How Would You Make This Cut With a Table Saw?

[Clay Anderson]

On a 2x4 piece of lumber.

I have a 10" table saw with an incra miter gauge that goes up pretty steep but not as acute as this cut requires...
I'm tying my brain in knots trying to figure this out.

2x4.jpg

https://imgur.com/MWaOcPo

[Dave Richards]

Clamp a square block of wood to the fence on the miter gauge and clamp the stock to the block. Or don't use the miter gauge and instead make yourself a quick tapering sled that'll ride against the rip fence.

[Neil Gaskin]

I would use a panel fence jig similar to the below link. Use a sacrificial stop for both support and to reduce tear out.

http://www.startwoodworking.com/plan...g-jig-tablesaw

[Rick Potter]

It goes upright, on end. Google tapering sled as Dave advised, or 'making raised panels on a table saw'. It will give you the general idea. Make sure the piece is CLAMPED solidly to the sled.

[Andrew Seemann]

If you have a tenoning jig with enough clearance, you can use that to hold the board upright and then cut it with the saw blade angled.

Free hand on the bandsaw and a quick clean up with a plane would also work.

[Charles Lent]

All good suggestions. I use my tenon jig when I need to make this type of cut if the cut will be short, and use a high sliding fence that rides along my table saw fence with the work clamped to it when the cut will be long, as in raised panels. In either case, a sacrificial backer can be used to prevent end of cut tear out.

Charley

[glenn bradley]

+! on upright with a tenon jig, either commercial or shop made if you don't have a bandsaw.

[Pat Barry]

How long is the 2x4? If it is short, as pictured, I would just use my fence set at the correct distance. Position the fence, tilt the blade away, and stand up the 2x4. Push it through using another 2x4 laying down on the table along the fence. Seems pretty easy. If it is a long 2x4 I'd cut it by hand saw.

[Jim Becker]

A tapered cut like this can be done in a number of ways including those mentioned. Personally...I'd make a rough cut on the bandsaw and then use a hand plane to complete the task. Safer in many respects...and if the board is long, it's not something you can do vertically on the table saw with a tenon jig anyway.

[Ben Rivel]

OP you dont have or have access to a bandsaw?

[michael langman]

Using some trigonometry figure the length of the side opposite over the length of the 2x4 to give you the angle you need. Use double sided tape to put a piece of wood to the side opposite the angle. Tjhen rip it with the fence on the tablesaw.

[Ben Rivel]

Heck another approach that might be possible is using a miter gauge on an edge sander or belt sander and just "grinding" that angle off and sanding it smooth afterwards. I really dont think the table saw is the best or safest way to get this cut made...

[Carlos Alvarez]

I too would head to the bandsaw for the cut then the edge sander to smooth it.

[Clay Anderson]

Thanks for the replies folks. Unfortunately I do not have access to a bandsaw or edge sander, but I will definitely look into a tapering sled/panel/tenon jig.

Cutting the board standing on end is also an interesting approach as the depth of cut need only be two inches or so at that angle. Though I would have ten chances to do so, I am quite attached to my fingers and I don't imagine my oafish, ham-fisted finesse would further me in my keeping them while attempting this.

[lowell holmes]

You could consider making the cut with a handsaw. I have a Disston D12 10tpi that would make that cut in a heartbeat.
It's ok to brag isn't it.