18 ft long table....

[Mike Hoyt]

Morning, I was looking for some opinions on how this could be tackled. Ive been asked to consider building a very large table (3' x 18') and Im trying to figure out all the logistics of such an undertaking. Ive done several in the 4x9 range but 18 ft long is a completely different animal. My biggest concern is jointing for the top. The rest of it is pretty straightforward. It needs to match and existing table that is white pine so I was thinking to limit the amount of joining to be done I could use just 2 pieces or even source 1 big slab. All thoughts on how to tackle this welcome.

Thanks
Mike

[Prashun Patel]

People want what people want.

But I cannot think of any commercial or residential situation that would not be better served with two 9-foot tables. This will give you far wider, more economical choices in lumber, will be easier to make, and will be easier to manipulate by the customer.

[Jim Becker]

I agree with Prashun...a modular approach to this kind of surface is "functionally" a better solution long term. But if you the client requires it to be one, big, long, happy table, you have your work cut out for you! In that case...and assuming you have the ability to work with very long and heavy material in your shop, starting with reclaimed beams might be a good choice. They will be old and most likely very dry/stable. You'll probably have to work the surfaces by hand, however, given the length and ultimate width. Charge accordingly...

[Mike Hoyt]

I considered the 2 table option but they wanted a large emblem/decal in the middle of the table also so that kinda axed the thought of 2, I may propose 3 6 footers which will better accommodate the center emblem idea but may detract from the wow factor of a larger single piece. With warmer weather upon us up here in Maine I would have the ability to manipulate the planer to make it work as far as space goes. I just hate to agree to the project and not be able to pull it off.

[Jamie Buxton]

Don't run the boards in the top the long way. Run them across the table. That way you have to joint edges that are four feet or less. Of course, you have to solve a big hygroscopic shinkage problem, but that can be done -- sliding ways underneath, or big wooden "figure-eight" fasteners.

Does your client think the table will have just four legs at the corners? If so, the long stretchers are going to have to be 2x6 at least, and 2x8 would be better. So diners may have trouble getting their legs under the stretchers. If they are willing to allow legs in the middle of the 18' span, the stretchers get more normal. Of course, if they will allow legs in the middle of the span, there's precious little difference between this and Prashun's suggestion of two nine-foot tables. And of course, the 9-footers are pretty straightforward.

[Jamie Buxton]

I considered the 2 table option but they wanted a large emblem/decal in the middle of the table also so that kinda axed the thought of 2, I may propose 3 6 footers which will better accommodate the center emblem idea but may detract from the wow factor of a larger single piece. With warmer weather upon us up here in Maine I would have the ability to manipulate the planer to make it work as far as space goes. I just hate to agree to the project and not be able to pull it off.

How 'bout two tables, like Prashun says, and an emblem on each one? The clients get flexibility in use, and you get a project which is buildable.

[Pat Barry]

Is there room to move in a 18 ft long top? I think you need to plan that the table will be built in your shop to a finished state, then disassembled, moved, and reassembled. I can see this being 3 sections with the emblem in the center. Perhaps you can share the support structure between them to mimimize legs, etc. I think that a laminated structure, think plywood plus veneer would be the way to go for the top. No reason to be real lumber.

[Marshall Harrison]

There are a few Youtube videos on building really long tables like that. You may be able to get some ideas from them. If you can't find the videos then PM me and I'll find the links and send them to you.

Also someone else asked about doing this a month or two ago so a search of SWC may also give you some help.

[Mark Bolton]

We did a 14' table a while back that was no real issue. I wouldnt have a problem going 18 but sourcing the material would be a challenge for me in Pine. We were a bit lucky in that this was a trestle style table so it was easy to have a third support. This table went into a large great room in a home we built (room was a single wide open space, 35'w x 54' long) and in all honesty it could easily have been bigger and not been a problem in the space.

Our construction was conventional breadboard end top and a large beefy trestle base. It would seem the design style of the table would be the first consideration and then the construction details would follow.

Sounds like a fun project.

[Marshall Harrison]

There are a few Youtube videos on building really long tables like that. You may be able to get some ideas from them. If you can't find the videos then PM me and I'll find the links and send them to you.

Also someone else asked about doing this a month or two ago so a search of SWC may also give you some help.

Weird. I'm sure I remember replying to a thread like this before but I've searched all the posts from both of my accounts and I can't find it. Its the opposite of deja vu. Seems like i was remembering something from the future but I don't suppose that that is possible. Strange.

[Edwin Santos]

Hi,
Are we talking about a table used for dining? Or maybe a conference type table? What type of base - trestle, pedestal, corner legs? Echoing the comment above, what are the logistical limitations for transportation and field conditions in terms of moving something that large into the final installation space?

I would be thinking about a job like this not with the mentality of a furniture craftsman but rather with the mentality of the countertop guys. Which is to say, build the top in three 6ft sections with the grain running longitudinal and join them in the field with (not glued) alignment dowels and countertop bolts. As long as your grain is longitudinal, wood movement will not be fighting the countertop bolts.

The base could basically be two separate bases installed such that the span in the middle approximates a third base. In fact, you could join the two bases with two faux aprons in the field with bed bolts, same with lower stretchers if you're using them. Depending on how you size the overhang on the ends, you could design this so the seams in the top land on the base rails which would be my preference.

When you're done, you have a single 18ft table with four pairs of legs and three equal spaces between them. Oh, and of course you would install the emblem in the center top. With all bolts tightened up very snugly, the whole assembly should be very rigid.
Hope these ideas are helpful to you.
Edwin

[Mel Fulks]

We don't have much information. How will it be used? When Laffayette came back to US in 1824 one of the dinners in his honor had a table 30 feet long. Had a working model of a canal with running water. But I have no doubt that the table was a simple take apart and store design. Or a use the wood for something else design.

[Frank Drackman]

I made a 14 foot table with double pedestals and a frame that connected them and was the base for the table. It allowed for no legs to interfere with seating along with no stretchers near the edge of the table for legs to hit.

[Bill Dufour]

I would be thinking a welded iron frame with the wood sitting on top or even dadoes so the metal is buried inside the wood. Like a torsion box. The legs can be all wood or wood sandwiched around metal legs.
plan the design carefully so it can be moved into the room. Are there corners to go around in the building?
Bill D.

[Bradley Gray]

I made 2 16' tables for a restaurant about 20 years ago. Both had 4 legs with 2 x 8" stretchers and about 2' of overhang on each end.

One was made of 16' boards edge glued.the other was made of 10' and 6' pieces with the end joints staggered.

The trickiest part was delivery. I made a 12' ramp for the back of a pickup with an 8' bed so one of the overhangs went over the cab.