New to woodworking, looking at a table saw, 10" craftsman 113. 298240

[Dave Brunner]

I am decent w/ metal but I've never been good w/ wood. I am going to try to teach myself to at least build a square box made of wood and maybe progress to better things. I've built less than precise things (Benches, etc) but that's it. I feel i've not been able to do it before because I had the wrong tools (Jigsaw, circular saw, etc). and nothing very precise. I am looking at this on craigslist and it also has a sturdy base for $75. Researching a bit people say it's decent but others had mentioned that if it has some plastic type of T fastener that I should run, i'm assuming because they are not available anymore. I asked if the table was flat (he said it was) and if the fence was ok (he said it was) but in reality I don't know an "ok" fence would look like anyway. Is there anything i should look for or any reason I should run from this?

Model: craftsman 113. 298240
10" blade
Comes w/ a base
Has a table extension

His ad:

Contractors 10 inch table saw with table extensions. Mounted on a steel stand with wheels. Power strip added. This construction grade tool with larger table surface is big enough to easily 4x8 sheets of plywood. Cut material all day long with this puppy without strain. Transportation of his large tool will take two men.

[cody michael]

I used something similar for awhile. It is definitely not a great saw but anything decent is probably around $300 even used. I would say it would be hard to lose money on that saw, if you buy it, use it and out grow it you should be able to sell for same money.

A good fence is a couple hundred dollars and would be silly in my opinion.

[Dave Brunner]

Can you explain to me what a good fence provides that this one doesn't? Is it just lack of adjustability/play? Or is it stability?

Dave

[BOB OLINGER]

Hi Dave,

First, welcome to woodworking. This is a great site to get all kinds of advice, opinion, etc. Concerning your question, get ready for a lot of comments/opinion.
Second, my thoughts - $75 is a great price, but you're likely getting what you're paying for. If to be used in general construction where precise work is not needed, probably OK. If you're looking for a contactors saw for woodworking, not construction work, I'd recommend looking for a good used Delta (or comparable brand like Grizley), likely can be bought off Craigslist for $250 or so +/-. I had one prior to my SawStop and was a very good choice at the time. The table on this one looks a little rusted - maybe just the picture angle.

[Dave Brunner]

I can remove any rust if it affects functionality. I am not looking for contractor quality I just want to improve my skills and cut a straight line in a piece of plywood . I am very good w/ my hands, can fix anything and can work w/ any material other than wood. I've just not had a reason to. I can make something out of 2x4s but I want to learn better skills and techniques. I now have the garage size that allows me to have all of my car and metal tools along w/ woodworking tools so I am going to start acquiring things to teach myself these skills. This will merely be hobby and perhaps later I can build things for my garage like cabinets, etc. I did build my garage bench, I've built soffits in a kitchen I remodeled, I can cut trim and i've even built a 4x8 box for a trailer but It was not up to my quality standards in the least. I am going to try to change that and perhaps find a hobby that I can enjoy at the same time. There are so many little things you guys who have done this for years just pick up and keep with you. I know being a car guy I have tons of little tricks which to me are common sense but when a friend comes over and I try to help him do his brakes for example you soon realize these are really acquired skills and techniques, not common sense.

Dave

[Grant Aldridge]

Great price for the saw provided it runs. A $200 fence upgrade would make it MUCH more enjoyable and precise. Here's mine with a Delta T2 fence

[Marshall Harrison]

To answer your question about the fence:

In a nutshell, the fence needs to lock down parallel to the blade (which should be parallel to the miter slots). And once locked down it should not move or drift. If those two things are not right then you can't make clean cuts and and it will probably cause some kickback problems.

Some of the old Craftsman don't have standard miter slots though I don't know about that particular model.

[Jim Andrew]

I bought an old Cman table saw over 40 years ago, and luckily the previous owner had installed a Delta Jetlock fence on it. I used that old saw till the motor would hardly start, and planned to replace the motor and fence until I priced them, and wound up buying a Unisaw with a Biesemeyer fence.

[Lee Schierer]

I have a 113.298720 model Craftsman saw, which is very similar to the one you are looking at. Mine is 1-1/2 Hp. The saw in your photos does not have the OEM fence, which is a good thing. Your saw has an after market fence. With a little care and time spent doing a good alignment you can get many years of accurate cutting that saw. You can get a manual here.

It is a 1 Hp saw, but it will cross cut 1" thick stock with a good full kerf blade. You might want a thin kerf ripping blade for rip cuts. The miter slot appears to be the 3/4" x 3/8" deep style that fits most available accessories. The small yellow button you see on the start/stop switch can be removed if you don't want anyone else to start the saw. Don't lose it as they can be difficult to find.

Since you are new to table saws, be sure to read the manual for safety precautions and use feather boards and push sticks when making cuts. I don't see a guard in the photos so you may want to purchase and after market one.

[Dave Brunner]

THanks, I have no idea what 90% of what you said means lol. What should I look for when I go to look at it tomorrow? I don't know what crosscutting is unless that means across the grain? I guess that is harder to do? Yes I am that clueless when it comes to wood. At least I do know what the grain is . I could also fabricate a reed switch or rfid that will only operate when my phone is near by I can make a 30 year old saw operate w/ RFID or geofencing lol. Heck i could even tie an arduino or pi to it to remotely allow operation. But I couldn't tell you the first thing about the best way to operate it.

Dave

[Rick Potter]

Hate to disagree with Lee, but that looks like a factory fence to me. The angle iron has been stretched to go across the table extensions, though.

I don't know if that saw has a motor at the rear, with a belt, but that is the type you want.

Basics to check: Check the blade arbor bearings by wiggling the blade side to side to see if there is any play. Spin the blade, to see if it runs true. Run the blade up and down, and angle it with the other wheel. Many are rusted, and the controls don't work. Turn it on and see how much vibration it has. If it vibrates it might be a belt with a 'set'...no biggie, but if you hear funny noises, look elsewhere.

I do not see a miter gage. That is the thingie that runs in the slots on the table. It should have one. Ask if he has any accessories that go with it, blades etc.

Looks like the power strip was there to run routers in the wings of the saw.

The pics look like the saw was used hard, but if it runs smoothly it is worth looking at. Heck, you will pay that much for a good blade.

Hope this helps.

[Marshall Harrison]

THanks, I have no idea what 90% of what you said means lol. What should I look for when I go to look at it tomorrow? I don't know what crosscutting is unless that means across the grain? I guess that is harder to do? Yes I am that clueless when it comes to wood. At least I do know what the grain is . I could also fabricate a reed switch or rfid that will only operate when my phone is near by I can make a 30 year old saw operate w/ RFID or geofencing lol. Heck i could even tie an arduino or pi to it to remotely allow operation. But I couldn't tell you the first thing about the best way to operate it.

Dave

I understood all of that. You have made me wonder if I can use Stringify and setup a skill for my Echo to automate parts of my shop. 30 years of programming doesn't die easy.

[Mike Null]

I've been doing woodworking/dyi stuff for nearly 60 years. I used to have a Craftsman TS. I did a few things which made it a pretty good saw. New blade--I bought a Forrest WW2 and that was like adding a supercharger. I added machined pulleys--smoother running and I added a flexible link belt. I also added blade stabilizers. My blade was in alignment with the slots so I got a clean cut, so good that the WW2 blade made them look like they had been planed.

As others have said, the fence is the weak point but you can align it as needed and it's not a terrible thing. If there is no miter gauge you can get a replacement or any of several upgrades without much effort.

I've had several table saws in my life but everything I wanted to do could have been done on the Craftsman.

[Lee Schierer]

Hate to disagree with Lee, but that looks like a factory fence to me. The angle iron has been stretched to go across the table extensions, though.

Upon closer examination, Rick is probably right, that could be the OEM fence with added rails. The OEM fences had a distinct tendency to not always lock parallel to the miter slot and blade, which is why I upgraded mine to a Beismeyer fence.

[Cary Falk]

The saw itself should do everything you need. That fence would drive me crazy and a better fence would make a it a great saw.