Euro slider vs cabinet saw

[Jim Becker]

It has for me, Brian. But like I indicated...there ARE going to be some boards that don't cooperate. Running a sharp blade is also important for obvious reasons. Lastly, the board must be held down securely on the wagon for best results...the idea is that it moves through the cut with zero deflection from the operator's hands, etc.

[Chris Parks]

It has for me, Brian. But like I indicated...there ARE going to be some boards that don't cooperate. Running a sharp blade is also important for obvious reasons. Lastly, the board must be held down securely on the wagon for best results...the idea is that it moves through the cut with zero deflection from the operator's hands, etc.

I simply cannot understand the need for clamps on a small slider and as I have never used a big slaider/panel saw I have no idea about the need on one of those. The F&F jig is in reality a clamp so maybe I need to rephrase that comment.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks again, Jim!

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I simply cannot understand the need for clamps on a small slider and as I have never used a big slaider/panel saw I have no idea about the need on one of those. The F&F jig is in reality a clamp so maybe I need to rephrase that comment.

Some boards are a little "squirrely", that's when I use clamps to rip. Say I'm milling wide trim stock, and there is a bow in the board that makes part of the board not touch the table, clamp it. If you don't, you'll get a vibration that yields a rough cut. I use DeStaTo toggle clamps that I rigged to fit the table groove, fast and easy.

[mark mcfarlane]

Thanks. So it sounds like a cabinet saw along with a track saw would be a better way to go if you can't afford a true slider.

Marshall, I hope I don't take your post out of comment, but I wanted to add a note to others reading this thread.

I think there is a common misconception that the 'real value' in a slider is when cutting sheet goods. I don't think that is accurate. Sliders are nice for cutting sheet goods, but they are so much more. Sure, a Lexus has a great cupholder, but that's not all...

With a fritz and Franz jig and/or some parallel guides (the fritz and Franz can be used as parallel guides), I haven't found a hardwood cut that can't be made accurately, quickly, and safely (I do use a SCMS for cutting down 12' hardwood boards). Once the machine is dialed in you can just walk over and cut any part you need, sized to within a fraction of a mm, in a few seconds. Huge parts, small parts,... I moved to a slider about 9 months ago and all I can say is 'mostly pure joy'.

I does, as Jim said, take some initial time/thought when you first want to make a new kind of cut, but after you get your technique figured out it is fast, safe, and a joy. There are a ton of references on SMC and YouTube where you can get a quick answer about different cut types.

FWIW, I suggest that a Fritz and Franz jig might be the best 'first thing' to make when commissioning a new slider. They are great for holding small parts, and ripping, and,... You can start with a very simple one, then you will want to make a fancier one.

[mark mcfarlane]

I simply cannot understand the need for clamps on a small slider and as I have never used a big slaider/panel saw I have no idea about the need on one of those. The F&F jig is in reality a clamp so maybe I need to rephrase that comment.

For me,... clamps hold the work steady so I am ensured a straight, accurate cut. Clamps also hold the work so I can stand 2 feet away and push the outrigger through a cut, standing no where near the blade or the 'ejecta' back side of the blade. I keep the clamp on my slider and pretty much clamp everything. It just takes a few seconds. With pneumatic clamps (perhaps some day), it is even faster. I sometimes use a separate clamp for rips with the Fritz and Franz jig, if one will fit easily. This is just a habit I have gotten into, clamp anything that can be reasonably clamped in a few seconds.

[Jon Snider]

Saw /shaper combo. There are a few threads about this, most several years old.

My my main question isn’t how much you use or like it (but certainly open to comments), rather how the change-over affects your workflow. It seems the shaper unit will get in the way of the saw function, which would be prob 80% of my use. Do you just leave shaper attachments off until need.

N.B. My question is based on a few pics and videos, never seen one (yet) live but working on it.

[Jim Becker]

I simply cannot understand the need for clamps on a small slider and as I have never used a big slaider/panel saw I have no idea about the need on one of those. The F&F jig is in reality a clamp so maybe I need to rephrase that comment.

Chris, yes...with shorter material, especially with the F&F, clamps really are not needed when you've got flat material. They do make it easier if you're ripping longer stock. One could use a ripping shoe, too, so they only need to "hold" one end. One other advantage to clamping, however, is it totally gets any body parts very far away from the cut. How fast one wants to work matters, too. I'm kewel with taking my time for the kind of work I do, but someone doing production will likely prefer faster/simpler. Lots of choices!

[John Sanford]

I have used a few times a slider saws and read a lot about them... they are better than traditional cabinet saws for almost all, with important exceptions the size and price. I have no space for one of those toys in my tiny workshop to replace my contractor saw and I am not sure if I would have the courage to put the money to purchase one of them... please be aware, as most of the stuff, there are cheap versions also for slider saws and they are an invitation for headache... look for a decent slider saw (and unfortunately it will come at a price).

All the best.

While there are cheap versions of sliders (as opposed to sliding table attachments), they are almost unknown in the market here in the US. The Indian and Chinese made machines would be completely unknown were it not for the Internet revealing their presence. While it's been quite a while since I went to the AWS trade show, I don't recall there being any sliders there other than the European makers, which, as you note, "come at a price."

[John Sanford]

What about cutting tenons on the slider? On a cabinet saw, we'll frequently use a tenoning jig, is that the usual approach with a slider?

[marty fretheim]

Jon, I see your in the Springs. If you feel like a trip to Denver area I'd be glad to show you my Felder KF700S and answer any questions I can.

Marty

[Chris Parks]

Jon, I see your in the Springs. If you feel like a trip to Denver area I'd be glad to show you my Felder KF700S and answer any questions I can.

Marty

Jon, feel free to do the same if you want to see mine, a plane ticket will sort it out and i live very close to one of those surfing beaches.

[Jon Snider]

Thx Marty. PM sent

Chris, I’ll be sure to drop by next time I’m heading to the Gong.

[marty fretheim]

Jon, feel free to do the same if you want to see mine, a plane ticket will sort it out and i live very close to one of those surfing beaches.

I gotta ask. Does your cyclone DC spin the opposite direction as mine?

Marty

[Jim Becker]

What about cutting tenons on the slider? On a cabinet saw, we'll frequently use a tenoning jig, is that the usual approach with a slider?

If you want to cut them on the slide, it's not a difficult task to adapt the jig that holds the material vertically onto the slider wagon. That said, cutting the shoulders on the slider using the miter fence and then doing the remainder on the bandsaw is a great alternative...