Replacing a Door But Reuse Hinges

[Ken Krawford]

I'm replacing a door but want to reuse the existing hinges and will pull the hinge pins and leave that half of the hinge attached to the jamb. The new door will need to have mortices cut to match the existing hinges.
I've found that the screws that attach hinges to the jamb will often strip when re-installed so if practical, I'd like to leave the jamb part of the hinge undisturbed.
I had good luck in a previous project like this by cutting the mortices, screwing the half hinge to the door and then mating it with the other half hinges in the jamb. I also realize there is zero room for error in this approach and I might have just been lucky.
What is your preferred method for cutting new mortices and installing hinges in a door like this?
Thanks for your comments and insight.

[John K Jordan]

I'm replacing a door but want to reuse the existing hinges and will pull the hinge pins and leave that half of the hinge attached to the jamb. The new door will need to have mortices cut to match the existing hinges.
I've found that the screws that attach hinges to the jamb will often strip when re-installed so if practical, I'd like to leave the jamb part of the hinge undisturbed.
...

You can use longer screws that go through the casing and further into the 2x support behind.

But to do it your way I've done this: remove the door and leave all three hinges attached to the frame. Align the door with the hinges and either clamp it to the hinges or put a short screw through each hinge (at least the top and bottom) to temporarily hold the door. Mark the hinge positions, remove the door, and cut the mortises.

The other thing I've done is just cut out the casing and replace it, but this is more work with the trim and all.

JKJ (certainly no expert but this has worked for me)

[Steve Demuth]

Cut the top hinge in by measurement. As the pilot hinge, it doesn't have to be positioned with super precision. Hang and level/plumb the door carefully on the top hinge with the other hinges assembled on the frame. Having wedges on hand to elevate the outboard swing of the door is very helpful. Now mark the mortises directly on the hanging door. Unhang the door, cut the mortises, mount the hinges, and rehang.

[lowell holmes]

I would make a story stick.
You take a thin stick, hold it next to the existing hinge mortises and make marks on the stick locating the mortises.

Then transfer the marks to the new door.

[Wayne Eikenberry]

When I do this, I use the old door as a story pole. I clamp the two doors together and transfer the hinge mortise locations directly to the new door.

[Jim Becker]

Cut the top hinge in by measurement. As the pilot hinge, it doesn't have to be positioned with super precision. Hang and level/plumb the door carefully on the top hinge with the other hinges assembled on the frame. Having wedges on hand to elevate the outboard swing of the door is very helpful. Now mark the mortises directly on the hanging door. Unhang the door, cut the mortises, mount the hinges, and rehang.

This is an excellent method to get the mortises "dead on". The suggestions for a story stick are also good if one doesn't want to hang the door on that top hinge for some reason.

[Wayne Lomman]

Lowell's story stick is the way to go. The other methods work but involve unnecessary amounts of holding relatively heavy door in place and juggling bits and pieces. Cheers

[Ken Krawford]

Thanks everyone for the feedback. Steve, your approach sounds like it would work well for my situation.
As an aside, this was a 2-0 x 6-8 door that I made. My daughter provided the measurements and I got to work on the door. I went to install it a couple of days ago and the door wouldn't close. It turns out the existing door was actually 23 3/4" wide. Time to rip 1/4 off the door. All the mortices will have to be cut again too. Measure twice & verify !!!

[Bradley Gray]

Good methods already for locating the hinges.

When i make a replacement door I always check the diagonals of the old door and build a new door to match.

[Floyd Mah]

Here's another way to transfer the old hinge positions: Use a bandsaw or track saw to cut the 1/2" or so of the old door on the hinge side. This will preserve the actual screw holes of the original door. Tack this to the new door however you like (double stick tape, brads, screws). Use a vix bit or transfer punch to transfer the screw holes to your new door. You can mark the hinge locations using the old hinges fastened to the screw holes or use a pencil and a square.

This technique would avoid problems with transferring the locations using a pencil or scribe and may also avoid any difficulties created by the older hinge being slightly askew.

[Ken Krawford]

That’s a great idea Floyd. Unfortunately the door has already gone in the trash. I’ll use that technique next time. VERY clever!

Here's another way to transfer the old hinge positions: Use a bandsaw or track saw to cut the 1/2" or so of the old door on the hinge side. This will preserve the actual screw holes of the original door. Tack this to the new door however you like (double stick tape, brads, screws). Use a vix bit or transfer punch to transfer the screw holes to your new door. You can mark the hinge locations using the old hinges fastened to the screw holes or use a pencil and a square.

This technique would avoid problems with transferring the locations using a pencil or scribe and may also avoid any difficulties created by the older hinge being slightly askew.

[joseph f merz]

as for the stripped threds in the casing . problem with long screws into the jamb is it can knock the door out . but the real problem is that i often need to original screws due to matching the hinge . Anyhow with my trim stuff i have varies size dowels .shove them in the holes and use my centering bit to start the hole . though it isn't always that smooth .sometimes i drill the hole and use a bigger dowel ,1/4" or 3/8 depending on the issue .Often times I will use glue but today I was lazy . I hammered in 1/8 dowels ,used my self centering bit and shoved a screw in .Hope that was helpful

[John K Jordan]

as for the stripped threds in the casing . problem with long screws into the jamb is it can knock the door out . ...

This is true, especially if you crank down hard on the long screws. One thing that can help to prevent warping is to shim the casing well directly under the hinge using two thin wedges inserted from opposite sides. When installing new hinges I typically use one long screw and three "standard" screws on each hinge. I also shim directly under the long deadbolt strikeplate screws on exterior doors.

(Of course, shims need to be applied before the walls are finished. If it's too late for that, I would still install at least one long screw and tighten the last turn by hand.)

You can find long hinge screws that look good with most hinges: https://www.hingeoutlet.com/collections/wood-screws

Your method of doweling the stripped screw holes sounds good, especially for today's cheap casings that seem to be soft as styrofoam. I usually just hammer in a pointed plug of sorts carved from a wood scrap and coated with glue but drilling and plugging is probably better. When I replaced all the doors at my last house I was tired of junk and built new casings from red oak. The guy who bought the house told me later the thing that cinched the deal for him was the doors!

JKJ