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Thread: Guide System for drilling bench etc. holes LR 32/Festool

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    44,852
    That's a bummer, Mike...you really do want a real 20mm cutter for the holes so that the dogs work as they are designed. They are all a few thou under so they slip in and out; some more snuggly than others. 21mm makes for major sloppy!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Milton, GA
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    3,158
    I called LV again about the continuing issues I am having drilling accurate holes in bench tops. I talked to a very nice lady and we finally decided I needed to send an email with actual invoice and part numbers, which I have done. No responce yet.

    One of the problems I am finding is router bushings and router bits are not typically designed to drill through thick bench tops. The Parf guide kit and the LV bushings explain in the directions that they can drill trough a 2” top. Unfortunately most bench tops these days are much thicker 3-5”. The top for my Noden bench will be two sheets of 3/4 ply and a sacrificial 3/4” piece of MDF, making it over 2”. Parts of the top have 1 1/2” 2x under the plywood. I plan to make my main hardwood bench at least 3 1/2” thick.

    I understand the value of the Festool hole matrix and the accuracy and utility it provides. It just seems like there is no real system for drilling holes in a bench top with that same degree of accuracy. I guess one could start the holes with a Parf guide or router and bushing and then finish the holes with an appropriate sized auger drill bit, but my guess is that would introduce some inacuracy that might throw the matrix off. It seems the answer is some sort of jig designed to work with auger bits.

    The main issue I seem to have identified is, Wood Owl may or may not make a 20mm drill bit, which seems very odd. LV stocks a 3/4” which is actually 19mm. The next size is 13/16, which is actually 21mm. The regular Wood Owl Ultra Smooth drill bits are 7.5” long, which can drill through 3-5” bench tops, without causing any significant tear out. The drill bits LV sells, when used in their bushings ( designed to be used in 1 1/2” stock) may not be long enough. The Parf guide is designed to work with specific bit shafts. I see no way to use regular auger bits with with the Parf guide. I have checked a few other suppliers of Wood Owl bits. The imperical equivalent chart seems to skip over a 20mm bit.

  3. #18
    This system is plenty easy to use, accurate, and repeatable.

    https://www.festoolproducts.com/rout...CABEgJysvD_BwE

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    44,852
    Mike, I suspect if you use the Parf system or a router setup, there will be a deep enough hole for you to use a good quality spade bit to complete the hole through to the bottom. The hole will act as a guide for the bit. As long as the top couple inches are clean, you'll be good for the dogs.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Milton, GA
    Posts
    3,158
    Thanks for tha link Dave,
    So the jig you link to appears to use a 30mm router drilling ring and 20mm router bit to make holes in Festool table tops. I suspect that it would work if employed as Jim suggests above, to start a hole that an auger, spade or Fostner bit with extender could then drill to full depth.

    The jig you reference appears to be manufacturerd to the same tolerances as Festool offerings, so I assumed it would be as accurate. I may have to go that route as I am not finding such a jig, designed to work with Auger bits. The Parf system uses Fostner bits which may have the same depth limitations as router based systems, maybe a little deeper.

    I have a drill press, which may lower an auger or Fostner bit accurately enough to to not bugger up the exatly 20mm hole, exactly positioned.

    The Parf system looks like it winds up costing $250 for everything needed. My issue is I am having trouble shelling out the money for a bunch of pieces that only solve a single issue. Dave’s recomendation costs half as much and requires less parts, which would be nice. Still trying to figure out if both systems require the same amount of set up complication. I am thinking Dave’s sloution may require a little less complicated set up. I am also calculating on what kinds of drill bits I want to maintain sets of: Augers vs Fostners vs Brad Points.......Also calculating on whether or not I need the accuracy of a Festool table on the hole grid of a heavy workbench.
    Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 05-20-2018 at 1:00 PM.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    473
    If in your shoes I would find a cabinet shop with a CNC router and see what they will charge to do all the holes for you. Keep in mind the hole doesn't need to be 20mm all the way through, you can back drill with a larger bit for the remaining thickness.

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