Hammer weight

[Jeff Ranck]

So I have a sort of strange question. I've finally decided that I need to replace the venerable hammer I've used in my shop for nails on projects and get a new (maybe new vintage) one. As I've been looking around for what I want, I was wondering what type of weight folks used in the shop.

My go to for a general construction has always been 20 Oz. or so. In the shop, I've tended to use 16. But I'm wondering if I ought to go smaller with a 12 or maybe 8.

Not all that important of a question and I probably should just pick something and get back to work. However, I thought I'd at least take the time to ask the collective wisdom of the group.

Jeff.

[Flamone LaChaud]

If we're talking general construction (including beating apart things already nailed together) - weight is king - I go for 22-24oz. But if I'm nailing small nails into something delicate - 12oz is all I need. Large enough to do the job, small enough to not make too much of a mess if I miss.

[Jim Koepke]

There are three nailing hammers in my shop. A small one for 4d nails and smaller. A medium for 6d & 8d nails. Then a framing hammer for the big stuff. My recollection is the small one and the framing hammer were bought when various stores were going out of business.

Just a little note on something most people may already know, framing hammers usually are 16" or at least have two points on them that are 16" apart to aid in setting wall studs.

jtk

[Warren Lake]

some prefer the newer lighter hammers and say velocity makes up for lighter weight. They say they save their elbows and carrying around lighter weight is beneficial. Ive got a number of hammers now but the first 30 years all I had was my fathers finishing hammer., It worked fine for all in the shop and was perfect to turn sideways to use on chisels preferred it to a mallet and it was always at hand in the tool belt, some chisels as well.

One of the best features if not best is the side nail puller in the stiletto but its more for construction, the finishing hammer puller was good for shop stuff.

If you use a hammer alot id say handle comfort is a focus. I have one smaller stanley that is the real stanley. Put a stilletto air grip on it and it feels good in the hand. Find most hammer handles are made too small in diameter. one company changed them after I brought it up with them.

[John K Jordan]

T
Just a little note on something most people may already know, framing hammers usually are 16" or at least have two points on them that are 16" apart to aid in setting wall studs.

Just curious as to the value of that over a tape in laying out a wall. Seems the potential accumulated error in measuring incrementally could be high for more than a stud or two.

JKJ

[Jim Koepke]

Just curious as to the value of that over a tape in laying out a wall. Seems the potential accumulated error in measuring incrementally could be high for more than a stud or two.

JKJ

Not sure with many framing jobs if there is a big problem with this. It is a good check to have during a framing job. Most of the time the bottom plate and top plate would be marked out with a tape and then nailed together. If a mark is unclear or scuffed a carpenter can check with the hammer.

Some might use it to lay out a whole wall, but not likely.

jtk

[Roger Nair]

A 16 inch overall length is not used for layout, period. The handle length becomes a handy indicator of where to find a stud, rafter or joist, when nailing down sheet goods that may not have any layout on the plywood. In time a hand-eye gauge develops and banging in nails goes apace.

[Roger Nair]

One other thing, for framing, there seems to be a preference for Estwing hammers, speaking from my own experience, the solid steel Estwings will wear on the joints from shock. please investigate wooden handled hammers with a head weight around 20 ounces. Put friction tape on the handle and use a loose grip, the hammer will stick to the hand. Allow the wrist to bend. A good swing overall is a loose free movement, with multiple points of rotation but try to keep twisting at a minimum.

[Tom M King]

The grip is what puts shock on the arm. It doesn't need to be tight. On my most used hammer (Estwing) the heel corner of the grip is worn rounded from the palm of my hand. For big swings, I only have two or three fingers around the end of the handle, and it rotates freely in the palm of my hand. I find the Estwings less tiring because it puts the energy into the nail, and doesn't lose any to the handle. I almost can't use a figerglass handle because it tires me out faster.

I'm 67, and still working. I've been doing this for a living for 44 years now, and have no trouble with my joints. I still enjoy working, but am afraid that if I stop, I might actually become my age.

I have known old carpenters with arthritis, who would only use a 12oz. hammer with a wooden handle, but they couldn't pound nails for long anyway.

[bridger berdel]

Hammers- the other slippery slope. I probably have over 100.

the problem is that really sweet vintage hammers of all descriptions show up at the usual rust hunt holes in quantity and for ridiculously cheap prices.

[Christopher Charles]

Slippery slope indeed for an under-appreciated tool. I recommend that you do not search "gennou" on this site if you have any affinity for japanese tools.

Best,
Chris

[Jeff Ranck]

Hammers- the other slippery slope. ...

Nooo don't tell me that!

[Clint Bach]

Replacing or adding to your hammers? I know very few people who have several of the same hammer. For me the question is head style... Rip hammer or claw hammer... Magnetic nail holder for starting nails one handed. Wood, Fiberglas, tubular steel, or thin solid steel, waffle face... I personally like estwing 20 oz smooth face rip hammers for my general purpose beating on things and driving nails. They do have a noticeable ringing some don't like. This is not my only hammer.

C

[Tom M King]

I swing an Estwing. One of each, and multiples of some (for multiple people working), depending on what we are doing. My most used hammer is a 16oz. straight claw. I don't do much nail pulling with a hammer, so have no use for a curved claw. The straight claw can catch an embedded, or not, nailhead, and is useful for many things, as well as having better balance behind the head.

This 16 oz. comes with a bell face, and beveled edges. I think it's good for driving nails all the way home, and maybe not damaging the surface. I don't need that, but the beveled edges don't allow me to get into a tight corner like I would like, so like almost everything else I own, it was customized- by regrinding the face to a much flatter bell, with no tapered edges. This hammer gets used probably 95 percent of the hammer time. It can do any job, but there are some more specific ones for specific jobs, if that job is longer than a few nails, that would be better.

[lowell holmes]

I have 8oz, 12oz, 16oz, and IIRC, a 20 oz. hammer. FWIW, they are mostly wooden handle Bluegrass hammers.
I also have a Bluegrass spoke shave.