Need Help Thinning General Finishes Color and Top Coats

[Wayne Lomman]

David, I haven't said anything prior to this as the product brands being discussed are different to what is available to me. What I do wonder is why you have changed so much from your automotive work? I use the same gravity and suction guns for all my work whether timber, machinery, automotive etc. I am used to them and I know what they can do. Also don't forget that most of your auto finishes work just as well on timber and as you know, they lay down extremely well without all the grief discussed above. Cheers

[John Kee]

David I've been spraying WB finishes for about 12 years now and gone through many trials and tribulations to find what works for me. When I started there weren't many quality WB finishes but thats been changing. The one constant has been that if the stuff is sold off the shelf at a Borg or local paint store its typically what I call house paint, its too thick to be thinned properly and designed to be applied by brush or roller. Its good for drywall and trim but really lacks for high quality cabinet/furniture work. Always read the the TDS info and you've got a good reasonable start if it's recommended for spray only. When using opaques always check for the manufacturer for the appropriate primer designed to work with the product you want to spray. Many primers such as the Zinsser primers a generic in nature, while recommended by many, they may not be the best start. Never spray a hard finish over a soft primer and expect great long term results especially in the durability deptmart.

[Patrick Chase]

I did a lil more EXACT" experimenting and testing yesterday. I used exactly 10% water and got my BM advance to 135 seconds with a 1.3 N/N. It did spray and lay down nice on my test pieces. I continue to test readily available products, but I think as John Kee says I believe I am trying to spray the wrong stuff. My local paint store carries only BM products-that being said I did have them order me some Duralac Waterborne to try. They stock the solvent borne versions and of course tried to steer me in that direction, but I am wanting to stay working in the basement workshop.... I am sure by now you must be thinking I am total donkey, but I do sincerely appreciate all the tips and advice you and others have offered on this thread. Thanks again!

At this point your best bet may be to order a water-base clear that is known to spray well. That will at least give you a reference point for what's possible, so you can decide whether it's worth your time to continue mucking with Advance.

If you want a water-white poly then Target em9000 is what I would personally use (or em6000 if I want a "lacquer look"). I sort of fell into Target's system by reading a few recommendations too many, but there are other equally good options out there.

[David Ruhland]

David, I haven't said anything prior to this as the product brands being discussed are different to what is available to me. What I do wonder is why you have changed so much from your automotive work? I use the same gravity and suction guns for all my work whether timber, machinery, automotive etc. I am used to them and I know what they can do. Also don't forget that most of your auto finishes work just as well on timber and as you know, they lay down extremely well without all the grief discussed above. Cheers

WAyne...

I have been wanting to learn and switch to the HVLP and waterborne for awhile. I still find myself picking up the compressor gun every now and then...

[John Kee]

David not much difference between a conventional compressor gun and and a HVLP compressor gun. The compressor HVLP just allows for a broader range of adjustments but also allows you to be HVLP compliant if needed. Also much easier to spray a broader range of viscosities. Turbine HVLP is a different system because of the limited pressure the turbine can develope.

[Patrick Chase]

David not much difference between a conventional compressor gun and and a HVLP compressor gun. The compressor HVLP just allows for a broader range of adjustments but also allows you to be HVLP compliant if needed. Also much easier to spray a broader range of viscosities. Turbine HVLP is a different system because of the limited pressure the turbine can develope.

HVLP guns (compressor or turbine) typically have different nozzle patterns in the cap than conventional ones, to ensure adequate atomization at lower pressure. In particular the LP guns usually have air nozzles closer to the fluid nozzle on each side.