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Thread: Scoring question

  1. #1
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    Scoring question

    While I was in the middle of my table saw search I noticed that some of the sliding table saws and high end European saws had a scoring blade. So I am wondering why we don't see more of this and if any of you guys make a scoring cut on plywood and laminated face material before making the actual cut.

    It looks like it would be easy to make a pass at a lower blade level to score the surface then make the final pass with the blade at the correct height.

    Or is a scoring blade more of a gimmick than something practical.

  2. #2
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    It’s practical with melamine. Lots of cabinets are made out of melamine and commercial shops use panel saws with a scoring blade.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marshall K Harrison View Post
    While I was in the middle of my table saw search I noticed that some of the sliding table saws and high end European saws had a scoring blade. So I am wondering why we don't see more of this and if any of you guys make a scoring cut on plywood and laminated face material before making the actual cut.

    It looks like it would be easy to make a pass at a lower blade level to score the surface then make the final pass with the blade at the correct height.

    Or is a scoring blade more of a gimmick than something practical.
    Scoring blades run in the opposite direction of the main blade. That way the tooth makes the cut on the way into the material instead of on the way out. Without a sliding table, it would be very hard to get an accurate scoring cut because of the tolerances involved. Typically the scoring blade is shimmed ~0.1-0.2mm wider than the main blade to compensate for the wobble.

  4. #4
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    The scoring blade should be exactly the same width and position as the main one. Any width variations would have the potential to cause issues with edgeband adhesion.

  5. #5
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    Scoring blades certainly aren't a gimmick, I use mine for all veneered and laminated panels.

    The scoring blade is just a tiny amount wider than the main blade, a few thousandths of an inch, just enough so that the main blade doesn't chip out the lower surface.

    regards, Rod.

  6. #6
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    In addition to the obvious of using my scoring blade for sheet goods, I also occasionally use it with solid stock that's proving to be "ornery" with how the main blade is leaving it on the bottom.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
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    If the fence is set up to cut the panel, why not turn the blade backwards for the scoring cut, then install it correctly for the actual cut. Does a 0.001"-0.002" really make a difference?

    I've used my saw blade backwards in the past when cutting plastics.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al Launier View Post
    If the fence is set up to cut the panel, why not turn the blade backwards for the scoring cut, then install it correctly for the actual cut. Does a 0.001"-0.002" really make a difference?

    I've used my saw blade backwards in the past when cutting plastics.
    Don't think this would gain anything. Blade is still making the cut in the same direction, whereas the scoring blade is traveling in the opposite direction. This would just result in a cut trying to be made with the wrong side of the blade teeth. That can't be good.
    Mike

  9. #9
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    If you've got a good sharp blade, a scoring pass with the blade projecting up 1/4" or so into the workpiece will prevent chipping/splintering. Raise the blade up to full height on the second pass to complete. Anywhere from 60 to 80 tooth ATB or TCG will work fine.

    Please do not put a blade in backwards on a table saw. Small diameter scoring saws turn counter-clockwise, opposite direction of the main blade for a chip-free climb cut.

  10. #10
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    I regularly do the scoring trick when I’m cross-cutting plywood with my conventional tablesaw. I make the first pass with the blade barely exposed, and a second pass to cut the full thickness. Works like a champ. It does require some way to ensure the two passes track. I mostly use my crosscut sled. The rip fence also can do the job.
    Last edited by Jamie Buxton; 04-02-2018 at 6:31 PM.

  11. #11
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    I just know that I'm going to get blasted for this, but I run melamine through my table saw backwards with the blade exposed just enough to score the thin melamine. Then, I raise the blade and cut it normally. With the blade exposed so little, the blade does not pull the sheet away and I get chip-free cuts.
    Grant
    Ottawa ON

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Kelly View Post
    The scoring blade should be exactly the same width and position as the main one. Any width variations would have the potential to cause issues with edgeband adhesion.
    The scoring blade on my MM SC2 is about 3.2mm wide and is adjustable in height as well as lateral movement. This allows the scoring to accommodate different main blade thicknesses and allow a clean scoring cut for slider or fence cuts.

  13. #13
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    Mike, I got an adjustable width scoring blade with my S315WS, but prefer the dead-on 1/8" wide one I got as an alternative that perfectly matches my main blade width. I like having that adjustable one in the cabinet "just in case"!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #14
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    If no scoring is available, a HI AT blade is made to not chip the bottom if the stock is held flat to the table. They dull fairly quickly and are not to be used for much else but veneer panels. Not as efficient but works. A sliding saw for panels should have a scoring blade. Dave

  15. #15
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    Just to clarify–either split or conical style scoring blades should be positioned to the exact width and alignment of the main blade.

    Matched panel sizing blade sets are usually only found on beam saws.

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