How are you using your CNC machines

[Jim Becker]

Where can we see the videos? Any link?

Cheers

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCG7...vx0mc9m9mZtatA

[Adam Bullington]

I just made this box for my wife. It is a prototype but made out of one piece of wood no joints at all except where the box lid meets the bottom. It is 5.25 W x 10 L x 2.5 deep white oak. still in rough form not been sanded yet but it took 22 min on my shopsabre IS 408 10hp atcLove Box 1.jpgLove Box 2.jpg I have since produced 4 more and have reduced the time to 13 min total processing time

[Jim Becker]

That's a really nice design, Adam...great for a wide variety of box uses!

[Adam Bullington]

The lid is hollowed out too just like the bottom it will accommodate about a 1 7/8 tall item when fully closed

[Adam Bullington]

I would be glad to share the file if you want it?

[Jim Becker]

I would be glad to share the file if you want it?

I'd absolutely love to try out the file. I would be a nice bases for several things I'm thinking of doing and your method of just milling it out of a thick board is brilliant!

[Adam Bullington]

pm me your info and i'll send it over

[Bill George]

What format is it in? I would be interested also.

[Adam Bullington]

Bill, It is designed in Vcarve Pro pm me your info and ill email it over.

[Mark Bolton]

Interested in what tool your using for the hollowing and flat bottom? Is it flip/2 sided machining for the lid (recess to fit the gallery in the base and is there a recess on the bottom or just flat?).

We run some products with deep recesses like that and always looking for core box type bits that leave little to no cleanup in the base.

Nice work.

[Brad Shipton]

Mark, these (https://www.vortextool.com/index.cfm...DEEAF28DB02DFF) leave the bottom of a pocket very smooth. They have a small rad at the outer edges of the cutter, and that eliminates the lines with typical spiral cutters.

[Klaus Madsen]

Thanks Jim.

[Adam Bullington]

Mark,

I used a 3/8" downcut to hollow out the lid and bottom with a final profile cut full depth taking off 3/16 with a 3/8 ballnose which gives you the small 3/16 radius on the bottom section of the pocket. The "Love" side of the lid was done first then the whole 5.25x22x1.25 board was flipped and then the hollowed box bottom and underside of the lid was done all together. I am willing to sent the files to whoever wants to try it. just PM me with your info. All I ask is you give feedback on what you think and any good or bad points you may see. Thanks

[Ted Reischl]

I use mine for lots of stuff. Recently:

Thing on a CNC Router.jpg

Those are parts for a wooden clock. It is Brian Law's Clock 22. 14 gears, ratchets, etc. Sure, yup, it can be done on a scroll saw. If you do not mind sitting and staring at one spot for untold hours.

Here is another simple thing I did after buying a compound slide for the lathe. It had a damaged ball crank on the compound, it was not very usable and I have not found one yet on line. So I made this one up:

New Crank.jpg

You can see it on the right hand edge, I need one like is on the opposite side of the pic.

The crank is 1/2 aluminum. Bored the hole and profiled the outside, also bored the hole for the tap holding the handle.

Oh, I had a slab of mahogany that was all warped out of shape. About 14 X 30 X 2. I put it on the router, stuck in a 1.5 dia bit and flattened it. The mahogany can be seen in the first picture, it is what all the pieces are piled on. I cut half laps to get good grain orientation and will be doing a lot of machining to those frames as soon as all the bearings arrive.

A cnc router is a really handy machine to have in the shop. I built my own, it is pretty much mostly CNC Router Parts stuff. I saved a few bucks by sourcing some of the more common stuff locally.