best way to sharpen plane irons?

[Todd Stock]

Good training...long runs and heavy loads suck, but keeping up with the kids that you triple on age makes it worth while.

[steven c newman]

Seems the OP is more interested in HOW to sharpen an edge, than being a "bodybuilder" ......since that is NOT a requirement to be able to do woodworking.

[George Wall]

Warning: the following advice is from a rank beginner.

Sharpening can be a very confusing topic, just because the detailed methods are very much individual preference, often based on experience. The good news is that means that most methods likely "work" if given enough time, practice, etc. But, the key is to pick a method and practice it until you become good. Then tweak it once you have enough confidence that you have a "fall back" method that creates a sharp edge. If you instead start trying a method, and then get frustrated and abandon it for something else, then abandon it again for something else, you'll never get good.

I myself started with waterstones, and followed the methods described in David Charlesworth's video, available for $30 from Lie Nielsen. As he notes, you only need a couple of waterstones and a cheap $9 honing guide, and so the startup cost is still reasonable. Having said that, I don't really like flattening waterstones and dealing with the mess they create, so I've since switched to diamond stones, which are more expensive, but are essentially maintenance free. Or, you could buy a couple of oilstones instead; the same techniques will still work, albeit perhaps at a different speed.

There are plenty of others to follow as well; Richard Maguire, The English Woodworker has an excellent series of videos on sharpening, and he explains a variety of techniques, and the reasons why he's chosen the methods he's chosen (oilstones). Paul Sellers has a couple of videos touting his methods (freehand convex bevel with diamond stones). Again, key point is to find a method and stick with it until you get proficient enough that you feel confident in experimenting. I'll just add that it's best to stay away from buying expensive jigs and hardware when starting out, as they're really not needed for everyday hobbyist sharpening.

As for the plane type: a 5 1/2 plane with a sharp blade will outperform a #4 or #5 with a dull blade in most cases. So, don't stress over it too much. If you like the 5 1/2, just go for it. I like mine. The new plane is nice in that it needs very little fettling to get it going, other than honing the blade. A used #4 or #5 Stanley plane will be cheaper, as there were so many manufactured as they truly were general purpose, especially the #5 (hence it's name the jack plane). However, the problem is that some used planes need a lot of work to get going, and, until you've actually used one for a while, it's hard to even know how to judge a used plane. My first was a real beat up rust bucket #5; it now works nice, but it took a lot of work to get there. In the end, I didn't save that much over the cost of a new WoodRiver 5 plane.

[Todd Stock]

Different thing, Steven...useful strength and stamina, and the ability to do moderately hard physical labor; in other words, conditioning appropriate to the tasks to be performed, versus the mere physical appearance of strength. And judging from the appearance of the average attendee at PATINA and other woodworking-oriented events, swapping a couple pounds of processed beer and Cheetos for some lean muscle would do most of us some good.

This is a sharpening thread, so thanks for the timely reminder.

- Stick with a system - whatever it might be - until it is second nature to run through the steps quickly and without much in the way of conscious mental effort. Don't be that guy that has a $1000 worth of jigs, fixtures, saws, etc., but glues and screws his drawers together because he won't invest the effort to actually learn how to use one of those cool dovetail systems.

- Find someone that can sharpen tools and spend some time with them. Video or passive viewing of a sharpening demo is a poor substitute for competently delivered, 1-on-1 instruction. Chances are that same mentor will be able to help you get your tools set up properly as well.

- Once sharp edges become a routine event for you, avoid the fallacy of believing that the approach that you have mastered is the only approach worth knowing and using. Keep an open mind and don't be afraid to tweak the system to fit your individual needs.

There ya go!

PS - I use a 4-1/2, 5-1/2, and 7...Stanley back in the day and now LN. Because I can. Def not the tools for hobbits or my 5' 4", 150 pound repair tech, but at 6'2" and 215 lbs, they work for me. YMWV.

[steven c newman]

Neither a "Hobbit" nor the "wimp" you seem to think me be.....IF you want a job that will leave you sore and aching too much for your heavy, over-weight toys....do as I did, Concrete work. Makes the back and the knees OLD very quickly. Forms, when you have to man-handle 75-100' of wall forms everyday, both setting and stripping them....Bend over tying rebar all day, everyday, year-round. Raking placed concrete, skreeding it to depth, running the bull float. Carrying around 35-80 pounds of tools and parts in your nails bags. Last thing I wanted to do, was handle a bunch of heavy tools when I got home....sometimes after a12-20 hour "day".

If you feel like discriminating against us "wee" folks...take it to some other forum......Maybe Arnold would have the forums you prefer?

My idea of a "Cardio" is raising a large panel with just hand planes...or hand sawing a lot of lumber....

Been building things in wood, and concrete for a LONG time..the wood part since I was a teenager.....was 6'1" back then.....Back troubles has since made that 5'11" now. All that ever effected was how tall the workbenches were.

The OP ( and anyone else) is more than welcome to stop in at my little shop. I'm sure we could find something to do.....Looks do NOT determine how good a woodworker is.....it is the SKILL of that wood worker.....I can just see you telling people like Krenov to lose the weight.....and "work out" more...THAT would be a video worth watching....LOL.

[Patrick Chase]

- Once sharp edges become a routine event for you, avoid the fallacy of believing that the approach that you have mastered is the only approach worth knowing and using.

Seldom have more useful words been spoken :-).

[Pat Barry]

Seldom have more useful words been spoken :-).

And we know that you know this because you have tried them all, right? At the very least, most of them. ;-)

[Todd Stock]

Again...functional strength and stamina versus body sculpting...think ranch hand versus bodybuilder. And your preference is noted on plane weight, but let's not confuse individual preference with everyone's preference. My repair tech def does not like the 4-1/2...I do. She's a lot more comfortable with a 3 and tolerates the LN 4. Nothing wrong with that. Already discussed physiological differences...they are real and need to be accommodated. Aging as well, but that can be 'reversed' or at least delayed with decent diet and conditioning. Injuries go under the accommodation heading.

[Jim Koepke]

Different strokes for different folks.

Some days my enthusiasm is great enough to pick the #8 off the shelf to plane a 3/4" X 3' edge. Some days my butt is dragging to the point of picking up a #5-1/4 to edge join a piece a bit longer.

At times my planing seems to be more in the groove of a #6 for everything from jointing to smoothing. There is very little difference between a #5-1/2 and a #6.

If it is working for you and your projects are working out, it doesn't matter what anyone else thinks.

Just because my world works for me, doesn't mean it is what is best for your world. Many people do very well with only three or four bench planes and one block plane. Some of us want to have 'em all.

Of course there are specific planes best suited for a specific jobs. There is also a bit of overlap and the ability of the user is what is more important.

It seems we have come far afield of the original question of this thread, "best way to sharpen plane irons?"

The answer to the question being there is not one best way to sharpen a plane iron. There are only opinions based on what works best for each of us.

jtk

[Patrick Chase]

And we know that you know this because you have tried them all, right? At the very least, most of them. ;-)

No, I still have a few left to go. I haven't yet manipulated individual atoms along the edge with an AFM, for example.