JB--glad it worked out for you. The failure I had was done using WEST epoxy, applied in a thin coat, using a foam roller. The veneer was Birdseye maple.
JB--glad it worked out for you. The failure I had was done using WEST epoxy, applied in a thin coat, using a foam roller. The veneer was Birdseye maple.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
We had an epoxy "inlay" seep a half inch or so in either direction on a table top a few days ago. No amount of sanding would get at the staining. I've also seen over use of pva do the same thing with glued on edge banding. The glue seeps into the endgrain and changes the finishing characteriistics of that area.
The dash / instrument panel is made up of 3 sections, so total length is about 44 inches, one of the sections has a threaded stud that must be bonded in on the back side. I would like to bond the veneer down as one piece so the grains or bubbles line up across. It does look like it may have to be a epoxy, the couple of glue companies I contacted didn't have anything to handle the environment.
I'm thinking now to cut out three pieces of plywood to match as best as possible, not sure if I can route out the recesses for some the gauges, I'll have to dig out my old zip saw and give that a shot but at lest I can do a bonding sample with it. I'll need to find a a epoxy with enough working time to it for my speed. lol
Why the need for veneer?
Bob C
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
veneer on ply should be more stable. I did ask a friend who is a custom car builder and he has done it both ways so some cars originally did have solid originally.