I did get a 20T rip blade to break down wide to posts.

    When the sawstop came out I was a huge fan. I saved my pennies for years, to buy it. When I finally had the go to do it, I wanted 5hp to handle the thick stuff. That was a need I specifically had. I would have bought the PCS if I could have got it in a 5hp. You can't do that. I even called CS and asked a technical guy if I could by a 5hp motor from an ICS and retrofit it on the PCS. He indicated no, as the electronics are a little differently.

    So it was either buy the pcs stay at 3hp or jump (or leap) to the ICS. I made the pro's and con's list (self justification). For me this was my last forever saw. So, I was not going to just settle. Second, the table surface is bigger, and that's nice. I'd used a pcs on several occasions and I liked the extra space in front and rear of the blade. I work in manufacturing as well, and I really Liked the interlocks on the cabinets. It's a real nice feature, to absolutely know if that doors is open its not coming on. (other work arounds for that)

    Downsides....It's a lot more expensive. I looked for over a year for a used on to come on the market and it just don't happen that often. I had to consider the diff in $$ and consider that it's my last saw. I factored that over the years I plan on using it (till kids have to sell it), and the yearly incremental cost is squat really.

    Only other downside is with 5hp had to put in a bigger circuit 4 wire and that copper was expensive. (you will need two hots neutral and ground as it has 110/220 needs.

    End the end, I went with what I wanted and have never looked back. I can tell you this after these years, I have never ever ever uttered the words "dang I bought too much saw!"

    It's only money and you go around once. Get what you want!
    Last edited by Keith Hankins; 05-21-2018 at 4:26 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    In the foothills of the Sandia Mountains
    Posts
    16,641
    I've never needed more than 3hp.
    Please help support the Creek.


    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,533
    As an amateur, I can't imagine needing more than 3 hp. My current hybrid saw has 1 3/4 hp and I haven't stalled it yet.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Hankins View Post

    Only other downside is with 5hp had to put in a bigger circuit 4 wire and that copper was expensive. (you will need two hots neutral and ground as it has 110/220 needs...
    Whoa! This may have saved me from making a very costly mistake. I recently upgraded the electrical in my shop and added a lot of 220V outlets using 10 gauge wire but without a neutral. I checked the SawStop webisite this morning (before my earlier post) and one of their online manuals stated that 3hp and 5hp ICSs don't use a neutral. But that may not be the manual for the current model. I'll have to check this out. Thanks for the heads up!

    Edit: I just contacted SawStop and the manual they referred me to states that their 3hp and 5hp single phase Industrial saws do not use a neutral wire.
    Last edited by Steve Mathews; 05-21-2018 at 5:11 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,530
    I’ve never had a SS, but for the other saws I’ve had (Bridgewood, Unisaws, Powermatic 65) 3hp was plenty. I’ve got a 1.5hp 3ph Uni now and haven’t had issues. Even if I was to cut 12/4 like said above, that’s about 0.001% of the cuts I’d make. Just go slower for that 1 in a million cut, okay, 1/100,000 in my example. That being said, I did find a cheap 3hp 3ph motor I plan to put in the Uni one day.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    5,666
    Do you plan on a lot of deep dado work? That would impact my decision. I'm just a hobby guy but I've cut a lot of wood that needed more than 3 hp but never on a 10" saw. The decision would also be impacted by the quality of the motor if I intended to stress it with 12/4 oak or heavy dado work. Dave

  8. #8
    Any downside to the 5hp over the 3hp except for the price difference?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Eastern KS
    Posts
    406
    We have a 3hp in our Shop and I have never had an issue using the proper blade. It did does bogg down in anything greater than 8/4 With a combination blade. With the proper replayed it’s not a problem. I would not have a problem buying another one to replace it if need be. So the 3 hp is likely more than adequate.

    With that said I have never regretted buying More power or capacity in a machine I have definitely regretted not buying enough. 3 hp saw stop is not one of the regrets

  10. #10
    I just got a used 5hp industrial CB. I run it on my
    30amp dryer outlet no prob. Couldn’t pass the deal up.

    Next place a buy will have a larger panel. Also using 10awg wire.

    Only downside I heard is if the brake fires it’s 100% gonna destroy the blade.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Phoenix AZ Area
    Posts
    2,505
    I faced the same decision. I had used a 3HP Unisaw for 10 years and then a 3HP PM66 for over 10 years. The only time I needed more HP was when using the saw to bevel a full 2.5" in oak. With a sharp blade I had to go slow and that it would burn. The 5HP was $100 more and I figured better safe than sorry.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Edmonton, Canada
    Posts
    2,479
    I have the 3HP ICS and has served me fine most of the time. However, if I was going to choose I'd pony up the $100 extra and get the 5HP.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Between No Where & No Place ,WA
    Posts
    1,340
    RE: 3 HP v. 5 HP costs. I just looked on the SawStop "build and price" page and the 5 HP is US$400.00 more.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Trent Davis View Post
    Personally, I recommend going with the 3HP.

    Running 5HP on single-phase is kind of pushing it to the limit. I like to describe it as driving your car 90 MPH wherever you go. It'll get you there fast but after a while you'll be wondering where that ticking sound is coming from. They tend to go through capacitors much faster than a 3 HP and although this is an easy thing to fix, it can cause unneeded downtime, most-likely when you are working under a deadline.

    -Trent from SawStop
    Use better capacitors.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,272
    Hi, unless you're running a stock feeder I wouldn't go with the 5HP option, you'll obtain no benefit from it, and it will cost more, including electrical work.

    Regards, Rod.

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