Finishing strategy for garden labels

[Keith Downing]

My fiance makes some beautiful laser cut garden labels out of painted baltic birch plywood. They have a roughly 6" point that goes down into the dirt, and then a decorative end that stays above ground but is still exposed to the elements. I've warned her that most likely they will not hold up to actual use in a garden for more than a short period of time.

That said though, what's the best product to use to give it a chance to last awhile?

I'd prefer to use something that can be sprayed. I do realize though the "stake" portion (that goes into the ground) may ultimately have to be handled differently with something like an epoxy coating if we want it to last.

I'm willing to do some testing, but I'm not even sure what strategy to start with.

[Keith Downing]

Any suggestions at all? I know some of you guys must have some strategies for fighting moisture exposure.

[Carlos Alvarez]

Killz will make it pretty much last forever. Coating them in epoxy then painting will make them last forever literally. It becomes effectively plastic then. If they are painted anyway, why not just cut them from plastic?

The part in the dirt will be the first to go of course, but either Killz or epoxy should really add longevity. I've put Killz on MDF left outdoors and it worked for years.

[Carlos Alvarez]

Also, we just did a raised garden bed, and needed to paint the wall that the dirt goes against. I spoke to an actual PPG rep about it. He said their product that competes with Killz, or Killz itself, would both protect the wall for decades and be completely waterproof.

[Jim Becker]

Coat the stake part with epoxy first and then use an exterior oil based clear finish for the rest. They will not last forever and will certainly show the aging grays with exposure, even with UV resistance in the finish, over time.

[Carlos Alvarez]

Jim, he said she's painting them anyway, so the clear finish isn't necessary. A primer with an exterior paint over it will last forever.

[Keith Downing]

Jim, he said she's painting them anyway, so the clear finish isn't necessary. A primer with an exterior paint over it will last forever.

Thanks guys!

To clarify, they are laser cut so the surfaces are painted but the edges are not. I suppose we could simply killz the edges and paint them black after they are cut; but that would add two more steps to the process.

Either way though, I didn't realize killz had that level of water resistance so that's good to know for future reference regardless!

[Keith Downing]

Coat the stake part with epoxy first and then use an exterior oil based clear finish for the rest. They will not last forever and will certainly show the aging grays with exposure, even with UV resistance in the finish, over time.

Jim, what's your preferred exterior oil based finish for a job like this. I've used the General Finishes water based stuff and love it. Do they offer a similar oil based product? Or is there something else that's better?

[Carlos Alvarez]

Oh, I didn't realize they started painted, then were cut. So again...why not just go to all plastic?

Killz is miracle stuff. The oil-based version will be totally waterproof for decades. So very useful.

Here's my dust collector shed...IMG_1049.jpg

[Jim Becker]

Jim, what's your preferred exterior oil based finish for a job like this. I've used the General Finishes water based stuff and love it. Do they offer a similar oil based product? Or is there something else that's better?

Honestly, I don't have one because I don't use oil based products for the most part. But I'd likely just pick up whatever's locally available from SW for something like this.

[Prashun Patel]

I wouldn’t stick anything with varnish into the soil. Ymmv, but for my money it’s probably bad for the plants, and I have yet to see a finish - even epoxy - that can withstand ground submersion and intentional, repeated soaking.

Second, no protectant will save the glue between the plies from delaminating with enough humidity and temperature change.

This is not to say you won’t get lucky based on the weather and the amount of sun it gets, but personally, I would shoot it with shellac and take the stakes out as soon as you don’t require them for marking. Minimizing their use gives the best chance at preservation.

Going forward, consider using a solid wood that has good resistance naturally such as mahogany or white oak. I use both as my garden stakes. Uncoated. Mine last about 4-5 seasons. Ymmv

[Keith Downing]

Oh, I didn't realize they started painted, then were cut. So again...why not just go to all plastic?

Killz is miracle stuff. The oil-based version will be totally waterproof for decades. So very useful.

Here's my dust collector shed...IMG_1049.jpg

We've discussed doing a plastic tip that fits into the top, but it's a more complicated design to deal with that way.

The top has a decorative paint job and is cut out in shapes (such as a butterfly) and looks really good with the wooden edge; I don't think we'd be able to recreate the look out of plastic.

[Keith Downing]

Going forward, consider using a solid wood that has good resistance naturally such as mahogany or white oak. I use both as my garden stakes. Uncoated. Mine last about 4-5 seasons. Ymmv

This is probably a really good strategy I hadn't considered. What would you finish those with to extend their life?

[Carlos Alvarez]

We've discussed doing a plastic tip that fits into the top, but it's a more complicated design to deal with that way.

The top has a decorative paint job and is cut out in shapes (such as a butterfly) and looks really good with the wooden edge; I don't think we'd be able to recreate the look out of plastic.

Gotcha. I was picturing it differently. Well epoxy would be clear, and literally last forever. Could be dipped or sprayed.

[Prashun Patel]

I don’t. Everything goes to grey. The spear tips wear and go quicker. I cut off the ends and they’re passable for even longer.