Plywood for cabinet boxes

[jim mills]

No matter what wood or finish for kitchen cabinets, I've always used maple ply for my boxes, and hard maple for my drawer boxes. I'm taking on some QSWO A&C cabinets, and all of the sudden wondering if Maple ply is appropriate for the interiors. I've never really given it much thought!?!?
Searching the web, I am finding it almost impossible to find pictures of cabinet interiors, except opened drawers, revealing the typical light wood drawer box. Any thoughts?

[Keith Weber]

I prefer the lighter, maple wood on the interior of dark cabinets. It's just easier to see stuff inside the cabinets.

[Jamie Buxton]

Using a different species for the interior is okay. Maple coats less than quartersawn white oak, so that’s good. But often it is convenient to use just one species. You get to cut exterior parts and interior parts from the same sheets. And there’s no games to play to avoid seeing oak on inside where you must use oak on the outside — for instance on exposed sides of uppers.

[jim mills]

Thanks for the ideas. I was just browsing and realized that an upper with glass in the doors, a matching interior would be appropriate. Especially shelves, where the edge would be highly visible. On the other hand, it might seem odd to open an adjacent cabinet with a solid wood door to find a maple shelf.

[johnny means]

Personally, I think MCP is the best option for cabinet boxes hands down. That being said, I see maple interiors is pretty much the standard, even in million dollar homes. I think the lighter interiors feel cleaner and more appropriate than a dark hole.

[larry senen]

I have used prefinished maple ply for cases, it's lighter in weight and more water resistant than melamine on particle board

[Jay Jolliffe]

Just about all the cabinets I've make I use Birch plywood....Light side shows on the interior...Side panels I use what ever wood is for the doors & drawer fronts. I found it faster & cheaper to have someone else make the drawers...Nice maple all bored, notched for the slides. Sprayed lacquer also...Where I live I haven't come across Maple plywood..Just birch or special order species...

[Jim Becker]

I've moved to using pre-finished plywood to satisfy the interior situation and from my supplier, it's most often maple. For this application, it's almost a "goes with anything" type situation, IMHO.

[Peter Kelly]

White melamine boxes, tape the front facing edges to match the doors.

[Martin Wasner]

I use birch plywood for our interiors and solid birch for our drawers.

We used to use maple, but the birch drawers machine much better and birch sands easier all around. I don't think there's any advantage other than that.

I also like using Baltic Birch for backs and drawer bottoms. The 5x5's work out well for size in both applications. I buy 4x8's in half inch for wall cabinets and some talls

[Erik Christensen]

I can usually find nice quarter-sawn veneer in cabinet grade 1/2 (drawer bottoms) and 3/4 (cabinet boxes) locally that matches the wood I am using (walnut, oak, maple, or cherry) for the project. I like the matching color/species/finish and don't care about cost as I make it for myself & not to make a profit.

[Andrew Seemann]

We have kitchen cabinets that have interiors of oak with a dark stain on them that we greatly dislike specifically because it makes the insides difficult to see. That and they are ugly. One of these years I need to replace them.

[Mel Fulks]

Andrew, don't forget that sometimes you can paint them. But ONLY at certain times! Consult a kitchen scientist for details!

[Andrew Seemann]

The outside of the cabinets were painted white by the previous owner. Though not great, it at least makes the kitchen itself brighter. Though I could paint the dark interior, I figure I will replace them sooner the more I dislike them

[David Zaret]

specifically, my go-to is columbia prefinished maple, VC. i buy G2S because for the few bucks extra, it's worth the option to choose my show face. great product.