[OP]
Member
I want to re-veneer the dash on my Triumph Spitfire car, I've stripped off the old veneer and the base wood is plywood. Since car interiors see a wide range of temperatures I would like to hear peoples thoughts on a couple of things.
The wood veneer should is be paper backed or bare wood?
What type of glue or adhesive should be used to deal with the temperature changes?
Contributor
Is the part to be veneered flat or curvy?
Contributor
If it's the typical flat section, you could pick almost anything that suits your fancy. Personally I would use paperbacked veneer which makes the process a bit easier.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Contributor
Pretty much any veneer will do. You can choose by authenticity (that is, what Triumph used), or by whatever you like. I'd glue it on using epoxy and a vacuum bag; that will be a strong reliable connection even in the demanding car environment. If you're using epoxy, there's no advantage to paper backing.
Contributor
While you may not have the same tooling, i've seen some videos on new car building (how it's made dream cars) that may provide some insight as well, good luck with the restoration!,
earl
Member
If you really want it to look great and last, send it to Madiera Concepts in Santa Barbara. Prepare for "sticker shock".Originally Posted by Earl McLain
Moderator
I agree that it doesn't matter whether or not it's paper backed or not, but paper backed is easier to use as someone already mentioned. Part of that decision will revolved around whether or not the edges will be visible or not where the perforations for gauges, etc., are. I don't recall if they surface mount with a bezel or sit behind the piece...I have a good friend who restored a TR-6 and has a TR-250 waiting for attention. I'd also go epoxy and use a vacuum bag for this kind of project.
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Contributor
Hmm, are we talking a dash or an instrument panel?
Contributor
i've replaced all the wood in a fiat spider (74) i had...did it twice over the years and just used solid wood and clear coated it. No issues and i was living in FL at the time where it was super hot. The wood was used for
- instrument cluster
- around radio
- around shifter
- glove box door
- etc.
first time i used cherry and the second time i used cedar.
Bob C
Contributor
Epoxy will almost certainly soak through and stain the face of any thin veneer.
I would use the original pieces as templates and cut new ones from veneered plywood of a similar thickness. Look for ply with exterior glue.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
[OP]
Member
this is for the instrument panel.
Contributor
Urban legend. What happens is that the epoxy comes through the veneer in spots, and forms a very thin skin on the show surface of the veneer. It easily sands off, leaving no visible remainder. I do it all the time.
Contributor
JB--no legend; it's happened to me. Soaked right through the veneer and could not be sanded off.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Member
No so fast
Glue can seep through endgrain areas of veneer, which are common in figured veneers and burls. When dry it results in a stain or uneven color.
I recently experienced this with some figured cherry. The solution is to apply shellac to the glue surface prior to glueing.
Or used a paper backed veneer.
Like Jim suggested, I would probably use epoxy because it dries extremely stiff which will resist extreme temp variations inside a vehicle.
Contributor
Perhaps you're using way too much epoxy. I roll it on with a low-nap roller. I use enough to make sure the surface is wetted, but that's about it.
My current project is a Murphy bed plus bookcases. There's a little over 100 square feet of curly maple veneer in it. The veneer is conventional veneer -- no paper back. All of it was glued with epoxy. There was some bleedthrough in patches. All of the bleedthrough disappeared in the sanding step.
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