Are winding sticks nothing more than 2 identical pieces of wood?

[Tom M King]

This is the view I use. You can raise or lower your eyes to close the gap seen between the two-over the near one, to under the far one. We move our "shop" every year or two, to where we are working, and winding sticks are not something I bother to keep up with to move.

[michael langman]

I made my winding sticks out of some used clam shell molding. The wood grain was very straight and not much work to complete.

[Roger Nair]

I use common framing squares with the 22 1/2 scale resting on the work piece and the 16 inch arm reliably rights the gauging scales. In the past I have used electricians colored tape at the edges to provide contrast.

[Randy Chesnut]

Two pieces of 1" aluminium box stock, one sprayed white, the other black. Durable, moisture-proof, and lightweight. Durable is good, as I take them with me when I am wood shopping since any wind at the source will be much worse when in the shop and dried.

[Bill Houghton]

We've answered the original question, yes: two sticks. They do need to be the same width over their length, straight, and thick enough not to fall over; but nothing otherwise is required.

My winding sticks are two junky aluminum levels found at yard sales, $1 each. I knocked out the vials, since I couldn't trust them as levels, but the extrusions are straight and parallel (same width over their length). Fast, stable, cheap.

[bridger berdel]

One other thing; if they are different lengths place the longer one at the far end of the board. It helps compensate for perspective.

[Brian Holcombe]

Winding sticks are the most important checking tool because they help you to see twist. I use them for checking boards along with assemblies to be glued like doors or frames. I use them on nearly everything I build, and so I prefer them to be very accurate. For that reason I check them against a known flat surface, a granite checking plate.

Warren’s advice is top notch and I used his advice when I made my current sticks a few years ago and stopped using metal straight edges.

Local to me is a joiner whose work I greatly admire, it was no shock to me when he provided that a tool he used extensively is a nice pair of winding sticks that dovetail together when not in use. His are vertical grain Douglas fir and have a beveled too edge.

Mine are QS bubinga with ebony inserts for contrast.

[Zach Dillinger]

One tip: if you make the front stick taller than the back stick, you don't have to stoop down as far when using them.

[Marc Jeske]

Everything has been covered here except one issue - Length.

The longest as is practical for the specific use, the easier to read.. meaning the un parralleness will be showing better.

Just like laying out a building foundation corner, you don't use 3,4, and 5 INCHES, but create the longest legs you can to measure from.

So, just like that gives better accuracy, the longer your wind sticks, the easier to perceive deviations

Most of you are saying"Uhhh, we knew that" but I can guarantee a few did not.

Checking a 1" board edge, sticks might be 1 or 2' (IMHO).

In checking a large assembly workbench for flatness, I use two 6' AL straight edges.

Marc

[Robert Engel]

Adam,

I think the purpose of the angular shape is for sighting purposes, ie. discerning the front edge from the back.

The issue with "any old wood" will be movement. Quarter sawn stable wood like oak is a good choice.

I found it helps to inlay contrasting wood at the ends of the boards and the rear board has a black colored inlay going all the way across.

IMG_0343.jpg

I do think its a good idea to have a couple different lengths, or get used to reading more error than you think on narrower boards.

For larger areas like when I built my large workbench, I used two 4' levels.

[Marc Jeske]

Also, another thing to consider is that when sighting across the sticks, lighting direction AND background color (like White, opposed to dark) will assist clearer discernment.

The background color comment assists like the contrasting edge color idea mentioned above.

For example checking a 8' long workbench - Something like - A white melamine 4x8 sheet or similar standing against far end of bench, a black stick on far end of bench, a light colored stick nearest you, something like that.. and light shooting toward background will be easiest to read.

Like in the large scale example of a long bench above - Don't get too close with yer face - keep your eyes at LEAST like 4' + from the closest wind stick (so the far end of 8' bench is no closer than 12' from your eyes)to get a sufficient widish angle picture.. scan left to right repeatedly to get a mental picture of parallelism.

Tried to explain, hope made sense.. you know what I mean, not that complex.

I overexplain.

And you don't need a granite surface plate, just decent straight edged parallel edge material.

Unless you're building it for NASA to go to Mars anyway.

I get OCD about accuracy, was laying bottom foundation course of full rough 2"x8 horizontal boards on a retaining wall build today 90 ft long using an old but loved Nikon Builders level ("transit")..can guarantee +- 1/8" MAX deviation at WORST.Got all the crowns "stringline"straight within that spec.

I got to sit at the level w notepad and my Tea, helper at wall doing the bullwork, shimming, etc.
Marc

[Noah Magnuson]

+1 on using aluminum angle. I have a few pieces of various lengths. It is also good for things like dovetail markers etc. and cuts nicely with a power miter saw for a machined finish. Al flatbar is cheap and very durable for straightedges too.

[Jeff L Jump]

My winding sticks are maple and black walnut. Very good contrast with these two species. IMO it helps to clearly mark the centerline of both winding sticks, making it much easier to balance them on a board. I made these up a few years ago, something quick for the moment because I needed to check my work for twist. I've been using them ever since when I'm hand planing stock. I did eventually apply a shellac finish on both just to protect the wood from handling and to help control moisture. Both sticks seem to be staying true. If and when I ever get to making a better pair I plan to make the bases heavier and thicker so they stand better on the surface being checked.

[andy bessette]

Aluminum angle is often bowed. Better to use a balanced shape.

[Marc Jeske]

"Aluminum angle is often bowed. Better to use a balanced shape."

Possible, very true.

It's not sold to be used as a straightedge, so ya gotta check it w a known.

But if it is straight, it can be a great Winder.

Stands up nice, and if straight when bought, and YOU alone handle it, NO one else is allowed to touch, should be good till you pass.

Whatever you use, just make sure it is reliably straight.

Marc