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Thread: Adjusting Hammer K3 rip fence?

  1. #1
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    Adjusting Hammer K3 rip fence?

    Uing the rip fence to cut a 1200mm length of MDF, I found the result was 0.5mm out. I have adjusted Biesemeyer fences in the past, but cannot see how to adjust this Hammer rip fence. Anyone help?



    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  2. #2
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    The tape is adjustable at the right hand end, ignore reading, make a cut and measure, adjust tape to the cut measurement. If you mean end to end on the 1200 length you need to adjust the threaded stud lengths that fix the fence bar to the machine which then changes the fence alignment angle to the blade.
    Last edited by Chris Parks; 04-14-2018 at 10:15 PM.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  3. #3
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    If you mean end to end on the 1200 length you need to adjust the threaded stud lengths that fix the fence bar to the machine which then changes the fence alignment angle to the blade.
    That's what I thought, Chris. I was hoping for a simpler and less invasive method, such as on the base of the grip, as per the Biesemeyer.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  4. #4
    My Minimax has a similar rip fence adjustment. The owner's manual is very clear in stating the adjustment was made at the factory and should not be touched in the field. The SCM tech who commissioned my saw wouldn't touch it, but fortunately it appeared to be properly aligned.

  5. #5
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    Unfortunately when Hammer export their saws the owner has to fit the fence himself or at least I had to.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    Unfortunately when Hammer export their saws the owner has to fit the fence himself or at least I had to.
    The fence and rail on my saw were separate as well, but two of the studs already had a pair of lock nuts attached and a "do not touch" label on them. The remaining three studs didn't have lock nuts. The two studs with the lock nuts attached to the cast iron table, and these established the alignment of the rip fence. The other three studs attached to the extension tables to the right of the cast iron table and were snugged up after the first two studs were tightened.

  7. #7
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    Hi, if you mean the fence isn't parallel to the blade it can be adjusted in 2 ways.

    1) adjust the fence rail with respect to the edge of the table via the guide bar bolts. (Recommended)

    2) Adjust the 2 forward reference bolts on the fence head that the aluminum extrusion butts against (not recommended).

    Regards, Rod.

  8. #8
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    Thanks Mike and Rod.

    I came across this video on Youtube (the presenter lives in Perth!) ...



    It's not a Hammer/Felder, and adjusts differently, but there are good tips there.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  9. #9
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    He does a short series, I don't know why but I presumed you had seen them.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  10. #10
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    Chris, I had seen them, and then re-discovered them on a recent Google search.

    The fellow lives about 30 minutes up the freeway from me. Sounds like a Kiwi.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    Hi, if you mean the fence isn't parallel to the blade it can be adjusted in 2 ways.

    1) adjust the fence rail with respect to the edge of the table via the guide bar bolts. (Recommended)

    2) Adjust the 2 forward reference bolts on the fence head that the aluminum extrusion butts against (not recommended).

    Regards, Rod.

    Mine hasn't got those Rod, I think it is a Felder head and has fine adjustment, how that came to be only Hammer knows.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    Mine hasn't got those Rod, I think it is a Felder head and has fine adjustment, how that came to be only Hammer knows.
    Thanks Chris, yes things change...............Rod.

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