Euro slider vs cabinet saw

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Saw /shaper combo. There are a few threads about this, most several years old.

My my main question isn’t how much you use or like it (but certainly open to comments), rather how the change-over affects your workflow. It seems the shaper unit will get in the way of the saw function, which would be prob 80% of my use. Do you just leave shaper attachments off until need.

N.B. My question is based on a few pics and videos, never seen one (yet) live but working on it.

My machine is a CF741, so I've got the shaper/saw combo, as well as a planer/jointer sharing the same space. I like that the shaper is easily available, and is a beast of a machine on its own. I like that the power feeder for it also is usable on the saw and jointer (awesome for face jointing). I like that I can just lower the cutter into the table and keep something common set up at all times.

What I don't like is having to set up the shaper fence every time I want to use it, so make sure you mill everything at once because resetting for that one door stile you forgot, sucks.

If I was building cabinets full time, I'd want a couple dedicated shapers. As I do one off stuff, a saw/shaper is perfectly adequate for my needs, as long as I plan appropriately.

[John Kee]

Had a chance this morning to take a few pics of the dual parallel guide method to do cuts longer than your slider. This is more for production oriented people. I didn't have any oversized material to cut but the pics show the procedure. First thing you typically do is to remove the front fence, move outrigger table back to accommodate the front parallel guide. Your other guide should be at the rear of the slider. Adjust guides to proper width and push material through the blade using guides as an outboard fence without moving the slider until over length is completely on slider. Then make cut with slider as you normally would.

[Joe Jensen]

Saw /shaper combo. There are a few threads about this, most several years old.

My my main question isn’t how much you use or like it (but certainly open to comments), rather how the change-over affects your workflow. It seems the shaper unit will get in the way of the saw function, which would be prob 80% of my use. Do you just leave shaper attachments off until need.

N.B. My question is based on a few pics and videos, never seen one (yet) live but working on it.

I have Felder KF700SP saw/shaper. I currently work in a 3 car garage and there was not room for a separate saw and shaper. I went from a Sawstop ICS and a PM26 shaper to the Felder. I was apprehensive about the changeover from saw to shaper and back. I have worked this way since Jan 2010. I do less changing in the middle of a project because I try to plan a bit better and when cutting I cut an extra part or two so I have backups in case there is an issue shaping. The changeover including tilting the feeder is less than 5 min so that's not a huge issue. I did order the unit with digital power height adjustment so it's easier to repeat a setup in the times when I need to change and keep a setting. I would not go back to a cabinet saw and separate shaper. Having said that, I am building a much larger shop now and once I have it done a separate shaper is high on the list of tools for the new space.

[Chris Parks]

Thx Marty. PM sent

Chris, I’ll be sure to drop by next time I’m heading to the Gong.

A local I see!

[Bill Adamsen]

I build whitewater dories ... There is lots of dado work for the boat framing and decking. Thx much. Jon

When building boats (dories) space for the growing "product" is typically the limiting factor. And then I find dado work on boats is often on long pieces of wood (at least for me) where it is easier to operate the dado cutter on the wood, rather than the other way around. That would favor a hand-held router or (sacrebleu) a sliding miter.

I have an 8' slider but often look at it wondering if the space wouldn't be more valuable. My sense is that if your workflow involves a lot of square panels, then that favors either the slider or vertical panel saw. If just a few square panels every once in awhile, your idea of the track saw makes a lot of sense.

[Chris Parks]

Tenons on a slider....

[Mike King]

If you want to cut them on the slide, it's not a difficult task to adapt the jig that holds the material vertically onto the slider wagon. That said, cutting the shoulders on the slider using the miter fence and then doing the remainder on the bandsaw is a great alternative...

Even better is if the slider is a combo saw/shaper -- then you simply shape the tenons with the shaper and a rebate head (or two).

[Rod Sheridan]

For a production cabinet shop, IMO its a no brainer. Time saving is enough to justify it.

For a hobbyist shop, its simply a matter of want + funds + space. (They are quite a space hog).

If you've got those 3 I say go for it.

Hi Robert, my slider is actually smaller than the General cabinet saw it replaced, and it replaced the shaper as well, so I really saved space..................Regards, Rod.

[Rod Sheridan]

John, I didn't know anyone had a pinned stacked out there, good to know! Nothing wrong with the shaper style cutter, I just personally prefer stacked.

Steve, being Canadian I have an FS Tools stacked dado for my saw, since it's 30mm bore I also use it on the shaper as a grooving cutter...........Rod.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Steve, being Canadian I have an FS Tools stacked dado for my saw, since it's 30mm bore I also use it on the shaper as a grooving cutter...........Rod.

I want one Rod! What diameter do you use?

[Rod Sheridan]

I want one Rod! What diameter do you use?

Steve, since I have a Hammer B3 I'm limited to 180mm diameter for the groover so I have the 6" version.

I bought one for Rich Riddle a couple of years ago as well.

Felder Ontario supply the FS Tools units as well..............Rod.