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Thread: Pmv 11

  1. #1
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    Pmv 11

    I was thinking bout getting a couple plane blades to replace A2

    Hardwood use

    Probably a #4, and 164 BU @ 45* to start w

    At the current time, I’m using a buffing wheel to strop-just lazy I guess-thrash me if you like

    Have read last time discussed here that PMV11 can be sharper and last longer, but but but it takes more effort to get the edge?

    For discussion, suppose I’m foolish enough to have access to different kinds of sharpening media

    Worth it?
    David
    Confidence: That feeling you get before fully understanding a situation (Anonymous)

  2. #2
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    I like my pmv11 blades and chisels. That being said, I wouldn't buy a pmv11 blade or chisel to replace a perfectly good one. Instead, focus on sharpening, and keeping sharp, what you've got!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Ragan View Post
    I was thinking bout getting a couple plane blades to replace A2

    Have read last time discussed here that PMV11 can be sharper and last longer, but but but it takes more effort to get the edge?
    In my experience PM-V11 takes more effort to sharpen than does O1 on some media, but is comparable to A2 in that respect. I don't think you'll need to change your sharpening practices at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike King View Post
    I like my pmv11 blades and chisels. That being said, I wouldn't buy a pmv11 blade or chisel to replace a perfectly good one.
    I also wouldn't buy a pmv11 blade to replace a perfectly good one, but I would (and have) to get rid of A2 :-).
    Last edited by Patrick Chase; 05-13-2018 at 12:26 AM.

  4. #4
    I like the PM-V11 chisels and find that they sharpen easily.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Chase View Post
    In my experience PM-V11 takes more effort to sharpen than does O1 on some media, but is comparable to A2 in that respect. I don't think you'll need to change your sharpening practices at all.



    I also wouldn't buy a pmv11 blade to replace a perfectly good one, but I would (and have) to get rid of A2 :-).
    Same here and my experience with PM-11 is sharpening it is closer to A2 that O1. Still quicker than A2 if using water stones but on Ark not so much.

    A thick A2 cutter is/was a solution looking for a problem. I know it will never happen but I'd buy them in a heart beat if someone made a modern LN or Veritas quality "Bailey" style plane with thin O1 or even thin PM-11 cutters.

    ken

  6. #6
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    I know it will never happen but I'd buy them in a heart beat if someone made a modern LN or Veritas quality "Bailey" style plane with thin O1 or even thin PM-11 cutters.

    ken
    Hi Ken

    They are available, at least the PM-V11 blades are. I use them in my LN3# and #4 1/2.

    http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/pag...182,43698&ap=1

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  7. #7
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    I have several planes with PMV11 blades and at least one chisel. I use Spydeco stones for it, and see no major difference in sharpening it, versus A2. Subjectively, it seems to last longer.
    If the thunder don't get you, the lightning will.

  8. #8
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    The plane blades have to be slightly modified to fit LN right?
    David
    Confidence: That feeling you get before fully understanding a situation (Anonymous)

  9. #9
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    I imagine much of our opinions are based on what we are used to. O1 gets very sharp but, needs touching up too often for me. Very possibly due to 'me' and not to 'it'. A2 stays sharp longer and sharpens easily to me but, I did not have years of non-A2 sharpening under my belt so it seems "normal". PM-V11 sharpens like A2 as far as I can tell and holds an edge many times longer. I have irons in A2 and PM-V11 in the same form due to random purchases over time. I use them interchangeably and switch them out when the edge starts to need attention. I tend to sharpen in batches if things need more than just a touch up like you would do during use. When a touch up won't do them end up off to the side to await my next batch sharpening effort. When I buy new, I buy PM-V11 whenever possible.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Ragan View Post
    The plane blades have to be slightly modified to fit LN right?
    David, you can use any blade in a LN as long as you use the LN chipbreaker. It is the chipbreaker that sets it apart, and this is due to the adjuster slot being higher than other makes.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    David, you can use any blade in a LN as long as you use the LN chipbreaker. It is the chipbreaker that sets it apart, and this is due to the adjuster slot being higher than other makes.
    That's incorrect, at least for every L-N bench plane I own. If you want to use a thinner iron in an L-N plane then you have to open up the slot in the cap iron that receives the depth-adjust tab.

    The reason this is so is because the depth-adjust tab is tapered (gets thicker the closer you get to the frog) and the cap iron slot is very tightly toleranced to the tab's thickness 0.125" above the frog surface. If you use a thinner iron then you have to open the slot to compensate for the fact that the cap iron will sit closer to the frog, where the tab is thicker than the cap-iron opening.

    I suspect that L-N has tightened that slot over the years to reduce backlash, as that's something that reviewers tend to critique (pointlessly IMO) and that L-N does well at. I suspect that my L-Ns are much newer than yours as I'm much newer to hand woodworking, and that may explain the difference in our experiences.
    Last edited by Patrick Chase; 05-13-2018 at 8:11 PM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    David, you can use any blade in a LN as long as you use the LN chipbreaker. It is the chipbreaker that sets it apart, and this is due to the adjuster slot being higher than other makes.

    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Perfect Perfect
    David
    Confidence: That feeling you get before fully understanding a situation (Anonymous)

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Hi Ken

    They are available, at least the PM-V11 blades are. I use them in my LN3# and #4 1/2.

    http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/pag...182,43698&ap=1

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Derek,

    I still need the modern LN or Veritas quality "Bailey" type plane to go with the cutters .

    ken

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Chase View Post
    That's incorrect, at least for every L-N bench plane I own. If you want to use a thinner iron in an L-N plane then you have to open up the slot in the cap iron that receives the depth-adjust tab.

    The reason this is so is because the depth-adjust tab is tapered (gets thicker the closer you get to the frog) and the cap iron slot is very tightly toleranced to the tab's thickness 0.125" above the frog surface. If you use a thinner iron then you have to open the slot to compensate for the fact that the cap iron will sit closer to the frog, where the tab is thicker than the cap-iron opening.

    I suspect that L-N has tightened that slot over the years to reduce backlash, as that's something that reviewers tend to critique (pointlessly IMO) and that L-N does well at. I suspect that my L-Ns are much newer than yours as I'm much newer to hand woodworking, and that may explain the difference in our experiences.
    Yep, I agree with both points.

    BTW, reviewers can cause lots of mischief e.g. heavy vs. light, Bedrock vs. Bailey, edge longevity vs. whatever, and the list goes on and on.

    ken

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ken hatch View Post
    BTW, reviewers can cause lots of mischief e.g. heavy vs. light, Bedrock vs. Bailey, edge longevity vs. whatever, and the list goes on and on.
    Indeed. Don't even get me started on that topic. When I read plane reviews I often find myself wondering if the reviewer knows that most of their criteria are meaningless and are just doing it because that's what the readers expect, or if they actually believe in what they write. Back when I was a product designer I was senior enough that I was sometimes my group's designated "engineer who answers reviewers' questions", and I've seen both kinds up close.

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