Who uses/likes the Grr-Ripper?

[David Kumm]

I don't feel very secure relying on the cheap crap plastic guards on most saws either. Trying to run a thin strip through and under a guard with a thin push stick doesn't necessarily reduce the chance of kickback vs the grripper. True there is plastic between your hand and the blade but it is more sturdy and stable than a guard attached to a riving knife that can shift into the teeth with surprisingly little effort. I've shattered a guard and although my hand was not close to the blade, shards of plastic ended up in my cheek. Not advocating taking off guards but most are designed pretty minimally. Dave

[Rod Sheridan]

Right, that's why for some processes at work you are trained to remove the guards, since fighting them is less safe. Single-paradigm thinking leads to accidents.

I've never seen any industrial workplace where people are trained to remove the guards. I would like to see supporting documentation on that please.

If the guard makes a job unsafe, you have 2 options

1) use a different design of guard

2) use a different machine that's capable of performing the work with suitable guards in place. An example would be cutting rebates on the shaper as opposed to the table saw.

Most of the issues I've seen with narrow objects on the table saw are solved by keeping the guard and changing to the correct style of fence for the operation.

regards, Rod.

[Mike Holbrook]

I have one of the older model GRR. I was recently making raised pannels using a router table. I bought the newer model GRR advanced 3D with the bottom plate and holding hook (the one on the plate) to use to guide copes and sticks over router blades. The 3D model, IMHO (in my humble opinion) has significant improvements, sort of similar to coping sleds. I also bought a GRR Rip Block, which is great for holding pieces against the table. This combo is more versatile in terms of what it can do, although it may not work for everything.

There is a new attachment for theses tools called a Deflector Connector, which can be used to connect two devices together, leaving a clear view. It can also run against the fence, allowing the user to move the supports to a location outside the blade, for those uncomfortable running their hand over a turning blade. All are available on Amazon.

[Edwin Santos]

I have one of the older model GRR. I was recently making raised pannels using a router table. I bought the newer model GRR advanced 3D with the bottom plate and holding hook (the one on the plate) to use to guide copes and sticks over router blades. The 3D model, IMHO (in my humble opinion) has significant improvements, sort of similar to coping sleds.

Mike,
How exactly do you use a GRR in place of a coping sled to do cope cuts on the ends of rails? I just looked through their website and cannot see that operation illustrated. I'm thinking you might be using the large stabilizing plate in some way. Thanks
Edwin

[Mike Holbrook]

Hi Edwin,

There is a YouTube video showing how to make a jig with a GRR 3D as a coping sled that has a method for doing that. I did not go to that trouble. I just used a scrap, same thickness, to rest the rail/cope on. I used my GRR 3D to hold the rail/cope against the, sacrficial piece of wood, while it held the scrap against the fence. The bottom plate on the GRR 3D has a hook that in conjunction with the bottom plate held the sacrificail piece firmly in place. My hands were further away from the moving blade and both the cope and sacrificial piece were held much more securely against the fence than with the tradional method of hand holding the cope against a scrap.

[Edwin Santos]

Hi Edwin,

There is a YouTube video showing how to make a jig with a GRR 3D as a coping sled that has a method for doing that. I did not go to that trouble. I just used a scrap, same thickness, to rest the rail/cope on. I used my GRR 3D to hold the rail/cope against the, sacrficial piece of wood, while it held the scrap against the fence. The bottom plate on the GRR 3D has a hook that in conjunction with the bottom plate held the sacrificail piece firmly in place. My hands were further away from the moving blade and both the cope and sacrificial piece were held much more securely against the fence than with the tradional method of hand holding the cope against a scrap.

Mike,
I found the YouTube video you mentioned, and now your description makes perfect sense. I have the original GRR, not the 3D and I use it a lot, but not nearly to its potential. Many thanks,
Edwin

[Mike Holbrook]

Edwin,

Glad to be of service. The Deflector Coonector was the only piece I bought to supplement my original GRR that I may wind up not finding useful. I may make a wider clear piece that will fit in the same screw holes as the Deflecor Connector. Such a clear piece would serve a similar purpose as the clear guard on a Woodpecker coping Sled.

I like having two GRR’s. The older model works great as a second feeder for longer work. I did discover that a Feather board or two, on either side of the hole in the fence for the router bit, may be handy for long pieces that nay flex up above the router bit without something to hlod them down on the table. I was using a plastic/wood that flexed up a great deal in the center of the table. One feathrboard on the far side of the bit will work well if one is using a GRR to hold near side of wood against the fence and table.

[George Bokros]

Ah, I'm going to look at how it or the block can work though, since the pads sometimes slip on some wood, and I'd love something with a hook or ledge.

You need to periodically clean the Grr-Ripper and the GrrrRipper pad with denatured alcohol.

[Julie Moriarty]

I bought the pair combo and love them. Today I ripped some pretty thin sitka spruce and was really glad I had them. To me they are invaluable.

[Marshall Harrison]

Well, I guess I'll be ordering at least one Grr-Ripper after all of the positive responses.

Thanks everyone.

[Nick Decker]

You need to periodically clean the Grr-Ripper and the GrrrRipper pad with denatured alcohol.

Or a quick wipe on your jeans, anything to get the sawdust off does wonders.

[Simon MacGowen]

Or a quick wipe on your jeans, anything to get the sawdust off does wonders.

You and George are proof that most people don't read user's manuals but do pay good attention to (well-produced) instructional DVDs!

Simon

[Charlie Hinton]

I have two of them and I use them all the time on the tablesaw and the jointer.
Only regret is not getting them sooner.

[glenn bradley]

The extra money for the 200 is more economical than adding those additional accessories later.

[Marshall Harrison]

The extra money for the 200 is more economical than adding those additional accessories later.

Thanks Glenn. I was thinking about getting one 100 and one 200. I don't see much need for getting multiple 200s.