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Thread: Small Engine Repair

  1. #1
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    Small Engine Repair

    My rototiller has a 6HP Briggs & Stratton engine that is acting up. This is a Sears sold item that is about 15 years old.

    My guess is it has a stuck valve. When trying to start it it turned over a few times, then froze solid. Removing the air filter exposed a lot of liquid. My first thought was some how water got in, but that didn't make sense being it was stored in a dry place. Removing the spark plug allowed the motor to be turned again accompanied by a shower of gasoline.

    My experience with mechanical things is enough to give me confidence to rebuild it myself. That would require acquiring a manual which isn't a big deal and taking the time out of my other activities to do the work. Gosh, if it was clear to me that retirement would keep me so busy it may have been my choice to continue working... I miss the naps. (that's just a joke, btw, my recollection is of only falling asleep a couple of times once my graveyard shift days were over)

    Another option would be to take it to one of the shops in town, most of which are unfamiliar to me.

    Finally buying a new rototiller would be the third option.

    What ideas do others have?

    jtk
    Last edited by Jim Koepke; 05-14-2018 at 2:09 AM.
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  2. #2
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    Might just be the carburetor. Sounds like the float might not be floating, which would not close the needle valve, which would not stop the flow of fuel. I'd check the compression, and spark. You shouldn't need a manual. If those are good, it would be worth rebuilding the carb. If it didn't have good compression, I probably wouldn't bother to rebuild a 6hp B&S, but try to find a Honda to replace it with.

    All you'd need would be a carb kit, carb cleaner, and a white dishpan. The first two things would be mandatory, and the white dishpan for obvious reasons. Briggs and Stratton carbs are really simple. All you really need to know, that's not obvious, would be the starting number of turns for the jets, which should be in the instructions with the carb kit, but if not, should be easy to find online.

  3. #3
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    With the engine model, and serial number, you can probably find a carb kit for it on the auction site with free shipping. If you order it from one of the parts replacement specialty houses, it will cost several times that.

  4. #4
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    Not much to a small gas engine. If you have the time it is good experience to work on.
    Having said that, Before buying a new tiller or spending a lot of $$$$ on parts I would just go to Harbor Freight and buy a new motor.
    https://www.harborfreight.com/65-hp-...epa-69730.html

    My experience with mower shops. It is going to cost $100 to have anything done.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    Might just be the carburetor. Sounds like the float might not be floating, which would not close the needle valve, which would not stop the flow of fuel. I'd check the compression, and spark. You shouldn't need a manual. If those are good, it would be worth rebuilding the carb. If it didn't have good compression, I probably wouldn't bother to rebuild a 6hp B&S, but try to find a Honda to replace it with.

    All you'd need would be a carb kit, carb cleaner, and a white dishpan. The first two things would be mandatory, and the white dishpan for obvious reasons. Briggs and Stratton carbs are really simple. All you really need to know, that's not obvious, would be the starting number of turns for the jets, which should be in the instructions with the carb kit, but if not, should be easy to find online.
    That was my first thought too, gasoline draining into the engine. Might just be gunk on the float valve seat but a carb rebuild it is a no-brainer - inexpensive, quick & easy to install, and likely to fix things. Take the float out - if it's bad you can probably hear the gas inside when you shake it.

    JKJ

  6. #6
    Karters are now using the HF motor mentioned above. Cost less than 1/3 of what a B&S costs. Only down side I see is metal gas tank. For your engine, look on ebay for either carb kit, or whole carb. Be sure and change oil in engine before starting, and again after a few moments running. Oil will have gas in it, which will wipe out engine quickly.

  7. #7
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    flat head engine? If you do have to do valve work a drillpress makes a dandy valve spring compressor. Keep the bad valve someone here mentioned they make a nice bunisher for edge tools.
    Bil lD.

  8. #8
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    It sounds like hydraulic lock from stuck needle valve in the carby filly the cylinder with fuel as others have said. Pull the carby apart, clean it and it should be a goer. It happens with gravity feed fuel systems. My '52 David Brown is a shocker for this. I have to make or adapt a new needle and seat as I can't find the original parts anymore. Cheers
    Every construction obeys the laws of physics. Whether we like or understand the result is of no interest to the universe.

  9. #9
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    Thanks all for the ideas. Sounds like a good place to start.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  10. #10
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    I have fixed a lot of stuff by typing “broken XYZ” into Youtube. There are a lot of electrician/plumber/auto repair/appliance repair types who have made very good videos showing how to fix the things they know about. I have not needed to do that with small engines, but would be very surprised if someone has not made a video showing how to troubleshoot that engine.

    For household appliances there are also companies now who sell repair parts direct to the customer. Some have videos on their website showing how to test to figure out what part is bad, and what to do to fix it. They make money selling you parts, so they make money by showing you what part you need and how to install it. There may be similar companies with small engine repair.

  11. #11
    Option #3 :-D

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    Option #3 :-D
    The equivalent model is on sale now for ~$690 down from ~$998.99.

    As folks advised, today the carburetor was inspected. The float seems to be okay. The shaft it was on was kind of sticky and the seat for the needle valve looks like it may have not been sealing well. The rebuild kit has a new needle valve and seat. The kit also has a new shaft for the float but no new float. Guy at the counter in the store said the floats seldom fail. Looks like it needs some cleaning and a few changes of oil to get back to work. May have time tomorrow after going into town.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  13. #13
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    Probably needs a new fuel filter too. Also, it's probably old enough that the fuel line is rubber. Ethanol may have eroded the inside of it. I'd replace the hose from the tank to the carb, with a new filter.

  14. #14
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    I just rebuilt a carb on an old B&S engine. Total cost of all the parts - $23 + about an hour labor for me getting it done.

    You got this John!!
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  15. #15
    Jim, Go to amazon with your specs for your engine and buy a new carb for around $15 or so. Why fuss with repair? Justin

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