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Thread: Windex with water stones?

  1. #16
    I did get the idea of using window cleaner on my diamond plates from Sellers. Tried it, and I like the feel, which gives for lack of a better term, I bit of resistance to the push of the blade, and makes the edge feel like it is sticking more solidly to the surface. IME it also tends to get rid of the swarf much more readily than water, and keeps the diamond plate cleaner longer.
    As far as water stones, no, he does not as far as I know use it with them. If you read my original post, I was asking because if I want to continue to use it on my diamond hones, that means I'll have to take both water and window cleaner out to the bench with me when I work. I work outside, and tote my tools from the house to the bench. One less thing to carry is always nice in that regard.
    It makes no difference in the edge, so I could technically stick to just water, if I wanted to.

  2. #17
    Mike,

    Please make sure your window cleaner product does not contain vinegar or EDTA... Quite a few do because these chemicals clean stuff quite well.. Unfortunately - both vinegar and EDTA will slowly dissolve the plating on the diamond stones which retains the diamonds... "Normal" window cleaner which is a mixture of water, alcohol, and a bit of soap/wetting agent + blue dye won't attack the plating...

    And I would not let any cleaning products which contain either vinegar or EDTA anywhere near a water stone.. Very likely to attack/dissolve the binders...

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by John C Cox View Post
    Mike,

    Please make sure your window cleaner product does not contain vinegar or EDTA... Quite a few do because these chemicals clean stuff quite well.. Unfortunately - both vinegar and EDTA will slowly dissolve the plating on the diamond stones which retains the diamonds... "Normal" window cleaner which is a mixture of water, alcohol, and a bit of soap/wetting agent + blue dye won't attack the plating...

    And I would not let any cleaning products which contain either vinegar or EDTA anywhere near a water stone.. Very likely to attack/dissolve the binders...
    Will do. Thanks, John.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Baker 2 View Post
    Thanks, gentlemen.
    Stanley, I have some borax here somewhere. Might try that. Would you happen to have a guess at the ratio borax/water? If not, I can experiment.
    As for friction, or lack of, I've not had any issues, and I like the feel on the plate, particularly the glass cleaner. I just don't want to somehow cause an issue with my water stone.
    Mike

    I have never measured the concentration. I keep mine in a plastic wash bottle ( the kind with the plastic looped tube), and add borax or washing Soda to the water a little at a time until it will no longer dissolve. Supersaturated.

    I use this on water stones and diamond plates. It can leave a whitish ring on the stones when dry, but this has never harmed the stones or negatively affected sharpening.

    I wish I could say I invented the idea, but I learned it from professional sharpeners (you know, the guys with soggy fingers).

    I also use distilled water instead of tap water because all tap water in modern countries contains chlorine, which is a powerful oxidizer, and accumulates in closed containers. Swords are very expensive, and even a bit of chlorine that finds its way into the blades pores can cause corrosion. Belt, suspenders, and carbon fiber cup.

  5. #20
    Thank you, Stanley. Much appreciated.

  6. #21
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    I use plain water from a squirt bottle on my Shapton Pros.

    I tend to kerosene on my diamond plates - it keeps them clean and rust free. The one exception to that is my DiaFlat lapping plate. I lubricate it with water only because it is used to true my waterstones. When I'm finished with it, I give it a drop of camilia oil.

    TedP

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Mooney View Post
    Maybe this will help (err, you likely know all this .. but context): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wetting

    Basically the idea is to improve the wetting characteristics. The problem is either hydrophobic elements in the stone or transference of hydrophobic elements from the tool to the stone. That can reduce the wetting solutions ability to remove swarf. How much of a problem this all is .. I dunno. It does seem like a little something to lower the surface tension helps a smidge.
    I can understand why high wettability would be of benefit with a diamond plate. In fact it can be essential for flattening wide irons, which tend to "float" above the diamonds when pure water is used as the lubricant. When I use diamond plates for that I used a diamond extender (originally made for use with compounds and slurries) that's mostly Naptha to lubricate them FWIW.

    What I don't understand is why increased wettability would do anything worthwhile for a waterstone.

    As others have said you need to understand the binder type of your stones (clay, resin, magnesia, ceramic, etc) and any resulting chemical [in]compatibilities before you go down this road. You also need to consider volatility and its impact on drying rates and heat transfer. Some magnesia stones are known to craze/crack when they dry out too quickly or are subjected to overly rapid thermal cycling, so I'd be careful using anything that evaporates faster than plain water with those.

    Soap is probably a safe choice with most if not all waterstones.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by John C Cox View Post
    Please make sure your window cleaner product does not contain vinegar or EDTA... Quite a few do because these chemicals clean stuff quite well.. Unfortunately - both vinegar and EDTA will slowly dissolve the plating on the diamond stones which retains the diamonds... "Normal" window cleaner which is a mixture of water, alcohol, and a bit of soap/wetting agent + blue dye won't attack the plating...
    Yeah, I was sort of wondering about that.

    The binder on almost all diamond plates is electroplated nickel. Vinegar and EDTA will both attack it to some degree. I'm not sure if it's fast enough to matter, but I wouldn't risk a "good" plate to find out (and the Naptha-based extender that I use clears swarf magnificently).

  9. #24
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    Hasn't been a concern. Have been using Sellers method since first seeing on Utube. It has worked very well for me, both fast and sharper than any other system I've tried. The Windex isn't anything I've been concerned with and after a good two or three years, I haven't notice a derogation of my diamond stones. Simply wipe them down before covering them up.

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