High end table saw blade - which one to buy?

[Nick Mazzino]

Hi all,

I have a 2003 Unisaw I just recently bought and am finalizing setting up my first wood shop.
And a porter cable 10" non-sliding miter saw. I would like to upgrade the miter saw in the future.

I have been going back and forth on which blade to buy for my Unisaw. I originally was going to get a rip and a cross cut blade. But, talking to someone that has been doing woodworking for some time recommended just getting the Forrest Woodworker II 40T all purpose blade. I would really like to have an all purpose blade instead of 2 blades.

I was thinking of getting a top of the line all purpose for my table saw and then a fairly good crosscut blade for my miter saw (around 50-70$).

Anyone have any inputs on the Woodworker II or miter saw cross cut recommendations?

Thanks all!

[Scott Bernstein]

I've got a SawStop PCS with 120V 1-3/4 hp motor. I have used Freud, Forrest WoodWorker II and Ridge Carbide (in New Jersey) blades. I think people rave about the Forrest blades, and my WWII combination blade is indeed excellent. However the Ridge carbide is one step above that. I've got their TS2000 Ultra Blade and the 24-tooth Rip Blade - both full kerf. They are both truly excellent blades - nice, thick steel plate and really big carbide teeth so they can be sharpened many times. When I purchased them I thought they were expensive - now I think the price is pretty fair. Totally worth it.

[Carlos Alvarez]

I have a Freud miter saw blade in my 12" SCMS, but I can't remember which specific model. I *think* it's the 96 tooth. I mostly keep a high-end multi-purpose blade in the Unisaw. I have a few brands of those, and don't have a specific preference. Also some of my blades are now unmarked due to re-sharpening, and I don't know what they actually are.

[Philipp Jaindl]

What Blade you buy depends on what Materials you plan to work with, if its just solid wood its not that much of an issue however when you work Sheetgoods you really want/need a dedicated blade for some of them. Cant commend on the Forrest Blades almost all I've worked with are Leitz which are excellent blades though some of them can get very very expensive.

Personally id recommend getting Dedicated blades for the increase in cut quality and speed but you're going to need 2 Blades anyways unless you have the equipment to sharpen your own blades which most dont.

For Miters and very accurate Crosscuts id go with at least a 90 tooth Blade.

[Charles Coolidge]

I've got a SawStop PCS with 120V 1-3/4 hp motor. I have used Freud, Forrest WoodWorker II and Ridge Carbide (in New Jersey) blades. I think people rave about the Forrest blades, and my WWII combination blade is indeed excellent. However the Ridge carbide is one step above that. I've got their TS2000 Ultra Blade and the 24-tooth Rip Blade - both full kerf. They are both truly excellent blades - nice, thick steel plate and really big carbide teeth so they can be sharpened many times. When I purchased them I thought they were expensive - now I think the price is pretty fair. Totally worth it.

LOL pretty much exactly what Scott said. Forest Woodworker II been there done that, currently using Ridge Carbide blades. The last Forest blade I purchased was so warped I had to return it so I gave ridge Carbide a shot and been using their blades ever since. I also have the TS1000 Ultra standard kerf 12 inch. As for price Forest vs Ridge Carbide the Forest are more expensive.

[Carlos Alvarez]

That Ridge Carbide Ultimate looks SOOO impressive. Hmm. Could it truly be the one blade on my Unisaw forever? Seems like a miracle, and I don't believe in miracles.

[Rod Sheridan]

Nick, an "all purpose" blade is a figment of everyone's imagination. I would love one, however physics still has some sway in the world

A combination blade works OK for material up to approximately 1 inch thick.

If you want good results you're going to need 3 blades, a rip such as a 24 tooth FTG, a 60 or 80 tooth ATB crosscut and a blade for sheet goods ( possibly an 80 tooth TCG).

I would also want a $40 blade for when the kid across the street comes over with his prized piece of plywood he found in a ditch. That would be my "combo" blade, maybe a 40 tooth ATB for non critical stuff.

I normally buy FS Tools blades..............Regards, Rod.

[Ben Rivel]

Forrest Woodworker II and ChopMaster are my two go to blades. LOVE em!

[Simon MacGowen]

FW April 2018 says (tool test about combination blades):

Best overall - WWII, Ridge Carbide TS2000 and Freud P410. The Freud is also rated as the best value ($88).

So, if I had to pick one to try, the Freud would be my choice.

I have been using WWII on SawStop ICS and PCS all these years, mostly on hardwood, sometimes on engineered boards.

Simon

[Mike Cutler]

I have CMT, Freud, and Forrest, blades for my TS. To be brutally honest, I don't see much of a difference. Clean and sharp, they all cut well. Emphasis on clean. You would be surprised at how much pitch buildup effects cut quality.
My 12" Miter saw has a Freud on it right now.
A quality combo blade can cover a lot of different cuts, but you will eventually want dedicated blades.

Oh yeah, I doubt you'll go wrong buying a WWII combo, They're nice blades to have around, not matter what.

[Carlos Alvarez]

Sigh, $20/year contributed to the forum is NOTHING compared to what you make me buy. Ridge Carbide Ultra on order...

[Patrick Irish]

My used 1999 Unisaw came with a combo Everlast blade. I had it sharpened locally and wow does that thing cut and leave a great finish.

Lots of makes of blades that don't advertise to hobbyists; Everlast and Skarpaz are two I know of.

[Jim Becker]

I pretty much only use Forrest blades and have been very satisfied with them. I now buy from Silvers Mill because the pricing is more attractive than buying direct.

[Jason Lester]

The only time the Ridge Carbide blade comes off for me is for dadoes and really heavy ripping.

[Tom Bain]

Lots of solid options and I don’t have anything to add on brands, but I will say that I really prefer a combo blade that has a raker in the tooth configuration. That way you can use it cut flat bottomed groves and don’t get the ridge left by a pure ATB design.