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Thread: Best way to put the "rough sawn" back onto a smoothed board?

  1. If you want to approximate mechanical saw mill marks I have done this somewhat successfully using a variable speed angle grinder on its lowest speed with a coarse flap disc. It takes some practice to get the sweep consistent.

    For rustic work I prefer to use a jack plane or scrub plane.

  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Fournier View Post
    Dress a handplane blade to get an attractive profile and use the plane to create a rough planed look for a "have your cake and eat it too" outcome.
    Could you do that with a quality paint scraper? File in some dips and sharp point like spots? Seems cheaper than messing with a nice plane.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Duvall, WA
    Posts
    706
    It looks like I came late to the party and you've already found a solution that worked for you. Turns out, that's the same solution I used for my barnwood bed project that I finished earlier this year. I started with red oak and used a slightly loose bandsaw blade to create the roughsawn look of pallet wood, then used a combination of three different stains to achieve a worn and weathered look.
    Last edited by Mike Ontko; 02-28-2019 at 9:00 AM.

  4. #34
    Looks like several hit on the same idea I had for bandsawn face. I did a ceiling in client's house in weathered t&g alder.

    The jig
    P1020246 65%.jpg

    P1020243 65%.jpg

    The look after skimming face
    P1020239 65%.jpg


    Weathered and not
    P1020240 65%.jpg


    In process
    P1020315 65%.jpg


    Complete

    P1020385 65%.jpg

    P1020384 65%.jpg

  5. #35
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    2,162
    O.K. Peter please enlighten me,what did you use to "weather " the wood ?

  6. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Kees View Post
    O.K. Peter please enlighten me,what did you use to "weather " the wood ?
    Well Mike, I used Weatherwood, of course. Seemed appropriate...

    https://www.weatherwoodstains.com/


    Interesting stuff. It reacts with tannins and works differently than typical stains. I've sampled it on a number of hardwoods. White oak is pretty neat, gets very dark. The alder shown is one of the coolest looking IMHO. And as a side benefit, I can buy knotty alder almost as cheap as poplar. The $$ came in processing and I paid for the install with a really sore neck and shoulders from working over my head. was installed just like a hardwood floor.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    2,162
    Thanks,Peter. This is a new product to me. Really like how it worked in your pictures. That job is real good looking to.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Mountain Home, AR
    Posts
    547
    If the rough lumber already has the look you want and is reasonably straight you could resaw off the rough face, size your lumber, then laminate it back on. For wiggly boards a simple frame or just a straight 2x6 screwed to the back side could straighten it enough to make it worth your time.

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