Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 20

Thread: Flooring to protect existing pine floor

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Westborough, MA
    Posts
    43

    Flooring to protect existing pine floor

    My workshop is located in an approximately 200 sq. ft. bedroom that I appropriated from a vacant mother-in-law apartment in our home. It has wide pine flooring that acquired some character during the years it was occupied. I assumed a little more character wouldn't hurt, but after dropping a few tools I've come to the realization that I'm going to ruin the floor for future use as living space if I don't lay something down to protect it.

    My requirements for the covering material are that 1) it lay perfectly flat and stay in place without being nailed to the floor underneath. (double-sided carpet tape would be ok, if necessary); 2) it be reasonably easy to sweep; 3) it be reasonably inexpensive; 4) it be reasonably easy to lay; 5) in the future I may buy a band saw and put it on wheels so I can keep it in the corner and roll it out as needed -- so being able to roll heavy equipment is a consideration. However, this is primarily a hand-tools-only (aka neanderthal) shop. 6) It should be pretty firm. My workbench will sit on it. I don't care about depressions in the covering but I don't want it to cause the bench to bounce or absorb much energy when I'm pounding on something. I'm not going to leave an open space for the bench -- the bench has to sit on it.

    I've browsed some of the threads on flooring and have gleaned a few ideas. However, most of these threads are about concrete floors so I thought a new thread would be ok. Here are the current candidates:


    • T&G plywood or OSB
    • Horse stall mats (I have a local Tractor Supply). I'm not a big fan of this idea due to the weight
    • Utility mats sold by Tractor supply that appear to be a smaller horse stall mat (1/2" instead of 3/4")
    • Tight-Lock tiles from rubberflooringinc. These look to cost $500 or so for this job and are thus at the high end of the price range. Looks like most people use these for home gyms. These would be easy to lay and I could easily take them with me when we eventually move.
    • What else can you think of?


    I kind of like the idea of mats but I wonder if they would be impractical in some way or would wear out.

    Your thoughts? Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    Anti-fatigue mats from U-Line
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Highland MI
    Posts
    4,511
    Blog Entries
    11
    Any floating laminate flooring. I have inexpensive Pergo in my shop, it sweeps easily and is not slippery. $2.30-$2.80/sf at the BORG.
    Last edited by Ole Anderson; 04-12-2018 at 6:00 PM.
    NOW you tell me...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,758
    You might get by with linoleum, just taped down at the edges.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    15,595
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Ole Anderson View Post
    Any floating laminate flooring. I have inexpensive Pergo in my shop, it sweeps easily and is not slippery. $2.30-$2.80/sf at the BORG.
    I recommend laminate flooring as well.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    Laminate is a good idea...the snap-together type that doesn't need glue. It floats on top of a very thin piece of foam padding and should be innocuous to the existing floor below it.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    Cheap laminate flooring with the thin, cheap vapor barrier pad underneath.. Get the cheap stuff at Blue or Orange BORG, clearance rack at Lumber Liquidators, Ollie's, or whatever. Just make sure it's all the same pattern or you risk the locks not locking together...

    Then if you want - lay down the rubber anti-fatigue mats wherever you need to.....

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Westborough, MA
    Posts
    43
    Thanks for the ideas. This weekend I'll head to the BORG and look at laminate and lino.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    Check out Lumber Liquidators, too, if there's one in your area.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Highland MI
    Posts
    4,511
    Blog Entries
    11
    And laminate will allow tools on wheels to move around unlike a soft floor using mats.
    NOW you tell me...

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    549
    I used the snap together laminate type with cork surface for a utility closet and is surprisingly durable and easy on the old knees. Didn't need much so not too spendy but IIRC it was more than the simulated wood laminate.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    549
    Forgot to mention it is a smooth surface so sweeps easily.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    8,973
    When we are working inside a finished house, often a museum house, after thoroughly cleaning the floor, we roll out brown builders paper, tape the overlaps with cheap masking tape, and put down hardboard (Masonite) with butt jointed edges (no fasteners). It lays down flat on its own. When we leave, sometimes after being set up there for two years, it's easy to take up. The paper is just rolled up, and tossed. We've never damaged a floor like this, and that's with a full complement of full sized tools on it.

    If we are doing plastering, plastic goes down on top of the brown paper:
    Last edited by Tom M King; 04-15-2018 at 7:23 PM.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,889
    Costco is often cheaper on the laminate floor then the borgs. But they will not have the trim and edgings.
    Bill D. For one room check habitat.
    Bil lD

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Westborough, MA
    Posts
    43
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    When we are working inside a finished house, often a museum house, after thoroughly cleaning the floor, we roll out brown builders paper, tape the overlaps with cheap masking tape, and put down hardboard (Masonite) with butt jointed edges (no fasteners). It lays down flat on its own. When we leave, sometimes after being set up there for two years, it's easy to take up. The paper is just rolled up, and tossed. We've never damaged a floor like this, and that's with a full complement of full sized tools on it.
    Interesting idea. What thickness of masonite do you use?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •