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Thread: Slot mortiser recomendations

  1. #16
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    Measuring from the reference face on the front




    Measuring from the reference face on the back




    Clean from the front



    Minor chip out exiting the back


    I realize this is poplar, but that's a pretty decent mortise.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  2. #17
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    C'mon Brian, that's a full half a thou difference.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Hennebury View Post
    C'mon Brian, that's a full half a thou difference.
    Time to upgrade.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    Time to upgrade.
    Joking aside; I think that you would find the balestrini mortise machine and the tenoner to your liking.
    I had used the older style machines the model TAO Tenoner and the 2 CAP mortiser.
    The mortiser has a air over oil depth feed control, so it infinitely variable within the range and extremely smooth feed.
    The throw / Stroke is a variable throw crank, again infinitely variable.
    But by far the most impressive is the mechanics of the throw, it being just like a crank and piston in an engine, it is the absolute smooth transition from one direction to the other just like a piston cresting top dead center; once you have seen it you would not go back to a hand operation with hard stops at the end of the stroke. You simple do not get any bit whip, no keyhole effect ever. Plus the table are tiltable. these are seriously nice machines. That can keep tight tolerances. I also played around with different cutter bits and tried a few different ideas. the birdsmouth bits are not a side cutting bit, no relief angle, yet they are use for side cutting.
    The Balestrini tenoner is a brilliant machine; I cut mortise first, then cut tenons to fit, the tenoner is infinitely adjustable in tenon depth, length, width and radius. it has scribing knives and cuts a super clean shoulder, it also has chamfer knives to chamfer the tenon ends, also adjustable for the amount of chamfer. the tables are adjustable and you also has a miter fence so you can do compound tenons for chairs. You can adjust the tenon fit so that its a snug fit on the sides and a couple of thou tighter on the ends or whatever way you want it. They are great machines, and i think that you would really appreciate them. You can get the older ones for a pretty reasonable price and would have to tune them up, but they are industrial grade machines and will last you a lifetime. Once set up in your shop they will expand your horizons, lots of projects would be possible and quite practical to do.

    Repeatable precision;


  5. #20
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    Hi Mark,

    Very much appreciate the recommendation, and detailed description, that sounds exactly what I've been looking for. I'll keep an eye out for such a machine(s) and see if something crops up.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  6. #21
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    I think the Balestrini type tenoner and mortiser are the way to go for furniture and chair work. My setup is great for doors and windows but doing angled tenons for chairs or other furniture parts you can sure see the advantage of a round end tenoner.

  7. #22
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    They look pretty sweet. Can these machines cut double tenons? I am making chairs and furniture, but I dont turn down more generalized work so if doors came my way I would make them as well.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    They look pretty sweet. Can these machines cut double tenons? I am making chairs and furniture, but I dont turn down more generalized work so if doors came my way I would make them as well.
    Brian, they cannot cut double tenons, you would probable have do loose tenons.

  9. #24
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    To be honest, the best setup would be to have Balestrini mortiser and tenoner, A Maka SM6, and a Maka STV, and standard tenoner,(I like the wadkin SET) and round it out with a hollow chisel mortiser, and good set of mortise chisels, Then you pretty well have it covered.

  10. #25
    I don't know, Mark. I think he is going to need a Martin shaper as well to run those big Euro door and sash cutterheads. No point in pinching pennies.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jenness View Post
    I don't know, Mark. I think he is going to need a Martin shaper as well to run those big Euro door and sash cutterheads. No point in pinching pennies.
    I could recommend a few more "absolute necessities" but i didn't want to hit him with everything at once.

  12. #27
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    Haha, you know it’s the direction I’d like to go, so happy to know where I should end up. Very much appreciated!

    My friend send me a link to a Hofmann shaper, absolutely ruined me. Like the first really wonderful Japanese plane, it broadens the horizons in a financially destructive fashion.
    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 04-09-2018 at 7:48 PM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    Haha, you know it’s the direction I’d like to go, so happy to know where I should end up. Very much appreciated!

    My friend send me a link to a Hofmann shaper, absolutely ruined me. Like the first really wonderful Japanese plane, it broadens the horizons in a financially destructive fashion.
    I completely understand, that's how i felt when i got my first wonderful Japanese plane The Shimohira right angle power feed jointer.

    image_65660.jpg

    But then that led to lusting after a Fukami and ..... well lets just say that rabbit hole is real deep.

    image_65659.jpg

  14. #29
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    This thread needs a warning label now.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Hennebury View Post
    I completely understand, that's how i felt when i got my first wonderful Japanese plane The Shimohira right angle power feed jointer.



    But then that led to lusting after a Fukami and ..... well lets just say that rabbit hole is real deep.
    Mark, The Shimohira jointer looks good! Interesting to see the Japanese take on the edging head for the jointer. That was common on jointers in Europe before all the shops went to S4S machines.

    It looks like the side fence and infeed adjustment levers are convenient and robust. That is a weak point of many jointers.

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