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Thread: DIY or off-the-shelf Z table?

  1. #1

    DIY or off-the-shelf Z table?

    My laser doesn't have an adjustable Z table (you move the focus cone) and I'd like to add one to it. I'm looking for a Z table that can support around a 900 x 600 mm table. I'm making my own frame for it so external space isn't a big deal.

    LightObject used to make one that would have worked, but they stopped producing it. Have any of you seen another off-the-shelf Z axis solution, or perhaps rigged up your own? I can certainly DIY it but I'd rather not invent the wheel if there is one I could buy or at least some plans I could follow.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Did you check eBay?
    Retired Guy- Central Iowa.HVAC/R , Cloudray Galvo Fiber , -Windows 10

  3. #3
    Yep, been all over Ebay. Sometimes there are tables I could repurpose from other pieces of equipment but they're hard to find. I never see the LO one come up with one exception and I was outbid. I spoke with their CS people and apparently they only made like 50 of them and they weren't popular, so they're not doing any more.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    Hello .... here's one on Aliexpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Adju...794143267.html
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  5. #5
    Avoid belt drive on big tables, anything 600 x 900 upwards and you will have problems, chain drive is the way to go
    You did what !

  6. #6
    When I bought my Triumph I went as cheap as possible, which meant a stationary table. I could definitely use one, but the inner walls are tapered/funnel shaped so that won't happen. However, not having a moving table turned out to be quite a bonus, for me anyway- there's a 'junk drawer' at the bottom of the machine...
    DSC03837 (Custom).JPG
    below that the actual bottom, which I cut out, leaving a 12 x 18" hole.
    DSC03836 (Custom).JPG
    The lip holding the drawer is still there so it works normally. With the drawer out, I can now engrave anything that will fit thru the hole up to 38" tall--
    Like these large aluminum enclosures...
    DSC03830 (Custom).JPG

    Or the leather handles of these ridiculously priced suitcases
    ebby6.jpg

    The tapered sides also allow for me to use whatever I have handy as a makeshift table,
    like this piece of plywood, to which I've attached clamps to that hold cowbells for Cermarking.
    (there's now a third clamp since this pic was taken)...
    ll1.jpg
    The plywood is fairly level for my purposes, but as you can see above I do have a basic 2-ton bottle jack that sits in the drawer under the plywood, I use it to tweak the front-to-back level so the bells in all three clamps are in focus...

    And to help with focusing with this setup, Triumph made me up some lens tubes in various longer lengths
    lenstubes.jpg

    for quickie weird jobs too tall or big for the plywood table I can just make a quickie table using some 1x2's across the bottom and some aluminum plate, level the table a bit, level the part, grab the lens tube I can focus with and I'm good to go. I can do much more with this machine this way than I could with a moving table
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Sheldrake View Post
    Avoid belt drive on big tables, anything 600 x 900 upwards and you will have problems, chain drive is the way to go
    I would agree. My 1300x900 has two drives, both belt and while they don't slip teeth, they DO get out of sync quite often and I have to reset. Only a mm at most, but enough if I'm using large area to really make a difference between cutting and not.
    Use one drive and a chain.
    Woodworking, Old Tools and Shooting
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  8. #8
    Thanks for the input guys. I'm wavering now on whether to go with a fixed base (and get some long tubes!) or try to make something. I'm inclined towards making something cause it sounds kinda fun but then again I have too many projects already 99% of my work is within an inch of height, so it's probably not worth it in the long run. If I do end up making something I'll post it here

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Sheldrake View Post
    Avoid belt drive on big tables, anything 600 x 900 upwards and you will have problems, chain drive is the way to go
    I guess it depends on the manufacturer and the parts they use. My GCC Explorer, 38" x 20", was belt driven and it didn't skip a tooth in the 9 years I had it and it hasn't, as far as I know, skipped any for Kev who has been using it since I sold it to him. It's 12 years old this year.

  10. #10
    The GCC table still runs up/down like new.

    The Triumph table, which I remove and put back often, weighs probably 60 pounds or more, not sure if the moveable honeycomb versions are lighter, but I would imagine with belt or chain drive, a Briggs & Stratton would be better suited to move the thing than any stepper motor!
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


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