Kreg Jig ?

[Mike Burke]

I am thinking about getting a Kreg Jig. Probably using it on face frames and other areas...in place of my biscuit jointer...in some applications looks like it might be easier and quicker.

Any suggestion on which kit would be a good one to start with ?
I just have a hobby shop..not production or heavy work.

Thanks for any suggestions....or maybe there is another pocket hole jig that is better than the Kreg

Suggestions ?

[lowell holmes]

I've used both pocket screws and biscuit joinery successfully. I plugged the holes of the pocket screw, putting them on the back side of the frame. I consider the joint to be stronger
but I still prefer biscuits.

[Ben Rivel]

K5 was the only one I considered for my hobby shop. I went with the K5 Master System with a couple other accessories. Very nice setup. Check out eBay for bundles as I found those deals to be the best around.

[Ken Kortge]

You can certainly do most of what you'll want with the jig alone - the R3, but I agree with Ben's recommendation of the K5, though I bought the K4 Master System well before the K5 was available. I think the K5 is certainly a step up from the K4 in that it provides a stable place to set panels (with the K4 you'll have to do your best to hold it level or create your own 3/4" high resting pads. I also like that the K5 clamps from the front - the K4 clamps from the back, which is a pain with larger panels.

Do you need a K5 Master System - instead of just the K5 base? It depends on whether or not you think you'll want/need to make pocket holes off of the jig. I've seen videos done by VERY experienced people who had to go back and add pocket holes after partial assembly of the cabinet, which would be tough without the Portable Base and a clamp. Then again, you can always buy just the K5 base now, and then buy the Portable Base and a Kreg 3" Clamp later - they are sold separately.

By the way, I don't really understand why the "Stop Collar Setting Block" that is sold with the K5 is needed. I'd think you could just set the collar by laying a U.S. Nickel on the base - as a lot of users are doing. Maybe there is something there I don't understand.

[Cary Falk]

I have the K3 because I got it off CL but I used the older version of the R3 for years and it has been fine

[glenn bradley]

If you are doing your kitchen, the R3 will be fine. If you are doing a neighborhood full of kitchens I would spend more. I started with the mini and used nothing else for years . . . I also don't do kitchen and bath work and just needed something for every now and then. I also have the micro-jig and base which is nice for thinner material. Somehow I ended up with a 'drill guide block' that also shares the micro-jig's base.

I had a K3 system but, sold it as the space required to use it versus my volume of use didn't make sense. I could clamp the loose jig on and have a hole before I got the K3 out of the case. Again, I am not doing face frames and you are. If I were doing them I would want something more substantial and repeatable than a loose jig.

[Matt Day]

I have the K3 master kit. It’s not my go to joinery method but I’m glad to have it because sometimes it’s the only way to go. Just used on some built ins shelves i added face frames to so I could add doors.

[Lee Schierer]

I have the original metal K-1 jig and it has worked well for many years. A few years ago I added Kreg R-2 Rocket to give me a bit more versatility on wood thickness. I have gone through thousands of screws over the years with very few issues. I also found I could make my own plugs from dowels and a flush cut saw. Making my own dowels or buying ones of the same wood as the frame helps to hide the plugs.

[Marshall Harrison]

From watching his videos I am sold on Marc Sommerfeld's pocket whole jig -


https://sommerfeldtools.com/professi...ocket-hole-jig

I don't have one but when I'm ready this will be the one I intend to purchase.

[Von Bickley]

I have the K-4 system. If I was buying one to-day, it would be the K-5.

[Bruce Wrenn]

From watching his videos I am sold on Marc Sommerfeld's pocket whole jig -


https://sommerfeldtools.com/professi...ocket-hole-jig

I don't have one but when I'm ready this will be the one I intend to purchase.

Marc Summerfeld is Craig Summerfeld's brother if memory serves me correct. The name Kreg came from Craig Summerfeld's name. To get started, I recommend the R-3 and a set (two) of the auto clamps. For extra bits, buy the single hole from big box stores. Comes with jig, bit, stop collar,and Allen wrench.

[Marshall Harrison]

Marc Summerfeld is Craig Summerfeld's brother if memory serves me correct. The name Kreg came from Craig Summerfeld's name. To get started, I recommend the R-3 and a set (two) of the auto clamps. For extra bits, buy the single hole from big box stores. Comes with jig, bit, stop collar,and Allen wrench.

Thanks Bruce, I didn't know that.

[Dan Rude]

When buying the Clamps, get the longer one 6-8". You will use it more than you think. Dan

[Ole Anderson]

I have the K4 system, great improvement over my first Kreg jig. I like the vac attachment set up to turn on when my drill starts. Yes I use a corded drill, I like the extra bit speed with the jig. Having the old jig gives me two stepped drill bits, I have one set up for 3/4" material, the other for 1-1/2" material.

[Mark W Pugh]

K4 Master system. I also just bought their plug making jig, now the plugs will match the wood.

Oh, and somewhere on the web, there is a chart that shows what size of screw to use for same and different size pieces. I don't know if the chart included with the system covers joining 2 different size pieces of wood.

I guess this is the chart.

http://api.ning.com/files/kkaG0viVHk...ewSettings.pdf