I bought one about a year ago and wished I had gotten it much earlier. They have become my go-to push block.
I bought one about a year ago and wished I had gotten it much earlier. They have become my go-to push block.
I'll offer the lone dissenting opinion, nothing against Grr-rippers though.
There are always piles of scraps and cutoffs around, I just make a pushblock to fit whatever I'm cutting. Takes a min on the bandsaw and it's free. For ripping small pieces on a traditional type saw, I like a longer "kidney" shaped block that allows my hand to be quite a bit above and behind the blade, and touches the stock in at least two places, 10" or so apart. Keeps the cutoff in control that way. Usually run the blade up into the pushblock so it's always covered when ripping small stuff. Wow, it's hard to describe that, I'll post a pic if anyone is curious.
Push sticks and typical push blocks scare me now that I have much better.
I use a push block and sometimes a push stick from the side to keep the workpiece tight to the table and the fence. I used-to use a hardwood push block but it kept getting thrown back at me. This was because it was sometimes longer than the piece and it got sucked down into the blade before the piece even got to the blade. I learned.
Now my push block is a big hunk of Balsa, though styrofoam works fine also. It is 4" wide x 6" high x 24" long with a hardwood top and back. There is an adjustable tab on the back. The tab and block get chewed a little so there is some repair occasionally. If it does get sucked down, it just doesn't matter. I can safely and confidently rip 1/2" square x 3" long pieces. There have been no incidents.
Please try this approach and post your results.
Here you go Marshall. This one is ready for retirement, and is unnecessary on the slider it's sitting on. Was using this one for 12" x 1/4" strips if I remember correctly.
20180411_075846.jpg
No back when MicroJig was still making black parts for the Grr-Rippers I called them and had them put together two using all black parts. No idea whey they never sold them like that and instead opted first for the ugly black and yellow mix-n-match version then finally the worse all yellow version, but yea. Im just glad I got in before they stopped making the black components.
If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!
For those who want to buy a commerical version of this type of push shoe: https://www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-1023...ding=UTF8&s=hi
You can replace the push pin when it is worn out.
Simon
Hi Rod,
"Primarily used as a combination blade guard and push block..." and "On a table saw, it carries both the main stock and the offcut past the blade, reducing the risk of kickback, burning or a wandering cut" are what the Grr-ripper seeks to do.
I understand the concerns about removing the guard but the Grr ripprer is, in my opinion, why it should be used under such circumstances. If a guard is not removed, other types of aids such as the dual tread push shoe will suffice. I only use the Grr- rpiper when the guard is removed.
When resawing with the Grr-ripper, these parts of the Grr-ripper reduce the chance of kickback: the center leg and the baseplate (the piece with the hook that bucks against the stock tight to the fence like a featherboard).
The Jesseem saw guides are great, but they can't handle short and narrow stock as a Gr-ripper does. So, if anyone asks me, the J. saw guides, the dual tread push shoe, the Grr-ripper and magnetic featherboards plus a SawStop would present the best cabinet saw safety protection possible today when using the cabinet saw with the guard removed.
Simon
Do you have a ink to the unit you are looking at? Both of mine (bought at different times) came with the 1/4" and 1/2" fixed legs with a 1" movable. I had to buy the 1/8" legs.
As you can see, folks run hot and cold on these. The advantage to that is that those who don't care for them often sell them.
They have become part of the way I think about an operation. I'm no Jim Toplin but, I use my tablesaw for all sorts of wizardry. The Grr-Rippers factor in to all sorts of operations at the tablesaw and the router table for me. I made my own tail stops for them but, find the friction pads to work so well I have hardly used them.
The multiple t-solts and attachment points lend themselves to all sorts of ideas in the shop. There are accessories that you can buy but, many of these can be made ad-hoc out of scrap. 1/8" tempered hardboard for guards or bridging connectors for example.
Grr-Ripper-Catch-1.jpg . MJ Splitter and Grr-Ripper 002.jpg
Grr-Ripper (2).jpg . Grr-Ripper (4).jpg
I don't see them so much any more but, back when they first came out, all sorts of packages were offered as sales leaders. Between these and the Woodworking Shows specials I have quite an array of extra legs and attachments. They live in a drawer by the tablesaw which gives me a sort of Swiss Army Knife choice of things for holding and processing material.
Last edited by glenn bradley; 04-11-2018 at 11:10 AM.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
I have two and love them. Use them when I have to rip smaller than about 2 inches.
I picked up 2 of them to leap frog longer stock with. They do work well. My biggest gripe is constantly having to reconfigure them. It's easy to lose those little black o rings and washers, so take care when dissembling them.