Dove tail or tenon saw?

[Adam Herd]

If I was just going to have one which would be better? I am slowly trying to upgrade my shop but on a very low budget. One of the things I want next is a dove tail and a tenon saw. How ever I can not afford to get both right now so what in the mean time would be better to have for both operations until I can afford the other?

[David Bassett]

If I was just going to have one which would be better? I am slowly trying to upgrade my shop but on a very low budget. One of the things I want next is a dove tail and a tenon saw. How ever I can not afford to get both right now so what in the mean time would be better to have for both operations until I can afford the other?

I guess it depends most on the size of your projects. Tenon saw will be awkwardly large for most typical dovetails. Dovetail saw will only cut very small tenons. I guess the tenon saw counts as more versatile. HERE is a recent thread that discussed the trade offs.

[Adam Herd]

If size is the only difference then I feel I may want a dove tail saw. I don't cut that big of tenons and if need be I can do those on the table saw.

[Phil Mueller]

I agree with your thought process. If you have a table saw to do larger tenons, go with the dovetail saw.

[Warren Mickley]

I would not recommend a tenon saw. For someone on a budget, I would recommend a sash saw which is 12 or 14 inches long and about a 13 point saw. Also a gents dovetail saw which has a turned handle, about 8 inches long, 15 point. If you look up "back saw" or "dovetail saw" or "gents saw", you can find these saws at reasonable prices, $15 to $25 a piece. You could also look for these saws at a flea market. In the long run you will want to learn to maintain saws.

I have won both the dovetail contest and the tenon sawing contest at the Handtool Olympics. In my own shop I use a sash saw which I purchased new for $4.50 in 1976 and a gents saw which I purchased in 1980 for $9.00. I have put an 18th century handle on the sash saw.

[Prashun Patel]

Adam, do you already own a saw in between the dovetail and tenon sizes? I find my tenon saw (as Warren advises) awkward for most things.

You might consider Japanese saws. I use a large Ryoba where many might use a tenon saw, and a Dozuki instead of a dovetail saw. I prefer it's easy start, find it delicate yet efficient, and appreciate the ability to cut in a variety of orientations with it.

[chris carter]

Do you already have a carcass saw? A carcass saw, if filed to 15tpi, is perfectly capable at doing dovetails. So if you have a carcass saw, but had a need for large tenons, then I would get a tenon saw. If you don't have a carcass saw, then I would get a carcass saw first because it can do both dovetails and small/medium tenons (although not as sexy, but the result will be fine). Truth be told, I use mostly two carcass saws; one is 15tpi xcut and the other is 15tpi rip and I use the rip for all my dovetails (but I used to use the xcut for dovetails and the difference wasn't much).

[Philipp Jaindl]

My Vote also goes to the Dozuki, perfect for dovetails and smaller tenons works alot better then any push saw i tried for me personally, though i try to avoid any paring on my Dovetails/tenons aiming for a good joint right of the saw.

Of course you can cut Dovetails or small tenons with jsut about any saw, Framesaw, Panelsaw etc. they all work a smaller saw is just more convenient and easier to use.

Back when i was in the same Situation the reason i ultimately decided against a Dovetail saw was that they are just too limited in depth of cut, making them only really useable for Dovetails and nothing else.

[lowell holmes]

I see absolutely no reason not to have one of each.
I think I will order a Dozuki.

[Steve Kaminska]

I found myself in a similar situation last year. I bought the Veritas carcass saw (5T07.05) It's a 12 pt. rip saw, the plate is about 11" long and 2" high. It has cut all the joinery I have done since I got it, and I haven't run into a situation where I needed a larger saw.

Before that, I used a Dozuki-style saw from Lowes that cost me all of about $13. It was a great saw, but my brain couldn't adjust to cutting on the pull stroke.

[steven c newman]

Have had a Disston No.4, 14" long, 11 ppi filed rip for a few years.....seems to be the go-to joinery saw in the shop.

[Chet R Parks]

Lowell, I switched to the Japanese style pull saws about 4 years ago and never looked back. Yea there's a shallow learning curve but once I got past that it was easy. I think the key is a vary light touch and no pressure on the blade. Good luck