Looking to purchase a power washerv-- Gas or Electric??

[George Bokros]

A note on gasoline... You can buy pre-mixed white gas that is stable for at least two years, and won't clog up carbs. It's expensive per gallon, but if you use so little gas in power tools that you need this, then the cost is really nothing. I buy about one $6 can per year, so the cost is meaningless.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TruSouth...5638/202532877

This is not stated as "White Gas." It is ethanol free and costs $19.00 a gallon I can buy 90 octane ethanol free gas at around $3.90 a gallon locally and add my own 2 cycle oil at a much lower cost.

You use one quart of gas a year? I run ethanol free gas in all my power tools, mower and tiller as well as the 2 cycle blower.

[Carlos Alvarez]

You use one quart of gas a year?

Approximately. Maybe two. So the cost is irrelevant and the convenience plus not having to fear a tool not starting is a clear win. If I spend $12/year or $5/year, my bank won't really notice.

[Bill Dufour]

$1,000 is not in the cards for me.

I got mine at the flea market for $40.

[Nike Nihiser]

I had an electric one made by Campbell Hausfeld I bought in 1995, used it quite a bit as I lived on a small farm at the time. It lasted a good 15 years. About 5 years ago I bought a cheap "Greenworks" one from Home Depot, I think. It gets occasional use, like 1-2 times a year. but still works fine.

[Bruce Wrenn]

FYI, Pump saver is a mixture of RV antifreeze, and mineral oil (10 : 1.) I wouldn't touch any PW from the BORGS, especially the "Troy Builts." The first Thing I look for is a horizontal shaft engine, instead of a vertical shaft engine. Then look at pump. If it looks like a hammer head shark, pass on it. Though a little pricey, Northern has some nice power washers.

[Matt Meiser]

I've now owned 4. I started with a consumer grade vertical shaft gas which lasted probably 8 years of cleaning an often-muddy compact tractor, tools I dragged home, siding, deck, etc. The pump gave out and replacement wasn't economically viable. I replaced it with a larger John Deere horizontal shaft which was really nice but close to 2x the price. When we moved into a subdivision 3 years later I sold it due to the size and much reduced need for a pressure washer. I bought a small Ryobi electric. It did basic stuff OK--just OK. The electric power was more of an issue than I imagined though so I ended up selling that on Craigslist and replaced it with a vertical shaft Troy Built from Lowes with a Honda engine. Its been good. I expect some day the pump will go and it will be trash but based on the first one I expect that to be a good while with my reduced usage. Using canned fuel for occasional use or stabilizer + Sea Foam in pump gas you shouldn't have fuel problems. I like to use pump gas during busier seasons and canned for lighter use or storage.

Another thing about some electrics--they often use proprietary fittings so you can only buy their hoses and fittings, or maybe not even remove the hose. Gas ones all use screw fittings either a 22mm(?) or 3/8(?) fitting and adapters between the 2 are readily available. I hate the screw fittings I bought quick-connect adapters for everything. I also bought a short gun which is a lot handier for car washing or getting under a mower deck. If you have a Northern Tool nearby or travel near one, its like a pressure washer accessory candy store.

[George Bokros]

The thing with pump gas is the ethanol, it absorbs water. That is why I buy ethanol free gas for the mower, tiller and the 2 cycle power tools. I use Seafoam mixed following the directions on the can of 1 oz per gallon of gas in the first gas of the season to clear out the carb even though I drain the tanks and carb each fall. Seafoam does stabilize the gas and so does the Echo 2 cycle oil I use in the two cycle gas.

On the pressure washer front since my use will be only every 3 or four years I will rent instead of buying.

[Thomas L Carpenter]

I bought the HF electric one last year and so far it's done what I need it to do. Extremely easy to use but not very powerful. I need to power wash the deck this year and I'm not sure it will handle it. I also have a gas model but as with all hand crank gas engines, it's getting harder and harder for me to supply the ooomph to get them started. I'm slowly going over to electric or electric start wherever possible.

[Bob Bouis]

Why? I have done this for many years, I am 71 and have done this since I got first mower over 40 yrs ago and have had zero issues.

As I understand it, there's a risk of leaving gas in various places and having it evaporate much more quickly than it would if you'd left it alone. You also expose various parts to atmosphere that weren't intended to be, which can lead to corrosion and dried out seals. Most people and manufacturers seem to be advising against draining the gas these days. I've used extra stabilizer for the last ten maybe and I've never had any issues.

[Carlos Alvarez]

As I understand it, there's a risk of leaving gas in various places and having it evaporate much more quickly than it would if you'd left it alone. You also expose various parts to atmosphere that weren't intended to be, which can lead to corrosion and dried out seals.

There is absolutely no truth to any of that. All seals and engine parts can be exposed to air indefinitely. They are, in fact, often for years. You don't buy the equipment or the parts covered in gas and oil. The only real problem with "old gas" or letting things evaporate instead of draining is that it will clog up jets, particularly the idle jet. In my life I've taken apart and cleaned so many carbs on small motors, and the idle jet is always the culprit. Sometimes it actually takes a tiny drill to clean it out, sometimes just a wire or compressed air. Just a few months ago on a hunting trip we almost didn't have a generator in camp because he forgot to drain the carb during the last use a few months before. Sure enough, clogged jets. On top of that, one seal had been expanded by constant contact with ethanol fuel; draining would prevent that.

[Bob Bouis]

There is absolutely no truth to any of that. All seals and engine parts can be exposed to air indefinitely. They are, in fact, often for years. You don't buy the equipment or the parts covered in gas and oil.

I don't think that's really true -- rubber, for example, degrades when exposed to air. We're also not talking about pristine new parts; well used ones have long soaked in strong solvents and have been exposed to other contaminants like water and engine blowback not present before use.

Anyway, I don't have any actual proof that one method of storage is better than another. I'm just trying to describe a trend in recommendations that I've observed and report my success with fuel stabilizers.

[Carlos Alvarez]

I've spent a lifetime of seeing drained small motors work fine and fixing a LOT of carbs in small motors that were not drained. Dozens? Hundreds?

[Bob Bouis]

Were the non-drainers using fuel stabilizers?

[Carlos Alvarez]

Some yes, some no. There are two issues with fuel; having it go bad, and having it dry while leaving deposits on the jets. Stabilizer only fixes one. In the case of the generator issue while hunting, he had used MY gas which is always stabilized. I put that in when I buy the gas, right at the station, before it goes in the trailer.

[George Bokros]

Geez, I didn't intend to start a controversy over drain the tank and carb or not drain the tank and carb. The only time I ever had a problem was when I DID NOT drain the tank and carb on my tiller over the 4 months between the spring tilling and the fall tilling. I have always drained the tank and carb in the fall like for 40 years.

Rubber is more likely to deteriorate exposed to light than air.