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Thread: Who uses/likes the Grr-Ripper?

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    North Prairie, WI
    Posts
    222
    I bought one about a year ago and wished I had gotten it much earlier. They have become my go-to push block.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Western Nebraska
    Posts
    4,680
    I'll offer the lone dissenting opinion, nothing against Grr-rippers though.

    There are always piles of scraps and cutoffs around, I just make a pushblock to fit whatever I'm cutting. Takes a min on the bandsaw and it's free. For ripping small pieces on a traditional type saw, I like a longer "kidney" shaped block that allows my hand to be quite a bit above and behind the blade, and touches the stock in at least two places, 10" or so apart. Keeps the cutoff in control that way. Usually run the blade up into the pushblock so it's always covered when ripping small stuff. Wow, it's hard to describe that, I'll post a pic if anyone is curious.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    859
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Rozmiarek View Post
    I'll offer the lone dissenting opinion, nothing against Grr-rippers though.

    There are always piles of scraps and cutoffs around, I just make a pushblock to fit whatever I'm cutting. Takes a min on the bandsaw and it's free. For ripping small pieces on a traditional type saw, I like a longer "kidney" shaped block that allows my hand to be quite a bit above and behind the blade, and touches the stock in at least two places, 10" or so apart. Keeps the cutoff in control that way. Usually run the blade up into the pushblock so it's always covered when ripping small stuff. Wow, it's hard to describe that, I'll post a pic if anyone is curious.
    I'm curious. Show us the pic.
    Marshall
    ---------------------------
    A Stickley fan boy.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,758
    Push sticks and typical push blocks scare me now that I have much better.

    I use a push block and sometimes a push stick from the side to keep the workpiece tight to the table and the fence. I used-to use a hardwood push block but it kept getting thrown back at me. This was because it was sometimes longer than the piece and it got sucked down into the blade before the piece even got to the blade. I learned.

    Now my push block is a big hunk of Balsa, though styrofoam works fine also. It is 4" wide x 6" high x 24" long with a hardwood top and back. There is an adjustable tab on the back. The tab and block get chewed a little so there is some repair occasionally. If it does get sucked down, it just doesn't matter. I can safely and confidently rip 1/2" square x 3" long pieces. There have been no incidents.

    Please try this approach and post your results.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Western Nebraska
    Posts
    4,680
    Quote Originally Posted by Marshall Harrison View Post
    I'm curious. Show us the pic.
    Here you go Marshall. This one is ready for retirement, and is unnecessary on the slider it's sitting on. Was using this one for 12" x 1/4" strips if I remember correctly.

    20180411_075846.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    2,005
    Quote Originally Posted by Marshall Harrison View Post
    Is the "all black" version something that SawStop commissioned just for SS owners?

    I hesitated to ask about Grr-Rippers as I thought they might be as hot a topic as SawStops can be.
    No back when MicroJig was still making black parts for the Grr-Rippers I called them and had them put together two using all black parts. No idea whey they never sold them like that and instead opted first for the ugly black and yellow mix-n-match version then finally the worse all yellow version, but yea. Im just glad I got in before they stopped making the black components.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  7. #37
    For those who want to buy a commerical version of this type of push shoe: https://www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-1023...ding=UTF8&s=hi

    You can replace the push pin when it is worn out.

    Simon

  8. #38
    Hi Rod,

    "Primarily used as a combination blade guard and push block..." and "On a table saw, it carries both the main stock and the offcut past the blade, reducing the risk of kickback, burning or a wandering cut" are what the Grr-ripper seeks to do.

    I understand the concerns about removing the guard but the Grr ripprer is, in my opinion, why it should be used under such circumstances. If a guard is not removed, other types of aids such as the dual tread push shoe will suffice. I only use the Grr- rpiper when the guard is removed.

    When resawing with the Grr-ripper, these parts of the Grr-ripper reduce the chance of kickback: the center leg and the baseplate (the piece with the hook that bucks against the stock tight to the fence like a featherboard).

    The Jesseem saw guides are great, but they can't handle short and narrow stock as a Gr-ripper does. So, if anyone asks me, the J. saw guides, the dual tread push shoe, the Grr-ripper and magnetic featherboards plus a SawStop would present the best cabinet saw safety protection possible today when using the cabinet saw with the guard removed.

    Simon

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,492
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Marshall Harrison View Post
    To be clear on tis; the 1/8" leg is not an accessory. It comes as part of the Grr-Ripper.
    Do you have a ink to the unit you are looking at? Both of mine (bought at different times) came with the 1/4" and 1/2" fixed legs with a 1" movable. I had to buy the 1/8" legs.

    As you can see, folks run hot and cold on these. The advantage to that is that those who don't care for them often sell them.

    They have become part of the way I think about an operation. I'm no Jim Toplin but, I use my tablesaw for all sorts of wizardry. The Grr-Rippers factor in to all sorts of operations at the tablesaw and the router table for me. I made my own tail stops for them but, find the friction pads to work so well I have hardly used them.

    The multiple t-solts and attachment points lend themselves to all sorts of ideas in the shop. There are accessories that you can buy but, many of these can be made ad-hoc out of scrap. 1/8" tempered hardboard for guards or bridging connectors for example.

    Grr-Ripper-Catch-1.jpg . MJ Splitter and Grr-Ripper 002.jpg

    Grr-Ripper (2).jpg . Grr-Ripper (4).jpg

    I don't see them so much any more but, back when they first came out, all sorts of packages were offered as sales leaders. Between these and the Woodworking Shows specials I have quite an array of extra legs and attachments. They live in a drawer by the tablesaw which gives me a sort of Swiss Army Knife choice of things for holding and processing material.
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 04-11-2018 at 11:10 AM.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Prairie Village, KS
    Posts
    397
    I have two and love them. Use them when I have to rip smaller than about 2 inches.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,248
    Quote Originally Posted by Marshall Harrison View Post
    Yeah, I thought of that Rod. But when cutting small pieces the blade guard will most likely be off anyway. But I always intend to keep the riving knife on the saw so that will help some.

    My intentions are to always cut with the blade guard on the saw for those types of cut where it can be used.
    Why would the blade guard be off?

    I never remove the guard from my saw, whether sawing very small pieces or thin strips.............Rod.

  12. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    Why would the blade guard be off?
    Because it makes you less safe to deal with it instead of removing it.

    I have a Gripper and love it. Don't use it a LOT, but when I do need it, nothing else will do the job as well or as safely.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    859
    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    Do you have a ink to the unit you are looking at? Both of mine (bought at different times) came with the 1/4" and 1/2" fixed legs with a 1" movable. I had to buy the 1/8" legs.

    As you can see, folks run hot and cold on these. The advantage to that is that those who don't care for them often sell them.

    They have become part of the way I think about an operation. I'm no Jim Toplin but, I use my tablesaw for all sorts of wizardry. The Grr-Rippers factor in to all sorts of operations at the tablesaw and the router table for me. I made my own tail stops for them but, find the friction pads to work so well I have hardly used them.

    The multiple t-solts and attachment points lend themselves to all sorts of ideas in the shop. There are accessories that you can buy but, many of these can be made ad-hoc out of scrap. 1/8" tempered hardboard for guards or bridging connectors for example.

    Grr-Ripper-Catch-1.jpg . MJ Splitter and Grr-Ripper 002.jpg

    Grr-Ripper (2).jpg . Grr-Ripper (4).jpg

    I don't see them so much any more but, back when they first came out, all sorts of packages were offered as sales leaders. Between these and the Woodworking Shows specials I have quite an array of extra legs and attachments. They live in a drawer by the tablesaw which gives me a sort of Swiss Army Knife choice of things for holding and processing material.
    My apologies. It looks like I misspoke. I was confusing the 1/4" leg that is shown in all of the videos with the 1/8" leg.
    Marshall
    ---------------------------
    A Stickley fan boy.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,248
    Quote Originally Posted by Carlos Alvarez View Post
    Because it makes you less safe to deal with it instead of removing it.

    I have a Gripper and love it. Don't use it a LOT, but when I do need it, nothing else will do the job as well or as safely.
    Carlos, removing the guard never makes you more safe.

    If it did, you would be allowed to remove guards at work.

    That kind of thinking is what leads to accidents...............Regards, Rod.

  15. #45
    I picked up 2 of them to leap frog longer stock with. They do work well. My biggest gripe is constantly having to reconfigure them. It's easy to lose those little black o rings and washers, so take care when dissembling them.

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