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Thread: Library table build mussings

  1. #1
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    May 2015
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    Library table build mussings

    So I have decided to make a table for someone I have never made anything for - me. See the attached picture. I'm thinkin the top will be 1 1/4" thick, 72" long by 32". The sides appear to be the same or just a skosh thicker - maybe 1 3/8. But I think I might like a 2 1/4" thick side. What are your thoughts on this? If the sides go 2 1/4" or there a bouts, would you glue up 3/4" boards or buy the 12/4 if it could even be found?

    I really like the bottom shelf with the wedged thru tenons and it will probably be close to the picture. (I work from home on computer consulting, and having a place to put my feet up a bit is really nice.)

    It looks like there is only a single brace (stretcher?) under the top that is thru tenoned and wedged, but I think I'll double it - one each about 9" or 10" in from the edge of the table. Question: would you attach the braces to the underside of the table, and then slide the sides on, or assemble the sides and braces, then figure 8 the top to them? Or??

    And the cut outs in the sides seem like they are "framed" proud of the surface of the sides with 1/4" flat stock. Think I like that, not sure yet.

    All QS white oak. Probably an Old Master gel stain (I really like the Special Walnut stain) and wipe on poly finish.
    Bill
    If it wasn't for the last minute, nothing would get done.

  2. #2
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    And here's the picture I forgot to attach.
    2018-05-11_18h08_50.jpg
    Bill
    If it wasn't for the last minute, nothing would get done.

  3. #3
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    Jun 2017
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    Landenberg, Pa
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    That's nice, I'm working on something similar. I found 12/4 QSWO locally but it was insanely expensive. I glued up stock, I found it easier to get 5/4, process that down, glued up, and then process again to final thickness. I matched the laminations from the same board, so they turned out nice. As for the table top, I've been messing around with drilling and tapping, and using stainless hardware (hidden inside the stretchers via relieved holes, and I didn't bother with plugs). For something that heavy, I might move to a threaded insert, but I've had really good experiences with just threading the holes directly. Good luck man, my biggest problem is where to store a huge half-done table.

  4. #4
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    ya, I think I'll go the glue up route as well. Are you making the sides thicker than the top? Still wondering how that's gonna look. So you thread the top and attach it with bolts thru the stretchers? Any pics? And yes, my poor golf cart is going to be evicted from the garage once this gets underway.
    Bill
    If it wasn't for the last minute, nothing would get done.

  5. #5
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    Bill, it sounds like there's another project that's going to have to jump in front .. a garage for your golf cart so you'll have a full time workshop.

  6. #6
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    My targets are pretty much close to yours on thicknesses. I attach some pics of a sewing desk I finished for my wife out of walnut. The legs are bolted to a stretcher and the whole lot to the top all with stainless bolts. You can see the stainless bolts hanging down from the top, but when threaded in, they disappear into the legs. You can zoom in and see the holes I made with relief for the bolt head and washer. Go slow with the tap, and back out frequently to clear the waste and it works well. Maybe when I'm home I can take better pics if you need. I didn't photograph the tapping process but it was just standard, drill hole with bit matched to tap, tap threads. (and yes i'm aware my photos are all wonked, I give up trying to flip them around)

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Carey View Post
    ya, I think I'll go the glue up route as well. Are you making the sides thicker than the top? Still wondering how that's gonna look. So you thread the top and attach it with bolts thru the stretchers? Any pics? And yes, my poor golf cart is going to be evicted from the garage once this gets underway.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
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    LOL - we just ordered a Yoder 12 x 20 shed so I can get all that pesky gardening stuff and golf cart and riding mower out of my workshop. She reminded me last night when I was complaining that I needed somewhere to put the golf cart that in 40 years of marriage her car has NEVER been in a garage. (funny how she can talk in capitol letters)
    Bill
    If it wasn't for the last minute, nothing would get done.

  8. #8
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    wonked or not I see what you did. Cool. I might have to try that.
    Bill
    If it wasn't for the last minute, nothing would get done.

  9. #9
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    Jan 2010
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    Bill, I'm not sure how far north you are in NW Indiana, but there is a retired Purdue forestry professor in West Lafayette who operates a small lumber operation just a couple of miles off of I-65.

    Cassens Lumber. He doesn't list any 12/4 on his site, but he might custom saw a log for you. Of course you may prefer something that's already cut and dried. His prices are pretty hard to beat. He doesn't offer any milling services. So you have to straight edge and plane your own stock. Google Cassens Lumber if you are interested. Another good hardwood source in this part of the state is Series Hardwood in Attica. They have a facebbook page, but no web site. They are a small family operated wholesaler. They will straight edge, plane and sand while you wait. Both of these operators are happy to serve retail consumers. Cassens requires an appointment, but Series typically honor their posted operating hours. You might check with them.

  10. #10
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    Thanks Joe - a couple of weeks ago I bought a couple hundred dollars worth of QS white oak in West Lafayette from a Purdue Ag professor. Must be their favorite hobby. I found him on Woodmizer's site. https://woodmizer.com/us/Services/Find-a-Local-Sawyer


    Bill
    If it wasn't for the last minute, nothing would get done.

  11. #11
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    Apr 2016
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    Bill, I think your interpretation of the design is good. The dimensions and thicknesses look right. For preference it would be better to make the ends out of 3" stock. If you can't get it, laminate from thinner stock but only as a last resort.

    Make the base a complete frame and attach the top after. I recommend machining slots for screws to attach the top.

    Trimming the cut outs looks good. You just have to make sure the timber is nicely dry or else make the top and bottom pieces with the grain the other way so they move with the end. Cheers

  12. #12
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    here is the entire page from Stickley's magazine The Craftsman (1901 to 1916) with his mill list and dimensions.
    2018-05-18_10h52_17.jpg
    Bill
    If it wasn't for the last minute, nothing would get done.

  13. #13
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    I'll have a bit of a play and see what I can come up with for you.

  14. #14
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    Terrific. Here's the second page. Does appear to be 2 braces with 4 stretchers between them.
    img113.jpg
    Bill
    If it wasn't for the last minute, nothing would get done.

  15. #15
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    Feb 2003
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    Rochester, MN
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    Thanks Bill. PM sent.

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