Hammer weight

[steven c newman]

Is it "bad" when one has a til for hammers?
hammers.jpg
At least for the shop hammers.....There are two 24oz framers sitting around...somewhere. I prefer wood handles...less wear and tear on me.

[Andrew Seemann]

Gee wiz, and I thought my two dozen hammers was indicative of a problem.

Until my 30s, the only size hammers I had ever used were 16 oz straight claws (excepting tack hammers and sledge hammers), because that was the only size anyone in the family had ever owned. Then I ran short of hammers for my crew of relatives working on my garage and discovered the hammer section of the hardware store. . . .

I like a 20 oz Estwing for general framing. I have a 24 oz for special needs, but I don't like swinging it all day, too hard on the elbow and arm. 16 oz Estwing straight claw for general use in the shop and when I know I won't be doing much 16d and above. The biggest revelation was the 12 oz Estwing curved claw. I like that one in the shop for smaller nails for long periods of time, much easier on the elbow because you don't have to pull the weight of the heavier hammer when you set the nail. Also picked up a used 10 oz Plumb straight claw at some point, that is nice for larger brads.

The above does not include ball peen hammers, tack hammers, sledge hammers, blacksmith hammers, rubber hammers, wooden hammers, misc used hammers or mallets. I do like me a good hammer. Maybe I have closer to 3 or 4 dozen now that I think of it.

[Jim Koepke]

Just curious as to the value of that over a tape in laying out a wall. Seems the potential accumulated error in measuring incrementally could be high for more than a stud or two.

JKJ

Not sure with many framing jobs if there is a big problem with this. It is a good check to have during a framing job. Most of the time the bottom plate and top plate would be marked out with a tape and then nailed together. If a mark is unclear or scuffed a carpenter can check with the hammer.

Some might use it to lay out a whole wall, but not likely.

jtk

[Roger Nair]

A 16 inch overall length is not used for layout, period. The handle length becomes a handy indicator of where to find a stud, rafter or joist, when nailing down sheet goods that may not have any layout on the plywood. In time a hand-eye gauge develops and banging in nails goes apace.

[Roger Nair]

One other thing, for framing, there seems to be a preference for Estwing hammers, speaking from my own experience, the solid steel Estwings will wear on the joints from shock. please investigate wooden handled hammers with a head weight around 20 ounces. Put friction tape on the handle and use a loose grip, the hammer will stick to the hand. Allow the wrist to bend. A good swing overall is a loose free movement, with multiple points of rotation but try to keep twisting at a minimum.

[Tom M King]

The grip is what puts shock on the arm. It doesn't need to be tight. On my most used hammer (Estwing) the heel corner of the grip is worn rounded from the palm of my hand. For big swings, I only have two or three fingers around the end of the handle, and it rotates freely in the palm of my hand. I find the Estwings less tiring because it puts the energy into the nail, and doesn't lose any to the handle. I almost can't use a figerglass handle because it tires me out faster.

I'm 67, and still working. I've been doing this for a living for 44 years now, and have no trouble with my joints. I still enjoy working, but am afraid that if I stop, I might actually become my age.

I have known old carpenters with arthritis, who would only use a 12oz. hammer with a wooden handle, but they couldn't pound nails for long anyway.

[Tony Zaffuto]

I like hammers and accummulating vintage tools. With that said, I have lots of hammers. My favorite, though, up to a few months ago was a German made 16 oz. cross pein, with a square head. But, I picked up an Estwing 10 or 12oz. At a Home Depot and that little hammer has got it all!

Though for carpentry work, I will use a 16oz. Plumb curve claw, with a hickory handle.

[steven c newman]

The "bad" part...I am unable to hold onto the Estwing blue handles......they all seem to fly out of my hand. Uncle Arthur (itis) has made things like those handles hard to hold onto. Even a coping saw is hard to hold.

Did concrete form work for a long time. Found a framer with a LONG, FAT wood handle seemed to fit my hand the best. 10 pound sledge hammer? I cut the handle on mine down to 24"....both for the reduced arc of the swing ( not a whole lot of room in a foundation's trench) and for the way it fit to my hands.

There is a Vintage riveting hammer in that til. Cross pean, with a square head, best dang hammer for brads, small nails, and even adjusting a plane. I also keep a 16oz curved claw Plumb with a hickory handle in the shop. Have another upstairs in the Household Tools drawer. Ball peans in about 5 different weights. And a few other BP hammers in the Household drawer ( auto work) There is a 3 pounder cross pean long handled for use outside the house...stakes and such. two wooden mallets, one was custom made to fit my hands. No rubber nor deadblow hammers. There is a Carpenter's Hatchet...somewhere....have used it a few times.

The two framers? set aside until the next big project..both of them. They were also known as "War Clubs" ......may get a picture of them..sometime. They could "start" a 7 penny nail with one hit, and drive it flush to the wood with the second hit. I tended to use the entire arm in the swing, not the elbow.

[Mike Null]

My favorite for the workbench and small fix it stuff is my Vaughan 10 oz straight claw. I had a 16 oz steel with leather handle Vaughan that disappeared. That was a nice hammer. I have several including a Hart trimmer 20 oz. I only go to it if I need more heft.

[Stanley Covington]

A directly related question for those that swing hammers professionally.

I have owned and used a titanium catspaw for some years now. It was pricey, but I am generally happy with its performance when pulling small nails. It is really not sized for anything bigger than 8d. As a permanent resident of the tool belt, the reduced weight as is a big plus, although it doesn't seem to dig out nails as aggressively as steel.

But I have never used the lightweight titanium hammers like the Stiletto. Do they perform as well as their steel counterparts?

Does the titanium provide any shock reduction benefit to hand/arm joints?

Stan

[Rob Luter]

My main nail drivers are a 22oz Estwing Leather Handle claw and a 28oz Estwing milled face framing hammer. I have 14 striking tools in total. It helps to have the right one for the job. I've recently discovered japanese style hammers and am thinking about adding a couple.

[Patrick Walsh]

Stan,

I was previously a site carpenter.

I suffer with pretty bad carpal tunnel in my wrist. Both the weight and shock absorption of the titanium stiletto hammers really really helped me.

The hammers do get beat up and I have chipped a claw or two. I have even taken a chunk out of the head. You quickly learn to grab another tool fir general purposes I suppose.

Previously and given the severity of my carpal tunnel I just accepted the chipping and purchased a new hammer when need be.

I would say the hammers are well worth the price if you suffere joint, muscle or tendon problems...

[Warren Lake]

Stanley from the guys ive spoken to the answer is yes. I have the mini 14 and the nail puller on that is outstanding. Its light in the belt The handle is way too small plus ive decided I dont like the curved handle, their latest version they made the handle larger. I was in a shop closing and there was a finishing hammer but it had an extra large head and a quickly made wood handle that was larger. It felt excellent. Have a Douglas stainless head that handle is very comfortable but again put the stiletto grip on as ive got no use for a slippery handle. The air grip thing is sort of sticky but feels good end result you dont have to hold on the hammer very hard which helps when you are using it alot. One thing I look at is head size for that construction type work I want a larger head, one good carpenter i know said his ideal hammer would have a head like a frying pan.

[Stanley Covington]

Stanley from the guys ive spoken to the answer is yes. I have the mini 14 and the nail puller on that is outstanding. Its light in the belt The handle is way too small plus ive decided I dont like the curved handle, their latest version they made the handle larger. I was in a shop closing and there was a finishing hammer but it had an extra large head and a quickly made wood handle that was larger. It felt excellent. Have a Douglas stainless head that handle is very comfortable but again put the stiletto grip on as ive got no use for a slippery handle. The air grip thing is sort of sticky but feels good end result you dont have to hold on the hammer very hard which helps when you are using it alot. One thing I look at is head size for that construction type work I want a larger head, one good carpenter i know said his ideal hammer would have a head like a frying pan.

Thanks, Warren. I will get a titanium head.

The handle always makes a big difference, doesn't it. I am a big fan of making my own handles.

Stan

[Stanley Covington]

Stan,

I was previously a site carpenter.

I suffer with pretty bad carpal tunnel in my wrist. Both the weight and shock absorption of the titanium stiletto hammers really really helped me.

The hammers do get beat up and I have chipped a claw or two. I have even taken a chunk out of the head. You quickly learn to grab another tool fir general purposes I suppose.

Previously and given the severity of my carpal tunnel I just accepted the chipping and purchased a new hammer when need be.

I would say the hammers are well worth the price if you suffere joint, muscle or tendon problems...

Thanks Patrick.

Good to know they help. I will get one.

I had no idea Ti heads were so fragile.

Stan