Mike, here are a few thoughts:
As several have said, a digital read out (DRO) makes it easier to reset the thicknesser to the same setting. I use a Wixey DRO $70 on my Minimax combo J/P/Saw/Shaper. I don't get perfect repeatable results yet, I think because one of the brackets flexes a little, so I need to fabricate a new bracket out of some stiffer steel and see if that helps.
Re planing long boards: I tend to loose yield due to warping/cupping if I try to surface a really long board. I'm with Jim and others in that I prefer to cut my boards to ~ project size before surfacing them. That way any warp/cup is localized and I don't have to remove as much material to get a stable rectangle. If you start with very straight flat stock this isn't as important.
It is also difficult for me to manage pushing a 10' long 6/4 or 8/4 piece of white oak over the jointer,... The flip side to this - each project piece I make is cut a little long and trimmed to final dimension at the end, so there is possibly more wastage with this 'project sized pieces' approach, assuming you are starting with relatively flat stock.
Minimax (SCM) sells a spiral head called the Xylent. I suspect this is a special order item, I special ordered my entire machine and it took 3 months to build in Italy and ship. There are also third party spiral heads, but that adds to the cost since you would be wasting the Tersa head. I do get some minor scalloping from the Tersa blades but some 80 grit sandpaper on a Rotex makes them disappear pretty quickly. Also, the process of changing Tersa blades is amazingly fast and simple. I can swap out the 3 blades on my Tersa head in under 5 minutes, all perfectly aligned.