Need your help with a "Donor Wall" project!

[Bill Stearns]

Hi ALL
I’ve been asked to participate in a major project that’ll require creative, unorthodox, out-of-the-box thinkin’; where better to turn than SMC! I am working with an artist-type guy who’s been asked to design, create ‘n install a “donor recognition wall” for a local Foundation. I’ll describe the proposed concept, best I can.


Individual custom made wooden “plaques” of ‘bout 8 or 10 different sizes will be engraved with donors’ names; which is my part of this guy’s project. (‘bout 206 plaques; sizes ranging from 4” x 4” up to ‘bout 12” x 16”.)
These plaques are to be mounted to a large backing that’ll hang on the wall. At this point, he’s considering sheets of plywood - covered/surfaced with thin, burnished bronze sheeting. (Someone suggested we look into MDF material, ‘stead? - any thoughts ‘bout this, or alternatives to plywood you’d suggest?)
First, two points: He wants these plaques to be hung, projecting out from the wall at different dimensional levels, ‘stead of all flat to the wall. Second, and this is the stickler”! - he doesn’t want anything showing on the plaque fronts. (as with the use of metal stand-offs or such.)


All I can think is that he use various length blind mount studs projecting from behind each plaque.- an incredible amount of precision work ‘n drilling; right? (BTW: I am familair with the standard methods of hanging plaques - like Gemini brass ‘n bronze, etc.)


So, now! - my question! Can you think of some other creative way to mount these plaques dimensionally? - without stand-offs, without studs? - some creative, yet secure, way to make them “float” across the wall?


Boy! I can’t wait to hear from you all! (I’d be a Hero!) - and, I can sure use the sale! - BILL

[david b west]

float mount on different thicknesses of clear acrylic

[Bill Carruthers]

Maybe cut wood dowels (perhaps 10-12 mm)to varying lengths in sets of 4 and glue them to the plaques set in sufficiently from the plaque edge to be invisible - then glue them to the backing sheet in the desired pattern while it is lying on the floor. Just a thought.

[Bert Kemp]

Clear acrylic rod 1/4" drilled and glued into the plaque and wall

[David Takes]

I would use French Cleats and varying thicknesses of wood behind the wall-side cleat. Set the cleat inside the edge to where it is out of view.

[Brian Lamb]

I use a lot of the Command picture hanging stuff for smaller plaques I sell. I've tested some in the home and they have been hanging for years with no issues.

https://www.officedepot.com/a/produc...SABEgJeufD_BwE

[Mike Null]

I like David's suggestion of French cleats. Easy, cheap and variable.

[Brian Lamb]

Monarch makes a lot of Z-clips, an aluminum version of a french cleat. I've used them for hanging heavier items like mirrors and such. They have standoff's and accessories too.

http://www.monarchmetal.com/products...ural-profiles/

[Kev Williams]

what I'd do-

First, lay out the entire award board in Corel, draw everything in actual size, put every plate where it will be on the finished wall, mark each plate size. When done, count how many of each size, etc...

How to hang: a single 1-1/2" wood dowel for the smaller plates, a single 2" dowel for the midsize plates, and two dowels for the larger plates. Very easy to cut to various lengths, and a wood planer could square the ends nicely. They'll work great, and be totally invisible...

Next, I'd make backing plates out of 3/8" MDF, one for each plaque. They can be the same size, or slightly under the actual plaque size.

Once all the dowels and backing plates are cut, they can be installed on the wall anytime. Just drill & countersink the backer so the screwheads will be flush or under. Paper patterns of all the plaques can be cut and taped to wall to make sure everything looks right. From there the dowels and backers can be screwed to the wall in place of the patterns Nice thing about a single mounting screw, all the smaller plates will be very easy to level up....

The plaques themselves can just be 1/4" alder, walnut, cherry, whatever you want, or mix 'n match. Engrave away, take to the wall, and I can't think of anything better than good old contact cement for mounting the plaques to the backers; brush on both pieces, wait 10 minutes and stick 'em together...

This may or may not make sense
mounted.jpg

[John Lifer]

I just engraved 65 4"x12, 6"x12 and 8"x12" all 1 1/2" thick walnut plaques (was about a dozen large, 24 medium and remainder small plaques which were dependent on the gifts given. (the quarter million up got large, the 25K to 250K got medium and the ones above 5K got small. The guy I did them for provided the plaques and I engraved and paint filled them. He uses his Scrap wood for fill in. Looks like he put up some large ply first, then nailed the random and then the plaques. The plaques all appear to sit on the smaller pieces for some extra support. He nailed them to the wall, I would have just glued, but being a kids camp, I expect nailing is necessary......
Wall is about 8'x24' as best I can determine. This was his third that I know of. And tends to go over quite well. Nothing is finished btw. And the filling of the unfinished walnut was quite a trip.
I figured it out, but took a bit of extra time. Rub mask down really well, and use heavy acrylic enamel paint and brush into engraving. two coats...

wall1.jpg
wall3.jpg

wall2.jpg

[Bill Stearns]

FROM BILL - Thanks you all for these wonderfully helpful ideas! Especially, those who took the time to include diagrams 'n photos. I’m passing ‘em along to the young fellow who’s going to be creating ‘n installing this donor recognition wall. (‘fore this, I never knew what a “French cleat” was; seems to me, with two hundred or more plaques, they’d be far more practical to install than blind-mount studs, or acrylic rods being used; we’ll see what he thinks. Also: the idea of mounting these plaques to an MDF backing would solve the problem of our having to have the larger plaques glued in strips to avoid warping. right? Wouldn’t you know, the Foundation doesn’t want thinner ‘n thicker plaques used to create the varied dimensional depths - so the French cleat idea may be the answer.

We’ll see how it goes ... got' a say, you folks are incredible! - BILL

[John Blazy]

I can't believe no one mentioned keyhole slots for common wood screws. Carbide keyhole slot cutter to cut three or four keyhole slots in the plaque, then screws sticking out from wall the desired distance space from back. Run aluminum standoff around each screw if you don't want to see the threads.

[Glen Monaghan]

The problem with French cleats is that they simply hold the plaques in place by gravity. In other words, anyone could just walk up, grab a plaque, and remove it. Some of the other suggestions aren't much more secure. If there is any concern about such "vandalism", you have to either use a "permanent" solution (such as glueing in place) or an obscure mount (something that isn't obvious how it attaches and/or uses a method that requires a tool that isn't commonly available; the latter might involve a so-called security screw whose head requires a driver other than slotted, phillips, square or star).

[David Takes]

If more security is desired, adhesive could easily be applied to the French cleats. Regardless of how the plaques are secured, if a person wants to vandalize or steal them, they could easily do it.

[Gary Hair]

If more security is desired, adhesive could easily be applied to the French cleats. Regardless of how the plaques are secured, if a person wants to vandalize or steal them, they could easily do it.

That's exactly what I did a couple of years ago for a library donor wall - French cleats top and bottom and construction adhesive. The cleats made installation a breeze and the adhesive made it virtually permanent!