How Would You Make This Cut With a Table Saw?

[Prashun Patel]

How many of these do you have to do? If only a couple I would do it with a handsaw and clean up with a handplane.

[Jim Becker]

Cutting the board standing on end is also an interesting approach as the depth of cut need only be two inches or so at that angle. Though I would have ten chances to do so, I am quite attached to my fingers and I don't imagine my oafish, ham-fisted finesse would further me in my keeping them while attempting this.

Cutting this with the board standing on end more or less requires a tenoning jig or similar...it's not a safe operation for free-hand work along the fence, IMHO.

[lowell holmes]

How many of these do you have to do? If only a couple I would do it with a handsaw and clean up with a handplane.

I agree, a handsaw is the way to do it.

[Brian Holcombe]

I’d probably just chop the waste with a chisel then pare to the line.

[John Gulick]

If you have a tenoning jig with enough clearance, you can use that to hold the board upright and then cut it with the saw blade angled.

Free hand on the bandsaw and a quick clean up with a plane would also work.

+1, we would use this method

[Tim W Jackson]

Amazing. I had to make a similar cut to this yesterday. I am trying to mount an eye hook to the garage to anchor a string of lights. The wood clapboard on the garage has an agle to it and I needed to mount a 2x4 to it. I though about using my jointer...dangerous. Tablesaw....very dangerous. Rasp.....tedious. Then I realized this is perfect for my bandsaw. Done in 30 seconds. Near perfect.

[Phillip Gregory]

On a 2x4 piece of lumber.

I have a 10" table saw with an incra miter gauge that goes up pretty steep but not as acute as this cut requires...
I'm tying my brain in knots trying to figure this out.

Attachment 385988

https://imgur.com/MWaOcPo

I doubt you're going to be able to do that well on a 10" table saw as a 2x4 up on edge is about 3 1/2" tall and most 10" table saws can only cut a fuzz over 3". It would be a "do a pass and then flip it over" scenario which is far from ideal.

There are many other ways to do this:

1. Use an edge sander with an angle jig and simply grind the red area off of the board. This is the preferred way to do this as it is simple, safe, and you can sneak up on the angle/cut.

2. Use a decent sized disk sander with an angle jig and simply grind the red area off of the board. This is how I would do this operation as I do not have an edge sander yet, but my disc sander is big enough to grind that piece off of a 2x4. The downside of a disc sander vs. an edge sander is that the disc sander will leave a rougher surface with circular scratches vs. linear scratches.

3. Use a bandsaw with an angle jig and cut the angled piece off of of the board. Literally any bandsaw will be enough to make this cut.

4. Put a wedge underneath the far side of the board and run it through a jointer to put the taper on the red area of the board.

You would need at least a 12" cabinet saw to decently make this cut, and that would be more difficult than all but method #4 listed above.

[Ted Phillips]

Personally, I would just mark out the lines and knife them in - then use a jack plane to trim it down to the lines. Easy Peasy.