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Thread: Small box hinges...what type do you use?

  1. #1
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    Small box hinges...what type do you use?

    First time putting hinges on a box. Looking for something to mortise into the top and bottom. The box I’m working on is 7”x11”, 1/2” thick sides.

    I like the stop hinges that will open the lid to 95 degrees, but the part that will be visible from the back seems a bit clunky (at least from what I see from Brusso). The standard butt hinges have a more decorative hinge pin but I assume open to 180 degrees and it seems if the lid is a little heavy could tilt the box back? I don’t know, maybe I’m over thinking this...

    Are there more decorative stop hinges than what Brusso offers? What do you use?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Check out the "SmartHinge" By Andrew Crawford

    http://www.smartboxmaker.com/product...es-locks-keys/
    Last edited by richard poitras; 03-27-2018 at 6:43 PM.
    Richard Poitras
    Central, Michigan....
    01-02-2006


  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Mueller View Post
    First time putting hinges on a box. Looking for something to mortise into the top and bottom. The box I’m working on is 7”x11”, 1/2” thick sides.

    I like the stop hinges that will open the lid to 95 degrees, but the part that will be visible from the back seems a bit clunky (at least from what I see from Brusso). The standard butt hinges have a more decorative hinge pin but I assume open to 180 degrees and it seems if the lid is a little heavy could tilt the box back? I don’t know, maybe I’m over thinking this...

    Are there more decorative stop hinges than what Brusso offers? What do you use?

    Thanks!
    Brusso quadrant hinges or use a brusso lid stay with their butt hinges.

  4. #4
    Quadrant hinges are much more difficult to set than standard hinges. The Brusso stop hinges - JB-102 or JB-103 - are excellent. The JB-102 would probably work for you. The JB-103 is just a bit bigger.

    Brusso hinges are expensive - the JB-102 is about $26 for two - but they look good, they work well, and they're not too difficult to set.

    Mike

    [You set the Brusso hinge "inside". The only thing that shows on the back is the pin. You only see the hinges when you open the box. Funny story - I teach a jewelry box making class and I use the JB-102 hinges. In class, I demonstrate how to set the hinges and then the students go at it. When I went to check their work, one guy was setting them on the back of the box instead of inside. We were able to glue two patches on the box to fix his error and people don't look at the back of a box that often.]
    Last edited by Mike Henderson; 03-27-2018 at 2:08 PM.
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  5. #5
    Rockler and Woodcraft both sell a small stop hinge, comes in several colors and sizes.
    It is not really comparable to the Brusso hinge, but I think the Brusso is clunky looking too.
    I have mostly made wooden hinges for my small boxes because of the limited selection of stop hinges.

  6. #6
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    Thanks all! Mike, I went through the tutorial on your website on building a box and found the hinge setting part very helpful! I happen to have a set of Brusso JB103s, so will likely use those.

  7. #7
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    Is there a US distributor(s) for "Smart Hinge"?? I cannot find one via Google, etc.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Newman View Post
    Is there a US distributor(s) for "Smart Hinge"?? I cannot find one via Google, etc.
    Brusso makes hinges like the "smart hinge". And Lee Valley carried some like that - I bought some from them years ago. I don't know if they still carry them. I find setting those more difficult than setting the Brusso stop hinges. I suppose you could rig up a jig and use a router, but for one box that would be a lot of work.

    It's really easy to set the Brusso stop hinges and that's why I use them in my box class.

    I think they're called "side rail hinges". At least I think that's the same as the "smart hinge".

    Mike
    Last edited by Mike Henderson; 03-27-2018 at 8:04 PM.
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  9. #9
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    Mike, have you ever used the templates Brusso sells for their hinges?

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Decker View Post
    Mike, have you ever used the templates Brusso sells for their hinges?
    No, I've always done them by hand. For quadrant hinges I use a drill press to drill out the space for the curved bar (called a "stop", I believe), but beyond that it's generally all by hand.

    For the curved front of a quadrant hinge or a side rail hinge, I use a carving gouge of the proper sweep, or a Forstner bit of the proper radius (in my drill press).

    Mike

    [I did a tutorial on installing a quadrant hinge mostly by hand here. I do use a drill press. One reason I don't like quadrant hinges and side rail hinges is that it's difficult to correct them if the lid doesn't fit exactly right. With the stop mortise hinges, I stick a toothpick (a round toothpick of the correct size) in the screw holes (with glue) and then reset them, adjusted a small amount (after the glue sets). It's amazing what a difference moving one hinge by just a small amount can do to the fit. It's not difficult to figure out what movement is necessary to improve the fit of the lid.
    The other reason I don't like quadrant hinges and side rail hinges is that making the hinge mortise is more difficult than for a stop hinge.]
    Last edited by Mike Henderson; 03-28-2018 at 10:39 AM.
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  11. #11
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    Mike, one more question, if you don’t mind. You mentioned in your tutorial the “stand off distance” . So do you normally make the bottom mortise deeper?

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Mueller View Post
    Mike, one more question, if you don’t mind. You mentioned in your tutorial the “stand off distance” . So do you normally make the bottom mortise deeper?
    I try to equalize that extra distance between the top and bottom but it's pretty small so if you put it all in the bottom, people probably wouldn't notice.

    For those who might wonder what "stand off distance" is, when you fold a hinge together, and have the two leaves parallel, there's usually a small gap between the two leaves. If you set the hinges flush with the wood, that distance will be a gap between the top and bottom at the rear of the box. Most people won't notice that, but if you want a smaller gap at the back, you can inset the hinges a bit, half that distance at the top and half at the bottom. Be careful not to overdo it or your top and bottom will hit and the box won't close properly in the front.

    At least, I think that's what I meant by "stand off distance". If it's something else, let me know, Phil.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Newman View Post
    Is there a US distributor(s) for "Smart Hinge"?? I cannot find one via Google, etc.
    Ray no there is not, you only can get them direct from Smart Hinge
    Richard Poitras
    Central, Michigan....
    01-02-2006


  14. #14
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    Yes, Mike, that is how you defined it in your tutorial. Thank you again.

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